BamaToy's Garage and Diagnostic Center.

looking back at the sensor i can see just a short like 1.8 ohms in the rear and front which would be the wheel sensor. when i tested the front i just put it on short but dont remember the reading looking to the ecu just a short. looking to ground i saw a short to ground but again couldnt tell you the measurement. I never saw voltage across anything. I can pull it in the garage this weekend and get some precise measurements as i am bringing my work meter home. It has a feature to measure distance. I was going to use it on the back harness and see how far it is going since they are clean open
for the short i was measuring just on a 1k ohm scale across the two leads

 

Maybe getting our wires crossed here. (pun intended) A short is when there is NO resistance, or nearly no resistance between two circuits. Just saying you connected a meter and it "shows a short" doesn't help much when diagnosing an electrical issue. You mentioned a 1.8 ohm resistance in the wheel speed sensor itself? As in that was the resistance when the sensor was disconnected from the harness, and you measured the two wires from the sensor? (Just trying to clarify) If your reading was 1.8 ohms on the wheel speed sensor, then you have a bad sensor. Proper resistance should be typically between 1000 and 1600 ohms, depending on the vehicle. So if that was the reading, no need to do any more diagnostics until you replace the bad sensor.

 

Update for you Bamatoy1997
Ok so today I have been trouble shooting my abs codes. Found the problem. One side of the the abs sensor was/is open in the harness. From the plug at the drivers kick panel to the plug at the rear crossbar there is an open. All the harness looks good no cuts or abrasions. I ran a new set of wires from the plug to the other plug bypassing the harness soldered the connections and heat shrunk the joints. Drove down the road and it got the abs lights when off. Pulled over and cleared all data from obd port and went back home. No lights all good. Back abs sensors measure 1.37k driver rear and 1.45k pass rear. Across both leads for any info for the next person. Thank you for pushing to read more.

 

No problem. what wires did you use though? The ABS system uses a shielded, twisted pair of wires. Running just plain pairs of wires can allow EMI from anything in the chassis to potentially send a false signal on that wire, which could result in incorrect, or unwanted ABS activation resulting in a possibility of a crash. Don't take risks when it comes to safety. Make sure you get a proper repair on something as sensitive as the ABS system.

 

I use shielded stranded twisted wire that I use for work in the same gauge. I ran it in split loom next to the existing harness and cable tied it every 6 inches.

 

Year: 2014
Make: Toyota
Model: Tacoma TRD Off Road
Engine size: 4.0

2 weeks ago, I noticed a squealing sound whenever I had applied the brakes. I assumed it was time to replace them. Then about 1 week ago, I noticed more of a low grinding sound when applying the brakes (coming from the front of the truck) but it was more towards when I was coming to a complete stop. It would start a few seconds before completely stopping. I replaced the brake pads last night and the sound is still there. I am thinking it may be my rotors but am not sure what else it could be. I read that it may just be a vibration between the rotors and pads that is unavoidable.

Is a lift installed: Yes, OME Suspension with Light Racing Control Arms
Is there an alarm system installed: No
When did you first notice the problem?: 1 week ago
How often does it occur?: When Braking
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: yes with brake pads

 

i'm also having an ABS problem.code 36 which says right front abs sensor.replaced it,didnt fix it.bought the short harness from the wheel to the connection under the airbox.still got a abs and traction control light.i'm mystified.

 

Will be back on more often now and helping out!

When you replaced the brake pads did you burnish them in as shown in the instructions? If not, you may have an issue going on there. Did you get organic, semi-metallic, or Ceramic pads?

 

I bought OEM ones, not sure which type they were though. I did not burnish them

 

OEM would be semi-metallic. If not burnished it can cause abnormal noises...

 

06 Tacoma prerunner v6
Hi, do you happen to have the equation for the ATF Temp. For the obd fusion app?

 

Sorry, I do not have that equation.

 

Ok thx

 

Kinda bummed I had no reply to this but I wanted to update it for others if they have the same issue.

Since then I've now replaced the driveshaft carrier bearing to see if it was that. The old one didn't seem bad but since I had it apart I replaced it. Also, replaced U-joints. Neither affected the noise.

So I went to the dealer for the leaf spring recall. I told them about the growling noise and they deduced it was because of the leaf springs. I didn't think it was related and after they were replaced the noise was still there except that instead of decelerating from 40 mph to 27 mph, the same noise happened while accelerating from 33 mph to 40 mph. Thought that was weird. I also got a new 50 mph vibration too. This week however, the growling noise has gone but is now replaced with a high pitched squealing, like a bad pulley. I can notice it at the same speeds as the growling, and actually even slower. At faster speeds its hard to hear due to wind. So something is telling me it might be rear wheel bearings or a bearing in the rear diff, I just want to find out if anyone else has encountered this issue with either and provide me any info.

 

My apologies. I wasn't on here a lot in several months.

A quick check you can do in this case is lift the back of the vehicle up, and place jack stands underneath the axle housing on each side. Then engage the transmission and let the drive system rotate the wheels and driveshaft. CAREFULLY crawl underneath and inspect for the source of the sound.

 

Year: 2007
Make: Toyota
Model:Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4
Engine size: 4.0

At approx. 270,000 miles I noticed a hesitation develop upon accelerating. Figured it was tune up related so I would worry more about it at 300,000, when plugs were due to be replaced. After the plug change the hesitation was still present. By this time the computer had thrown codes P0171 and P0174. Mechanic friend suggested replacing the MAF sensor since I had never touched it before and usually they are the culprit for setting those codes. Replaced it and hesitation was now not as bad but still present and at this time noticed is only happens in the rpm range of 2000-2500. Below 2000 and accelerating, no issues. Above 2500 and accelerating, no issues. He explained those codes are concerning a lean condition, which simply means either too much air or too little fuel. We checked for vacumm leaks, were not able to find any. At this point I gathered data points from my code checker while driving to see what the various computer sensors were reading. I've attached that spreadsheet. You can see what was happening while accelerating in the rpm range I mention as well as steady driving on the highway below 2000 rpm.
If it matters my MPG is the same as it was back in 2007 when I bought it new, in other words there has been no drop in MPG nor rise. On the highway it's about 21-23 MPG, below 20MPG when a lot of stop and go driving occurs.
Thanks in advance

Is a lift installed: No, all stock
Is there an alarm system installed:No
When did you first notice the problem?: almost two years ago, about 50,000 miles ago
How often does it occur?: every time I accelerate and only when the rpm range is between 2000-2500RPM
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: yes. 1st was change plugs at 300,000 miles and cleaned the throttle body at the same time. Replaced MAF sensor with DENSO (orig. one had never been cleaned) shortly after spark plug replacement made no difference. Checked for vacuum leaks with starting fluid, found none.

 

Lean codes are typically the result of low fuel pressure, low fuel flow, or un-metered air entering the engine. Some tests that need to be done before any other diagnosis should be attempted is a fuel pressure test, a fuel flow rate test, and a engine hose inspection test. We need to know if the fuel pressure and flow rate is sufficient. If not it can cause hesitation and lean codes. If any vacuum hoses, or any hose connection AFTER the MAF sensor is present, then this un-metered air can also cause hesitation and lean codes. I would suggest checking every hose and connection, including the large clamps for the air inlet assembly, are tight and not cracked. Also check the MAF sensor for any internal blockage (something that might have got past the air filter) and also check the air filter itself. Start there and let's see what we can figure out.

 

Using this thread as a guide I checked the fuel pressure.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-check-fuel-pressure-w-pics.445975/

With the gauge hooked up and cranking the motor it got up to 26psi. Isn't it supposed to be 39-41psi when cranking?

 

38 is a more appropriate fuel pressure. The best thing is to install a "T" fitting in the fuel rail to the engine so that you can measure fuel pressure "live" with the engine running. This allows you to check fuel pressure through the range of operation, to see if there is a dip when you accelerate. 26PSI does seem low for sure!