Battery Negative/Ground Cable Upgrade

Hey guys. Curious as to the size of the negative ground to chassis cable and what size ring terminal for it as I am going to custom. Order one. I have the SDHQ terminals that just came In. @JoeCOVA what size terminal was that connection- 5/16” or 3/8”? And I guess it depends if u mount to the front or back bolt spot on that terminal right ?

 

Has anyone done a big three upgrade? I plan to use something like this to upgrade my battery terminals. Seems like a decent option that doesn’t require cutting the factory ends.

 

I had that on my old factory battery that I just replaced due to that terminal corroding like a MF. Ended up putting a ring terminal on my 4g wire to the stereo direct to the positive terminal. Done and done.

 

Neat idea, but doesn't say what its made of. I would hope aluminum, but it looks like steel. I bet that would corrode instantly

 

Oh man, I don’t remember anymore. I feel like 3/8 would be too big so 5/16 sounds right. I would just order a box of different sizes just on case.

 

Thanks @JoeCOVA Yeah I ordered 2 sizes on Amazon with the lugs already connected. Did u use the lug connector they provided for the other negative connection? Looks like it is a compression lug or something that you thread into the cable first before attaching ? Is it hard to do? I don’t have much experience wiring things which is why i bought a whole new cable with terminals for that other ground ! Ha. Didn’t wanna mess up the crimp. Also if I use the new wire I get can I take off that old OEM ground connector? Or do I have to have both? Thanks

 

I did use the lug connector they provided and it's super easy, you shouldnt have any issues putting it on. I also didn't crimp any cables, I soldered them with a torch, so I put the ring terminal in a vice and used a torch to heat it and melted the solder and flux into the cup then dunked the wire in and let it cool. It's easier with two people, one heating and the other dunking. You can replace the old OEM ground wire with the new one but the OEM has a special washer with a tab that secures it to the body.

 

Nice. And with that lug connector they use there’s nothing I need to solder or crimp right since it screws in ? And I can ground that separate wire from the frame to the side connector with bolt on the sdhq and I guess just connect the one with the lug connector they provide to the top bolt. ? Any chance u have a close up of how u connected the ? Also on the positive side there’s no modification needed right ? Just bolt the connection to the new sdhq positive terminal ? ive read their instructions like 10 times I’m just cautious with terminal and electrical stuff and they explain it “so so”. I wish they had a video install.

 

Hey @JoeCOVA quick question apologies if stupid. But can you heat shrink over heat shrink? I have a new battery cable for the ground and I’m putting the braided loom over it and wondering if it’s ok to heat shrink over heat shrink (meaning the lug already has heat shrinking over it as it came that way from factory). I’m attaching pics to illustrate what I’m asking. First pic is of the lug as it is. And the second pic I practiced heat shrinking the braided loom over the wire. also a question u mentioned the stock oem battery ground to chassis has a special washer to attach to frame- can that be reused with the new cable or is it attached to the cable? Would my new cable be ok just fastening to the frame or would I need the special washer setup?

 

Yup you can heat shrink over heat shrink. As far as the ground, I don’t think you can reuse the OEM washer thing but you should be ok with your replacement cable.

 

This is my 4runner

 

Well @JoeCOVA i got it installed, but I was really concerned with my compression lug as I couldn’t get it to get tightened all the way on the base thread. Showing pictures below. When in started it after hooking both up, it was a weak first start but it starts and runs. Hoping it’s ok for the long term and won’t give problems. Any thoughts ?
2nd pic is of the lug installed as far as I could thread. Didn’t wanna crank too far as the instructions said could strip. Also final pic is the completed install. Thinking I may try and reroute the top negative cable under the others to not be looped as high in the air. My install didn’t leave me much slack with the amp power wire for the positive.

 

Ive never seen or used those types of lugs, but it looks a little suspect if Im honest.. Did you trim back too much insulation before installing the lug? Seems like that would stop the lug from tightening even if it wasnt actually clamping tightly on the wire.

I had to extend my starter motor lead when I went to a group 27 Northstar battery. I also replaced a few of the negative leads while I was at it, as pictured. I used large crimp on lugs with a cheap HF crimpper. As long as the wire doesnt fall out, theres no question those are tight

 

You need to set one up. You know what you are talking about and I'd love to see what your whole setup.

 

I mean it may look suspect but i don’t know how that really helps me lol. Truck turns on fine and everything. It was trimmed back according to instructions from SDHQ which honestly were minimal and no video available. One thing that is not working fully now a mu dome light is not coming on with door open (yes it is set to door). It works when i tap next to it on the cover or head over. And works in all other positions just not when door opens. Wondering if something went awry with terminal change ? Man damn these mods. I try and learn to do something and it’s always somethin.

 

In your post above you said it was a weak start after doing this work. Thats what I was going on.. If it starts and runs fine, then dont worry about it I guess

Your dome light is probably as simple as a loose bulb or filament or something

 

Gotcha. Yeah man I dunno it starts fine now but that first one was just sorta weak. I’m hoping all is cool. The thread thing was kinda weird. If i has been thinking and it hadnt been so warm outside I may have tried to thread it outside the wire to test fit but I kinda wanted to finish the deal In my apt complex parking lot lol. Had the old heat gun with extension cord strung into the laundry room for an outlet. It was special !

 

**TL;DR I want to replace my battery cables, but before I start I want to make sure I'm doing it properly. Anyone have links to YouTube videos (visual learner)?**



Hey everyone, thanks for taking the time to help!

I just installed an OGE dual battery (split) system with the aux battery on the passenger side. In the process I had to cut my OEM negative cable a few inches shorter due to corrosion and now it just barely reaches the negative terminal (no slack). I planned on upgrading to military-style/marine-grade terminal connectors anyways, but now I'm thinking I should probably replace the positive/negative cables leading to the starter battery as well.

I've scoured the interwebs and consulted my Haynes manual and the process seems pretty straightforward, but my question is this: do any of you know of any YouTube links for the process? I'm a visual learner and while I'm confident I can figure it out the truck is also my daily driver so I can't mess it up.

Thank you in advance!

 

No video, but heres a few of my posts describing what I did. Really you'll just need the right tools including some large hydraulic crimpers, some good quality heat shrink, and the correct size crimp terminals.

ps I had to go wayyy back in the archives to find that one haha. Hope it helps
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...atteries-thread.295653/page-129#post-22451672
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...atteries-thread.295653/page-112#post-19834036

 

Thanks, I really appreciate it! And yeah I've been searching for a write-up for a while and couldn't seem to find anything which I thought was weird for how basic a maintenance job it seems. Thanks again!