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Bad Door Lock Actuators?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Blake, Jan 15, 2012.

  1. May 16, 2013 at 3:54 PM
    #61
    EvilBetty

    EvilBetty Well-Known Member

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    I used to run electric R/C cars. Those motors where rebuildable until you toasted the armature, which are of similar design.

    How did the brushes look in yours? Did you take pics?
     
  2. May 16, 2013 at 5:40 PM
    #62
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    Everything looked fine, I cleaned it out really well with CRC Electrical cleaner and put everything back together. I can take them back apart and take pictures if you think it'll come back to life. It will move the lever a bit, just won't actually cycle the lock. I took it apart a second time to make sure I had everything inside the actuator assembled correctly and nothing was catching. I also checked the cables to make sure they were moving freely within the casings.

    What's involved in a 'rebuild' of one of these electric motors? Better yet, do you know where I can find just a new motor with the correct output shaft?
     
  3. May 16, 2013 at 6:10 PM
    #63
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    Glad I found this. My driver door unit shit the bed a couple weeks ago. I know what I'm doing this Saturday...

    Good news: Already have some contact cleaner, so no need to buy!
     
  4. May 16, 2013 at 7:55 PM
    #64
    EvilBetty

    EvilBetty Well-Known Member

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    I meant to write down the number on the motor case and look for a source but forgot until after I had it back in the door.

    I didn't pay attention to how servicable the motor was when I had it apart.

    R/C motors are a bit more user friendly.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8nCM9yuI-4
     
  5. May 17, 2013 at 5:26 AM
    #65
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    Yeah, the Toyota motors are a more of a pain to service. The brushes on the actuator motor are like 1/4 the size of the ones in your video, they're tiny! When I get mine apart again, I'll get the part number on the motor. I did find a motor with the same part number, looked the same and everything, but the output shaft was different. The output shaft on the motor I bought was round, the one on the Toyota motor is a half circle so the screw gear will slide onto the shaft.
     
  6. May 28, 2013 at 2:38 PM
    #66
    kwade

    kwade Member

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    here
    Mine said
     
  7. Jun 20, 2013 at 5:52 PM
    #67
    V-TRAIN

    V-TRAIN Well-Known Member

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    ref. my rear ones went out tonight. sucks cause I take the kid to daycare and have to get back there alot.
     
  8. Jun 30, 2013 at 4:07 PM
    #68
    ktsmit

    ktsmit New Member

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    This was awesome! Just repaired both driver and passenger side actuators. The dealer quoted me $500/door to replace them! THANKS!
     
  9. Aug 4, 2013 at 1:24 PM
    #69
    Pannell_Trd

    Pannell_Trd Well-Known Member

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    anyone have a picture of the inside of the rear actuators?
     
  10. Sep 2, 2013 at 12:45 PM
    #70
    two taco

    two taco Member

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    Just finished passenger door on 06. Working great. Thanks for the info!
     
  11. Sep 22, 2013 at 9:21 AM
    #71
    Josh S

    Josh S New Member

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    Great thread. Awesome site! Saved me a $1000.
     
  12. Dec 3, 2013 at 8:13 AM
    #72
    Networktcp

    Networktcp New Member

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    I had this issue with my driver-side door last year and eventually found this thread. Opened the actuator as described and decided to test the motor before opening the motor itself. Removed the motor and attached it to a 9v battery. It spun freely. I put it back into the assembly and attached the 9v battery wires, switched polarity and again it worked in both directions.
    Reinstalled the actuator in the truck and it worked fine for the next 11 months.
    The problem resurfaced 2 months ago and last week it suddenly started working, first intermittently then constantly without any intervention ( I can still hear the motor struggle).
    Now the issue has surfaced on the driver rear door (intermittently).

    This leads me to question whether the motor is receiving 12v power or less (if my 9v worked without issue).
    Did the 9v power grind through the carbon buildup?

    Truly disappointing that I may eventually have to tear into the vapor barrier on all my doors.
     
  13. Dec 4, 2013 at 3:40 AM
    #73
    kwade

    kwade Member

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    My first guess was that under normal usage the motor is NOT on long enough to allow the brushes to sufficiently 'clean' the commutator bars.
    Eventually, the small amounts of comm-bar burning (carbon deposit) accumulates and the connection between brush and comm-bar is compromised.

    So much for using a motor where a simple solenoid would work!

    Yes, I would think so.
    The motor on-time with the 9v applied was enough to allow the brushes to 'scour' the carbon from the comm-bars.

    I tried to cut the soft-set adhesive, leaving a bit on the door and a bit on the barrier film and used it as a template for reattaching the barrier.
     
  14. Dec 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM
    #74
    EvilBetty

    EvilBetty Well-Known Member

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    When I put mine back together, I must have put let some of the white levers in the housing slip. Now I have a door that can't "sense" when it's locked or not.

    Every time I close my door with the key in the ignition, the door does a double unlock. Also my lights only flash when the passenger door is unlocked, not the driver.

    Haven't felt like tearing it all back apart again to check. The worst part was getting into that housing without breaking anything. Wish someone who is good at it would post a good video on opening and closing the housing.
     
  15. Dec 12, 2013 at 2:59 PM
    #75
    AbunaiXR

    AbunaiXR Active Member

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    good thing i read this before buying those motors on ebay. what if you were to try and shave the shaft down to a half circle? possible?

    Also did you attempt to see if the motor itself worked granted you were somehow able to get the gear on?
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2013
  16. Dec 24, 2013 at 9:56 PM
    #76
    eskamo23

    eskamo23 Well-Known Member

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    Well my drivers side front door actuator just went out on me. Only 48,000 miles on my 2010 taco. I also had my blower motor changed out 2 times by the dealer and the radio changed out once. I love my truck but these ticky tacky things are bs. I never had any problems with my 2003. I had 80k on that baby before I sold it. Thanks for all the info peeps have posted on this subject, I'll be looking into fixing this issue after Christmas! Merry Christmas everyone!
     
  17. Dec 25, 2013 at 9:23 AM
    #77
    kwade

    kwade Member

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    Sounds like the bean counters have conquered engineering!
    I cannot say that I dislike my taco, but I NEVER had any trouble (other than self-inflicted) with the other toyos that I have owned!
     
  18. Feb 3, 2014 at 12:45 PM
    #78
    taco084gb

    taco084gb No matter where you go there you are.

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    Awesome. I just completed this project today on both passenger and driver doors and back in locking business with the remote door switch. Thanx to snektaco.
     
  19. Feb 3, 2014 at 12:56 PM
    #79
    medic2230

    medic2230 Ditch Doctor

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    Haven't had this problem with the Taco but it happened on the 05 4runner. Toyota replaced all of the actuators and it was covered under the 100,000 mile warranty for $50 deductible. That was $800 saved.
     
  20. Feb 22, 2014 at 5:24 PM
    #80
    Ricks2013

    Ricks2013 WFO

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    I've got 25k miles on mine and just in the last 3 weeks the front drivers side door has been acting up. Thought it was remote so i swapped remotes and same thing. When i click the remote twice the rear doors lock with remote but not drivers door. But It sounds like it locks because I can hear it click just like the others. Also the dome light comes on right after i try to lock them with remote (i guess letting me know that the door isn't locked)? I think i should be able to get it taken care of under warranty.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2014
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