Based on these measurements, are new uca’s needed?

1.5-2* is more than enough and can be easily done on stock UCA's.

 

With a 3”+ lift?

 

I'm running 3 and 3.4 castor with TC UCA's. I also paid for the lifetime ($250 or so) but have also got 6-7 alignments out of it. They also took my ask for more castor. So far it's more than made up for the cost. 3" lift will benefit nice with the UCA. You may be able to get bye but your truck will thank you.

 

Yes with 3" lift. You lose about 2* caster. With stock suspension you can get 3.5*. Take off 2* and you can still get 1.5*. Stock UCA's give you the most clearance at the firewall and cab mount. People will complain of more rubbing once they go with aftermarket UCA's because they do fix the caster but at a cost of moving the tire towards the firewall and cab mount. I have fine tuned my SPC's to give me 2* caster but most firewall clearance because my cam bolts on the LCA's are fully maxed.

 

If you say so but I haven't seen it done too well with any other truck including my own. But if it works it works! Less to buy!

 

And WHAT is eating up my spring? Is it caused by the alignment issue?

 

Looks like it’s contacting the spindle at full droop.

You can rotate the coil so at full droop the spindle pokes in between the coils instead of hitting them. Its probably going to take some muscle.

 

There is NO WAY that spring will spin. Not even if I jack the truck up to let it go to full droop. Still too much pressure.

 

It might require spring compressors than.

 

I'm really second guessing myself on this lift thing. I should just go all the way back to stock.

 

Can I just grind off that corner from the spindle? The odds of me rotating that coil without completely disassembling everything is slim to none plus what are the odds of finding rotating that spring to the e.x.a.c.t. open spot that corner intersects that spring at full droop? AND if its doing it turning left, straight or turning right.

 

Even more reason to get those UCAs lol. Yeah man just grind that fucker smooth.

 

Hmmm...not sure how to take your statement. Ok to round off that corner or not?

I agree on the UCA's.

 

Yeah I meant should be fine to round the corner off. I'm kinda surprised that's what is contacting the spring, or did that just happen when your spring came off the coil isolator at the top? That was you that that happened to right?

 

Yeah but we disassembled everything and rotated the spring around. While there are other areas debrided from the coil when the it came off the top isolator, that area is new.

 

I just ordered SPC UCA's PN 25460. Hopefully they will help.

 

Ok. I took it back to Firestone and they had their "Master Tech" work on it. The numbers are now as follows:

Left Camber: -0.2* (was 0.5*)
Right Camber: -0.4* (was 0.4*)
Left Caster: 1.4* (was -0.1*)
Right Caster: 1.1* (was 0.2*)
Total Toe: 0.05* (was 0.05*)

What are your thoughts?

BTW, the top of the steering knuckle is still bumping/rubbing my NEW coil springs! Will a LR SPC UCA fix that?

 

Take a look at this pic. Notice the Camber on both sides and the arrows. Why do both sides say Neg camber but the left side arrow is pointing to the positive side of the line?

 

Much better alignment this time which proves the original tech saying “caster is maxed” was bullshit. They could have got more caster if they hadn’t have brought the camber into the negative, but that’s as good as it gets with stock uppers.

LR should fix your rubbing issues. It might take some adjusting and obviously you’ll need yet another alignment.

 

That area is “spec”. I’m just assuming the middle of the spec area is -0.1°. The right side reads from left to right, negative to positive. The left side reads from right to left negative to positive.

Not sure if I explained that clearly, but it all looks fine to me.