Battery Help Please - 24F vs 27F

i got a 24f 6months ago. it is fine. the numbers are better than the stock, while its size maybe a tad smaller. no need to go cray cray and email the dealership 8 times. i live in florida, i have a 2010 dcsb with tow pkg

 

IMHO, it appears that the major battery manufacturers are dropping the BCI Group 27F because the 24Fs have been repackaged with more (and thinner) plates for more Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) to reduce their cost. The downside is a loss of Reserve Capacity (RC) and possibly a shorter service life due to few total cycles, especially in a high vibration environment (like off-roading) or high parasitic loads. It is like replacing 24F with a smaller 34 battery.

Climate has the largest effect on the amount of CCA required, driving habits determines the amount of RC, and application and charging system compatibility influences the battery type.

 

Very informative thread

 

I just replaced my 2013 TRD's battery last week with a Duralast Gold 27F.

 

The 34R is approximately one inch shorter in height than a 24F, so you might have to use a spacer or a piece of wood for your OEM hold down clamps to tighten. 775 CCA is plenty of amps to crank your V-6 in SoCal. Tip: depending on your driving habits, periodically "top off" the AGM with a smart charger with an AGM setting for longer battery life.

 

Ditch the OEM and go with an Optima. Now a lot of people say they had issues with the Redtop's and I run a yellow, my truck sits on the regular for 3 weeks to a month and never an issue.

 

Fugin octopus. ^^^

 

A nice summary of Costco Batteries and xref for future inquiries
http://www.vaughns-1-pagers.com/local/kirkland-auto-batteries.htm

 

that avatar plays with my mind.

 

dude. where did you get those battery terminals?

 

My factory 27F just died at 1.5 years so I now have a 34R but it did not come with a spacer. I currently have two pieces of wood (1X4) underneath. Think all i need to get is a shorter set of hold down bolts like these to make it fit properly unless anyone has come up with a better solution??


http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-battery-hold-down-bolts-8-in-0112505p.html#srp

 

Doing some research today trying to find a 27F Marine/RV Deep Cycle battery that would fit in the stock plastic Toyota battery tray I got an education.

Basically there's three types of batteries:

- Starting batteries. Engineered for starting amps, not for continual discharge/charge cycles.

- Deep Cycle batteries. Engineered for continual discharge/charge cycles, but less starting amps.

- Dual Purpose batteries. Engineered to be a Starting battery also a Deep Cycle battery.

- CA=Cranking amps=MCA (Marine Cranking Amps)=amps for 30 seconds at 32 degrees F.
- CCA=Cold Cranking amps=amps for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F.
- RC=Reserve Capacity=minutes on a 20 amp load before the battery drops to 10.5 volts.
- AH=amp hours=don't bother with it, Reserve Capacity tells you all you need to know.

westmarine.com has a great selection of BCI Group 27 Marine/RV batteries (they have the dual stud, standard round battery terminal plus a threaded stud). They have the designation '27' or '27M'.

Unfortunately, they are not 27F designation, the F means the positive terminal is on the opposite side from a 27. Stock Toyota battery setup has to have a 27F, the stock battery cables won't reach a 27's terminals.

24F is fine (3rd Gen Tacoma w/tow package has a 24F), but a 27F no matter the brand will have more Reserve Capacity. Neither are Deep Cycle batteries, more in the Starting Battery category.

I think a direct replacement Duralast Gold or whatever 27F is fine for all applications.

Optima Yellow 27F is too pricey, although it is designed to be a Dual Purpose battery.

And, finally, don't trust that 10.5 volts (see Reserve Capacity above) will start your engine. 10.5v won't start mine, I think 11.2 is the threshold and carry a jump pack.

 

24F from Sam's club wouldn't strap down for me. To tall and didn't want to bend bracket. Also 24F not what my book calls for my truck. Stuck with 27F FTW.

 

Toyota's standard battery for Tacoma is a 24F. Their optional battery that is standard with some other options is a 27F. The difference is the length of the battery. The height and width are generally the same with the same terminal placement and polarity. Another difference is due to the 27F's larger physical length, more plates can be added for increased CCA performance or Reserve Capacity. Amp Hours is a capacity measurement that is very useful if you have a drain (aftermarket winch, audio system, lighting, etc.) other that at 25 amps due to the Peukert Effect.

 

You can shim it with a piece of wood or plastic under the battery so you tighten down the holddown bracket. A loose battery will vibrate excessively causing a premature plate failure.

 

Northstar AGM for the easy win!

 

i want those terminals!

This is the best answer.

 

This

 

If you application is extreme off road, a spiral wound AGM, like the Yellow Top Optima will handle heavy vibration better. If your application is more street use with heavy electrical loads, the flat plate AGM, like the Northstar will should handle the deep cycling better. Both examples are very good batteries and should give a long service life if properly charged and maintained.

 

With just a little bit of work the 34R is in there and secure and no wood.
Used the previously mentioned replacement 8 inch J bolts you can buy anywhere (Amazon, canadian tire etc)
Drilled out the spot weld or whatever it is that holds the rear factory J hook to the hold down bracket.
Picked up 2 nylock nuts and two washers.
Used my dremel tool and cutoff disk to shorten rear 8 inch j hook since on the factory setup the rear one is like 2 inches shorter.
Installed everything and its not going anywhere now
Total cost less than $10