Best motor oil???!!!

Meh, UOAs don't tell you too much unless you watch for trends over multiple fills.

Even then, their accuracy is questionable.

Bottom line (again): All major oils will do just fine as long as you change according to the schedule.

 

I found Redline 5w-30 was on sale today for $7.99 per quart. The salesman told me that it will be harder to find there products as Redline was indicted for making false claims about there products.

 

I do. They are consistently seeming to be the best with many different engines. I will go with that and the various ACEA ratings and approvals over marketing hype. So those are my choices. Just saying.

One of the better oils out there, IMO, and I am an oil geek, who does his homework.

 

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In everything (vehicles & lawn equipment & etc.) I was using Mobile 1 every 3k to 5k miles ... now using Royal Purple or Amsoil every 3k to 5k.

In the lawn mower (Honda), I change the oil about every 25 hours with Royal Purple.
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Yep, check my earlier post if you like to read The only issue I have with Amsoil (and they were up front about it and everything when I spoke to the cheif engineer. They do use some group III oils as well, not much its more of an additive package. AND they are hard to get your hands on, at least harder than RP or any of the major brands. But I would use Amsoil too, I jusr prefer RP. JOE>

 

Probably does not matter which brand since a majority of the additive packages come from chevron/oronite. That is why several oils will have similar results with the only difference being that particular companies base stock. Even then companies might even trade base stocks in one area with another company. Some companies may buy a complete addititive package or they may buy components and make there own package. Mobil, through my experience at work, will buy components only and make their own package. Shell (pennzoil, quakerstate) also buys some additives from Infinium.

 

Actually...if you check the SuperTech virgin oil analysis, they have a very good oil mineral oil (5w30). Should be a great value if you happen to be one still on a 3-5K oil change regime.

http://pqiamerica.com/SupertechApril2010.htm

Some facts never hurt...

 

There is a lot of truth in this. Base oil does matter though. It is far more than just a carrier for the adds.

 

But different brands of oils do put vastly different addy pack's, regardless of where they get the additives.

Even within a brand there are big differences: simply check out the VOA's for M1's Extended Life 10W30 and compare to their high-miles 10w30. There are substantial differences because they are targeted to different purposes: the former has really high TBN, the latter has stuff in to promote swelling of seals. The chemistry of the oil is pretty complex with a lot of inter-related paramaters: it's not just a simple thing to dump something in and expect it not to have an adverse secondary or tertiary effect.

UOA's and VOA's regularly highlite and illustrate the differences in addy packages: AMSOIL is famous for nice high TBN's making their oil a long-time favorite for extended drain intervals. Penn Ultra is using the same approach although they don't market it that way as does Mobil1's Extended Mileage label. Manufacturers change their addy packs to match how they market an oil, that's how they differentiate themselves in the market.

Can't agree it doesn't matter because it definitely does, IF you are trying to match an oil to a desired result. If you're just running old-fashioned 3-5k drain intervals on a nearly new engine: no. It doesn't matter at all. Just get API starburst with SN rating and you'll never notice the difference. If you want long drain intervals: choose an oil that's proven to do that well. If you've got an 300K wheezer that's seeping oil get a good high-miles oil.

Also, you left Lubrizol out.

 

Agreed but alot of times companies just buy an additive pack off the shelf and use it. The point I was trying to make is alot the oils will be very similar. Not all but some. Especially since Oronite probably provides 80% of the addititives.

Or at least that has been my experience in my line of work. I work for marine transportation company that has several 2 cycle emd diesel engines and spend a ridiculous amount of money on lube oil each year. I've had the opportunity to talk with several different oil companies who are always willing to share info to get our lube oil business.

 

And I'd have to agree there...reading through the VOA threads on BITOG and can see how they are able to compare similar oils based on the addy packs and other characteristics. But they also note where the differences are...and they can be considerable.

There's also the fact that formulating oils is pretty complex and there are only so many ways to do it and not have undesired effects. I'm sure that limits their ability to push performance and NOT have a lot of similarities.

 

Just bought my 2011 a couple weeks ago,1800 miles so far,work 6 days a week,10 to 14 hr a day,don't have time to do services myself,wife always goes to dealership of whatever we have at the time,dealership says 5k services,maybe i'm old school,but i'm not going to run Dino oil for 5k,never run synthetic but i'll feel better doing it for 5k

 

I try many brands,in my years,form Penzoil to Mobil One. I have been an AMSOIL dealer for over twenty years, there are a lot of good oils out there but extended oil change is what sold it for me, I put lot of miles a week so they add up fast and the last thing I want to do on e weekend is change the oil http://lubedealer.com/jehmotorcyclelubes/

 

Walmart Syntec

 

Try, Test, Analyze AMSOIL! You won't go back to Mobile one!

 

amsoil......i will say this everytime i see this thread lol

 

Since 90% of engine wear occurs at start up and no oil is thin enough at ambient air temperatures at start up, I look at the specs for viscosity at those temps. On the data sheets they usually have a viscosity rating at 40 degrees C, so I look for a low number there. I'm not convinced that all the rest of the claims and issues are nearly as important as that number.

 

TOYOTA TACOMA 4.0L 6-cyl Engine Code 1GR-FE

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AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (SSO)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D445)

56.56​

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)

60.7​

TOYOTA TACOMA 2.7L 4-cyl Engine Code 2TR-FE
100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASM)
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)

49.1​

Other significants tests you should consider our Four Ball Wear Test(ASTM D-1472) and High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity cP, X°C, X s-1 (ASTM D4683). Check out www.AmericanLubes.com for detailed information.

 

Then why is Amsoil so afraid to submit their oils to independent industry standard tests?

I'm not saying Amsoil is bad...but I AM saying it's not nearly as good as all the fanboys think it is...and their refusal to submit to independent tests lets those fanboys continue to perpetuate myths surrounding it. That's the Amsoil marketing approach...sell to the naive like Tupperware.

Buy API SM or SN, or better yet look for ACEA sequence rating, and you can't go wrong.

And in the only independent head-to-head real-world test of Amsoil vs Mobil1 I know of...Amsoil lost! LOL But seriously...it was close enough to conclude they were both excellent oils and quite suitable for the purpose.