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Ball Mount "Hitch" rattles and is loose 2007 Tacoma

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TnShooter, Dec 3, 2011.

  1. Dec 3, 2011 at 8:25 AM
    #1
    TnShooter

    TnShooter [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a 2007 Tacoma TRD with FACTORY receiver and tow package.
    I have a reese "hitch" with 2" ball.

    My "hitch" is loose in the receiver and rattles.
    It rattle alot when going over bumps and even more so on an empty trailer.
    The fit of the recier and the insert with ball is pretty poor, so I tried 3 other
    inserts and ALL were loose ones was a bit better fit but still loose enough to rattle like crazy? The receiver is not worn at all and the hitch/pin are NEW.

    Anyone else have this problem?
    All the hitches/ inserts I tried were Class III which, will fit a Class IV reciever as we have on the factory Tacmo. Only difference in III and IV is the weight rating. The actual size is the same on both.

    I have noticed TOYOTA sells their own brand ball and insert?
    Is it slightly larger say 1/16" and fits in the receiver more snug?

    My only real concern is the pin is acting as a pivot and is bearing the load at all times. With a snug receiver the pin should only bear weight when stopping and pulling forward.

    Any Ideas?
     
  2. Dec 3, 2011 at 8:30 AM
    #2
    Catcrazed

    Catcrazed Save a horse ride a Railroader

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    Its annoying but I wouldnt worry about it much unless it's really banging, my Bros dodge does the same thing when there is no trailer hooked up anyway. You could have somebody ad a couple beads of weld to the top of your stinger then grind it to fit. Somewhere i hav also seen some kind of anti rattle pin bet if you googled it u could prob find it.
     
  3. Dec 3, 2011 at 8:31 AM
    #3
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    for the rattle you can wrap it with a stripe of black electric tape
    and if you fell the hitch pin is an issue to you just go get a 5/8 x 3/12 or 4" grade 8 bolt and (2) nuts
    problem sloved
     
  4. Dec 3, 2011 at 8:39 AM
    #4
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    fromm b.b. not i....
    Generally Class III receiver hitches are rated at 10K pounds. Most hitch pins are not rated since there is no WLL stamped or cast on the pin. WLL - working load limit - in which the item has been "proof tested" to a point of distortion or failure - which under standard rigging practices is twice the WLL. Receiver hitches are rated for TOWING not recovery. The hitch relies on "tongue weight" to cock or jam the hitch in the receiver. The pin is actually designed to keep the hitch from falling/sliding out when the tow vehicle and trailer encounter a "neutral" position which is where the tongue weight becomes 'neutral or negative' on the ball/hitch. If used for recovery we may (usually do) exceed the rated capacity of the receiver and by pulling in line against the pin may bend/break an unrated pin. I prefer to install a Grade 8 - 5/8" or 9/16" diameter bolt when using a receiver shackle bracket for recovery.

    If you are gonig to use your winch to pull/roll your broken (or whatever) truck up on a trailer the resistance is actually light since it is rolling and the gradient may be within tolerances for light duty winching. A 9000 lb winch should have no problem with your trailer operation. Issues would be the load applied in short distance with little rope paid out. I would shorten the rope on the drum to about double the length of the trailer and use the rest for an extension. Generally a rolling resistance for an average drag racer getting onto a trailer is around 1500 lbs - so you could actually buy a less expensive lower rated winch for that application. humbly my .02cents worth... BB
     
  5. Dec 3, 2011 at 8:47 AM
    #5
    OffroadToy

    OffroadToy This ain't Dodge City, and you ain't Bill Hickok

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    duct tape
     
  6. Dec 3, 2011 at 8:48 AM
    #6
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-Pro

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    ^^ This
     
  7. Dec 3, 2011 at 3:47 PM
    #7
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    I take the damn thing out I can't stand to hit my shins when I walk around the truck! They all rattle on every thing I have ever owned with a hitch.
     
  8. Dec 3, 2011 at 3:51 PM
    #8
    TnRedNeck721

    TnRedNeck721 GO VOLS!

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    i have a ’07 TRD OR and mine does the same. i would say maybe about 1/8 to maybe 1/4 of an inch. dads 2000 tundra does not move much at all! when you take the one out of the tundra you kinda have to work it. (thats what she said) mine just slides right out.

    edit: also the one on tundra moves just as much. it does have a little bit of rust on it tho.
     
  9. Dec 3, 2011 at 4:35 PM
    #9
    08TacoTrD

    08TacoTrD Well-Known Member

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    When I switched ball mounts for my new trailer, I was freaking out for a while about this new noise coming from the rear end until I realized it was the mount being just a bit smaller than the other one I have. It's been months now and I don't even hear it anymore. Maybe some rust formed and it's insulating it.

    Knock your shin into it once or ten times and eventually you learn to walk a little wider around the tail end. Learned that the slow way.
     
  10. Dec 3, 2011 at 4:39 PM
    #10
    TnRedNeck721

    TnRedNeck721 GO VOLS!

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    X2 i did it like twice when i was little on the tundra. that was like back in 2000 2001 lol. i have not hit it once since. :D
     
  11. Dec 3, 2011 at 4:48 PM
    #11
    Warhorseforever

    Warhorseforever Will The Thrill

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    EVERY DAMNED TIME! OP it's not a big deal I don't think just annoying to others, I'm hearing impaired so I don't hear a lot of rattles/knocks/squeeks that others say my truck makes.
     
  12. Dec 3, 2011 at 5:54 PM
    #12
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I just take mine out when not in use. When it's in use and hooked up to a trailer, it won't rattle. You can use electrical tape or wood shims to keep it from rattling if you feel the need to keep the ball mount in at all times.
     
  13. Dec 3, 2011 at 6:08 PM
    #13
    olgzr

    olgzr Well-Known Member

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    I did this with the receiver on my 2000 F150. I added two beads of weld on the top and right side of the stinger, then ground them down to just fit. I changed to the 2010 Tacoma and the insert is snug in this receiver as well. No more rattling as I drive.
     
  14. Dec 3, 2011 at 6:20 PM
    #14
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    You could drill a hole on the side of your hitch receiver and weld a nut concentric to the hole you drilled. Use a bolt run through your welded nut and use it to pin your hitch against the opposite side. Make sure to add a second nut or locking nut to your bolt to keep it securely in place.
     
  15. Dec 3, 2011 at 6:28 PM
    #15
    jflan

    jflan Well-Known Member

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    My Taco for some reason doesn't rattle, but my Jeep's used to drive me nuts.
    I tried the tape but it gets scrubbed out after a while.
    Here's the fix:

    1. Pull the stinger
    2. Drill a hole through the underside of the receiver tube so it is about halfway into where the stinger lives.
    I used a 5/16"-18 machine bolt about a 1/2" long so the drill bit must be the correct size for a 5/16-18 tap. (too lazy to check)
    3. Tap the hole
    4. Reinstall the stinger
    5. Crank in the new bolt so it puts up pressure on the stinger. A lttle anti-seize compound on the threads would be helpful.
    6. Problem solved, permanently.

    Use whatever size/length bolt that looks good to you but I wouldn't go smaller than the above. It only needs to apply pressure.
    I too like to run with the stinger installed because I use it often.
     
  16. Dec 4, 2011 at 7:58 AM
    #16
    KellyJoe

    KellyJoe Well-Known Member

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  17. Dec 4, 2011 at 8:10 AM
    #17
    pudge151

    pudge151 Well-Known Member

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    take it out when not in use, its a shin smasher and easily stolen
     
  18. Dec 4, 2011 at 8:15 AM
    #18
    rbishopp

    rbishopp Well-Known Member

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    So far I've added an Advance folding bed cover and since removed it. Gave it to my son in Maine, he has an 05 2wd. GT perfect fit seat covers. Weathertech floor mats and window vent visors. Waag center brush/grill guard. Hose clamp tailgate mod. Turned off the seat belt chime. Added Ultra-Gauge. Trailer hitch. Softopper. Replaced sun visors with slide out style. Toyota bed extender. Had Firestone Destinations and now Michelin LTX AT2 in stock size. More mods to come; Fog lights, locking storage in bed, intermittent wipers. Now looking for Radio/HU upgrade. and maybe a lift way down the road.
    My ex had a shadow mount hitch on one of her minvans and that thing had tons of play in it. That's how it came. Never had a failure but you could feel the slack when starting up and slowing down. I didn't like it either but lived with it.
    :(
     
  19. Dec 4, 2011 at 11:03 AM
    #19
    TnRedNeck721

    TnRedNeck721 GO VOLS!

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    i guess you have still yet to learn to walk farther from the truck. :p i learned my first time. and no it can’t we have all of ares locked on. (well if they have a drimel and allot of time and about 10 cutting disc’s! ask me how i know it takes about that many. me and dad had to cut one off when mom lost the key) they wear and brake.
     
  20. Dec 4, 2011 at 12:01 PM
    #20
    4x4jeep

    4x4jeep Well-Known Member

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    I would be happy if that was the only noise my truck made :anonymous:
     
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