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Bed light question

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Redgrom, Apr 22, 2012.

  1. Apr 22, 2012 at 7:43 PM
    #1
    Redgrom

    Redgrom [OP] http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

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    Hello, i have already found a few threads reguarding. Bed lights but still have a wiring question. Every other light I have wired has been through a relay so they would only work when the ignition is on by using a relay. I want my bed lights to available without the keys. Should I jus wire it directly to my blue sea fuse box? I could run a relay off a always hot wire seams pointless. Am I missing something?

    Sorry for the iPhone grammar errors.
     
  2. Apr 22, 2012 at 7:49 PM
    #2
    Scooter

    Scooter Canadian Member

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  3. Apr 22, 2012 at 7:54 PM
    #3
    VanCity4x

    VanCity4x Out fer a Rip eh Bud

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    If you want it to run without ignition or lights on just run a in line fuse from the battery to the switch. Then from the switch run the wire to the lights. It should be like any fog/aux light wiring.
     
  4. Apr 22, 2012 at 7:58 PM
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    tacomafide

    tacomafide Cheese it in there!

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  5. Apr 22, 2012 at 8:30 PM
    #5
    Redgrom

    Redgrom [OP] http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

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    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MMH1GC/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1335151666&sr=8-2
    Sorry about that, should have just called it my aftermarket fuse box rather than trying to rember the brand.
     
  6. Apr 22, 2012 at 8:31 PM
    #6
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Just make sure the switch has sufficient capacity to carry at least 130% of the current draw of the lights (and preferably more).
    A pair of 55w lights = 110w, 110w = about 8 amps.. you need a switch rated for 10a or higher, preferably 15a (fuse at 10a).

    The relay serves two functions. It allows you to switch from a low-capacity source that is switched with the ignition such as your parking lights, headlights, backup lights, etc... without introducing a large current draw on that source....
    But it also serves to keep high-current conductors out from under the dash.
    So yes, it would not be abnormal to use a relay between the battery and lights, with the power source for the switch run from the battery as well.
    This would allow you to use a 6ga conductor sized for the full 30a capacity of the relay, to power devices drawing as much as 20a with a 25a fuse... all while running nothing larger than a couple of 18ga wires through your firewall fused at 5a and a basic auto parts store 8a illuminated switch.

    That is EXACTLY how I wired my '06 Duramax.
    I installed a Pelican box in the shell as a sub-panel. It was fed from the battery by three 30a supply lines, which were routed into a bank of 6 relays.
    The 5 relays were connected via 22ga multiconductor cable to toggle switches in my overhead console. The switched side was fused at 5a for the relays.

    The system switched a set of 4 Hella-500 on the roof (2 relays), a pair of fogs mounted to the front corners of the rack as "alley lights", a pair of amber strobes, and a pair of rear-facing white work lights.
    A 6th relay was intended to be connected to an inverter, but the battery drain on an inverter with a useful capacity made it more practical to simply use a Honda EU2000 generator.
     
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