bad idle and no power?

yea im thinking just that one coil pack just one of the sides is bad so im running on 3 cylinders. not sure if the 4 wires have 2 positives and negatives to control both sides or just those 2 wires for that, that i tested. but still for 50 bucks might as well. that or a new fuel pressure regulator

 

This system uses a waste spark, so you cant have "one side" of the coil being bad. The secondary spark will for example when firing #1 cylinder, travel down the #1 spark plug wire, arc across the #1 plug opening, follow ground through head to #4 spark plug, arcing across its tip, then follow #4 plug wire back to the coil to complete the circuit. When you are testing your coil, can you show or explain exactly what you are measuring across? I have a 1997 Tacoma with the same engine and coil set up, so perhaps I can compare mine to give you an indication of if there is a problem there.

 

in the manual it says test the last two of the 4 wires the far right is positive the one to the left is negative and should be cold @ .36 -.55 ohms and hot is .45-.65 ohms. let me know what you get on your upper coil pack i believe its the coil pack for cyl 2 and 3

 

ok. I will test it tomorrow when I get to work.

 

ok thankyou. also i know this is off topic but last night i was testing my gfs hids since i believe they are 35w and not 55w. i had the probes in the input while they were on and everything was fine got a steady reading of 13.5v then i swapped it over to amps. disconnected first adjusted and put back on and both the lights shut off. though it was her auto off or something since i was on battery testing the car was not started. i tested all the ballasts and bulbs and they work on my car. then i checked the fuses in her car and the fuses on the hid harness all good. the i checked the relay for it. its a funky relay since it is for highs and lows and it smelled like burt electrical. so i believe it shorted the relay somehow and maybe the whole harness. it just sucks i didnt have a normal bulb to test her stock harness to make sure it didnt fry anything else. but is there a relay for the headlights in cars since i couldnt find anything

 

Wait, let me get this right, while you had it connected (backprobed) you switched your meter to amps???

 

Also, are you measuring the COIL or are you measuring the CONNECTOR? Because both of my coils are reading in the 256k ohm range. and according to MY software here, hot resistance should be between 12400 ohms and 19600 ohm on the coil. (of course that means mine are reading on the high side a bit, but I have good, clean spark.) and it also says that primary ignition coil resistance cannot be measured.

 

i had the meter disconnected from the probes then moved to amps then reconnected. they were still running when i recconnected the probes and turned the meter on it started reading them they shut off. I was testing at the input to the ballast. i think its just the Chinese harness i got. i dont see how it could have shorted anything else out if not one fuse blew. it just sucks that my relay is wired differently and doesnt work on her harness. ill have to go get the stock bulbs at home to test and hope for the best

 

i was measuring the coil it self. but the damn manual for these years keep saying distributor then it says ignition coil so wtf?? but according to what i got and this manual says my first coil pack is in spec. and in my manual it says the ohm ratings is for the primary resistance. this is all so confusing haha

 

OK, for starters, you NEVER test for amps if connected in parallel. Always check in series, otherwise you can burn your meter or other components. Depending on the ignition system, you either have one coil that fires to the distributor cap, or twin coils that fire directly to the plugs. Like mine, you have the dual coil pack. As I had mentioned before, you can save yourself a TON of time if you go to the parts store and buy a spark tester. Connect it to a plug wire, ground it with the clamp, and start the truck. You will missfire on the coil wire you have disconnected, but the spark tester will show if you have a weak or a strong spark. If you have a strong spark, then checking coil resistance and such is a waste of your time.

 

damn really you can measure volts in parallel. but if i were to do series it would probably fry this meter in two seconds. but found the problem it was just the relay or harness because the halogens work. but im having someone look at my truck saturday so he should already have all these tools since he works at toyota

 

The way a wired multimeter measures amps is by being connected in series. It is the only way a meter can measure amps without using a clamp probe. As long as you do not exceed the multimeter's amp rating, you will not blow it. That being said, most meters are designed for no more than 10 amps, hence the creation of the clamp probe for higher currents.

 

If you are across + and - with a amp meter it will produce a dead short.

 

now i know haha. i always wondered why the clamp ones were so much better. guess i should have just used my dads.


but now im pissed this guy was supp to come saturday but still hasnt called me back. i just want my powe back. it sucks driving around floored every day. the highways are the worst even straightways 4th gear floored barely does a thing even at 3k+ wznt to fix this soon. hopefully its not running to rich dont want to wash the cylinders down or anything

 

Well now another weird symptom. I had my dash out etc to replace the bulbs in my dash to blue. Luckily I did my they looked ready to burn out and were a little black . But after I put everything back together and noticed my idle was crazy high. I never adjusted the throttle cable at all. The last time I did because it was idling so damn low and stalling and shacking at idle. When I first started it it was idling at almost 2k or maybe a hair over. I had to bring the screw all the way back down on the throttle body till it was at 1k idling. But what could have caused this? It doesn't make any sense

 

were you adjusting the idle stop, or the cable??

 

The first time before this new symptom I did both but today I had to adjust the cable also to get it to idle lower. When warm it idles at 750rpms. I also hear the evap cans or something on the driver side like humming almost it's weird never heard that before from there.

 

The cable should never need adjusting. Adjusting the cable can cause you all sorts of problems. I would rather you adjust the idle stop. Here is a question, and you may have mentioned it already, but have you removed the throttle body and cleaned the throttle plates?

 

Yes ive cleaned the throttle body and was actually pretty clean for how old it is. maybe the intake needs cleaning as well, looked pretty black in there. but does the tps need to be adjusted when reinstalling i didnt see how it could be adjusted, its not spring loaded or anything and its also brand new since i replaced it.