Based on these measurements, are new uca’s needed?

2003 DC 4WD V6
OME 883/RCD D558 on lowest setting
Ended up with ~3” lift (maybe a touch more)

I need some input before spending $500-$600 on new UCA’s.

Cross posted on 1st Gen forum.

 

That caster is fucked, it will drive like shit at high speeds. I never understand how techs get these measurements, I've lifted toyotas for probably 12 years now and I've never given up at 0 degrees caster unless its seized.

I would personally want a second opinion before UCA's but they will solve many issues with a 3" lift. I would hope for 1 degree of caster and expect to see positive camber around 0.5 degrees as well. With UCA's you will get 2.5 caster easily and 0 degrees camber if done right.

Is it rubbing at all with the setup? or you still running the same tires pre-lift?

 

if that caster is maxed out, than yes...

 

Oddly enough, it drove pretty damn good on the interstate on the way back from the shop this morning. I hit speeds of 70+. No pull and tracked pretty damn straight. Also, no current rubbing that I can tell. I'm running 265/75/16 on 16x8 0mm offset 4.5 BS.

FWIW, I got the alignment this morning at Firestone with Lifetime Alignment.

 

Something else I just noticed. Look at the L/R arrows. They are in the same exact locations from L to R yet the numbers are different. WTH?

 

Funny you focus on the caster, which is valid, while another member on the 1st Gen forum (cross posted), focused on the camber. LOL

What about the thrust angle of -0.11 deg (dog tracking)?

 

Unless the cams were “maxed” before the lift, they didn’t adjust anything. 1gen’s have a much better shot at decent numbers so I’m just going to assume the “tech” doesn’t know wtf he’s doing or didn’t feel like working that day. He’s a “toe&go” tech and probably doesn’t know much more than that.

Post a pic of the LCA eccentrics. I’d bet good money there is room for adjustment.

 

Cam Position Pics
FF = Front Forward
FR = Front Rear
RF = Rear Forward
RR = Rear Rear

 

After reviewing Toyota specs, the above numbers are in spec although some aren't not optimal. Maybe I should just "leave it be" until if/when I notice an issue?

 

No no no, they are definitely not in spec or optimal. You need a COMPETENT alignment tech. There is plenty of room for adjustment. They just don’t want to do the extra work to get it there(aka their job). I could literally give you a better alignment in my garage in ~15min with no alignment rack.

 

According to SS-63 Toyota Alignment Specs:
Camber = -0.3* +/- 0.75* which equates to the printed range of 0.5* - -1.1*
Caster = 2.66* +/- 0.75* which equates to the printed range of 3.4* - 1.9*
Total Toe = 0.06* +/- 0.2* which equates to the printed range of -0.15* - 0.25*

All measurements fall within those ranges however not optimal. BUT if you believe there is plenty of room for better numbers, I'll definitely take it back. I'm fo'sho' no alignment tech!

 

The RED means not “in-spec” and being at either end of that spec is not desirable. You have close to zero caster on one side and negative caster on the other. THAT is horrible fyi.

Taking it back to the same alignment shop probably won’t net better results. They obviously don’t want to do the work.

 

1.5* caster is possible on stock upper control arms. I don't see how it's maxed. Post pictures of the cam bolts.

 

^^^^^^ See post #8 above for pics.

 

I agree the caster is ALL jacked up!

 

How did I miss those pics lol. There should be more adjustment. Try another alignment shop. And tell them you want the maximum caster possible keeping camber in spec.

 

Get UCAs! When you lift, you are effectively closing the gap between your steering and the front wheels. This will cause the truck to drift all over the place at highway speed. Completely annoying. UCAs are expensive but it will maintain an appropriate level of caster (~2.5-2.7 degrees). If you drive alot, just do it. The money will pale in comparison to your frustration over time!

 

When you lift the truck, you are effectively reducing the ability of the front end to obtain more caster. That's why the UCAs exist in the first place (well not really but they solve this problem too lol!). You want the caster in the 2.5 to 2.7 range on that level of lift. If you don't think it is tracking, wait until you get the UCAs and you will notice a huge difference. It is important to maintain the appropriate geometry on these suspensions for long term problem free lives! I had a similar lift and experienced the same issues; just get the UCAs and call it a day. You will thank yourself when you feel how tight the steering is relative to before them. If you offroad really hard, make sure to consider uniball for reliability but they are kind of clunky sounding.

 

I got the lifetime alignment from Firestone. Paid a premium for it.

 

That really sucks. Its why I never have bought that. I have found a good shop and for $50 im out the door. But it took me about 5 different shops till I found someone that knew what they are doing.