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bad idle and no power?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 06yfz450ridr, Mar 16, 2012.

  1. Mar 16, 2012 at 9:43 AM
    #1
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    hey guys i have a 1997 tacoma 2.7 and a few months back i got a rough idle and no power. changed the fuel filter and checked the iac and changed the plugs and changed the tps and nothing. could my injectors be clogged? ive run seafoam through the brake booster and gas and still nothing. Ive also noticed im going through a lot more gas. i mean very bad and the plugs seem pretty black. it seems its running rich. so possibly my cats clogged? im going to school now and the gas is killing me i literally drive 20 miles to school and back and waist a half a tank.
     
  2. Mar 16, 2012 at 10:14 PM
    #2
    TacomaJPP

    TacomaJPP To secure peace, is to prepare for war

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    Did your truck throw any codes?

    How many miles do you have on the truck?
     
  3. Mar 17, 2012 at 8:16 PM
    #3
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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  4. Mar 17, 2012 at 8:18 PM
    #4
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    130000 and no codes. Did throw a mass air flow sensor and iac a while back but cleaned both and reset it and nothing ever came back
     
  5. Mar 17, 2012 at 8:20 PM
    #5
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Btw i meant to say 20 miles one way to school and 20 back
     
  6. Mar 17, 2012 at 8:21 PM
    #6
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes i do ive noticed that but ive sprayed all the lines and dont see any bubbles which vacuum was bad it seems like the hissing is on the drivers side
     
  7. Mar 17, 2012 at 8:30 PM
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    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I tried it with a little soap and water. Thanks for your help ill be checking it out in the am
     
  8. Mar 18, 2012 at 8:19 AM
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    watacomaguy

    watacomaguy Active Member

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    Clear the codes and then pull a few days later. See if they are back. The codes were probably pointing you in the right direction.
     
  9. Mar 21, 2012 at 5:03 AM
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    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    havent had any codes after i cleaned everything and reset it unless its because i used the tool to clear the codes manually as well
     
  10. Mar 21, 2012 at 5:32 AM
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    Squisha

    Squisha Well-Known Member

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    This. Once again.

    You can't use soap and water. First inspect all the vacuum lines for cracks. Replace anything that doesn't look healthy (my bet is that will be most of them).

    Then check for leaks with starting fluid. With the engine running, spray at the connections. If there's an increase in RPM's, there's your leak.
     
  11. Mar 21, 2012 at 6:20 PM
    #11
    natemoore2088

    natemoore2088 Well-Known Member

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    If you're vacuum lines all check out then my guess is the EGR. I had the same problem, pulled the egr and sprayed some carb cleaner in it and used my mouth to actuate the valve until it felt a little easier. This fixed it. But an egr usually throws a code unless it is very mild.
     
  12. Mar 27, 2012 at 4:41 AM
    #12
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    my dad was saying to spray them with starting fluid etc. and i was checking the egr lines and they seemed fine guess im going to have to spray them with that.

    this is just so annoying i have to go 80 to keep about the same speed up hills if not it drops like 15 mph floored then i have to downshift just to barely increase my speed. never did this before
     
  13. Mar 27, 2012 at 10:04 AM
    #13
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Bad cylinder maybe? Have you done a compression check?

    Could also be the EGR valve stuck open, creating a huge
    vacuum leak.
     
  14. Mar 27, 2012 at 10:47 AM
    #14
    BeerHat

    BeerHat Got Beer?

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    The fact that the plugs are black to me suggests it is not a vacuum leak. Though it is an easy check, might as well look.

    Does the engine stumble as you accelerate or just doesn't feel like it has any power? If no power, do a compression/leak down. If the compression is low, try adding a little bit of oil then retest. If compression goes up, your rings are suspect, otherwise valves maybe sticking(possible) or worn out. If you rev it to 2-3k rpms and hold it for 10 secs and it stumbles bad, then it strongly points to either vacuum or fuel.

    I'd rule out some other things first as well....bad o2 sensor, exhaust leaks, reading of fuel trims (short and long term) will help. If the o2 is not reading correctly or there is an exhaust leak in front of it, it can mess with it reading, thinking the engine is running lean therefore dumping more fuel to compensate only to have the engine choke on fuel and yield bad performance and excessive gas consumption

    An injector sticking could also be suspect. I think Seafoam is more maintenance than a fix for an injector. I would take them off and send them to get cleaned/rebuilt. Witchhunter.com is where I have had mine done several times. Fast and is reasonable. I like the fact that they give you before/after results. But if there is a local guy in town, try him if this is your daily driver.
     
  15. Jul 19, 2012 at 8:50 PM
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    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok guys still need to check some more stuff on this its been a while and seems to be getting a little worse. The compression is perfect on this @ 165 psi. Throttle bottle was cleaned new plugs . From the auto shop at my school said it could either be a bad fuel pump/ low fuel pressure or the cat is clogged. It kind of sucks theres no port to test the fuel pressure on this year it needs to be rigged up to test it. Another thing is i still have the original factory wires from 1996 on my 97 tacoma. Could it just be bad coil packs and plug wires . The wires do not arc at night etc when sprayed with water but it doesnt mean they are not bad. I may just need to bring it to toyota . I dont want to buy parts i dont have to but to mean it does seem like its running rich due to the power reason snd not wanting to rev. I just ordered one of those bluetooth obd2 scanners to record data so maybe that will help narrow things down
     
  16. Jul 19, 2012 at 8:52 PM
    #16
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also checked for air leaks with some carb cleaner i believe and no idle change
     
  17. Jul 19, 2012 at 10:49 PM
    #17
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Plugged air filter or intake tube?
     
  18. Jul 20, 2012 at 6:40 AM
    #18
    06yfz450ridr

    06yfz450ridr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Intake and filter are all good. The first code i ever got twice was a maf sensor code but I sprayed in with maf cleaner and cleared the code and nothing ever came back. The only way i got this thing to even idle was manually adjusting the idle. If not it idles to 500 rpm and sonetimes dies. I checked the egr valve and cleaned it. Works fine
     
  19. Jul 20, 2012 at 9:24 AM
    #19
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Assuming you have a distributor, check the cap, air gap, timing, coil resistance, etc.

    Have you checked the resistance of the plug wires? Not sure what yours is supposed be, but on my distributor-less 1999 model 2.7, they are supposed to be no more than 25,000 ohms.

    Another thought : faulty fuel pressure regulator?
     
  20. Jul 20, 2012 at 9:28 AM
    #20
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    Sounds like the AFR or CAT to me (leaning towards the CAT).

    OP, check and see if the CAT glows after it's up to temp at night
     
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