Betterbuckleup's 2000 taco build & BS

Gotcha. Yea that would make sense

 

Got the replacement adapter in. Installed all the gears and shift fork. Had to grind down the roll pin to clear the gear.
Took some sandpaper and roughed up the mating surfaces on both sides before adding the silicone. Really hope I don't have to open this bitch back up.

It's a shame that all this sexy ass machined metal is gonna get hidden up under the truck.

Next up is mounting up the front adapter plate to the front of the case. Then it's pretty much ready to be installed.

 

Looks good! You make sure to grease the bearings and gear selection ring before install?

 

Sure did!

Didn't grease the ring itself as the instructions didn't call for that, but I can do that from the shifter hole with a brush.

I figure it'll all be washed out relatively quick anyways once there's oil in there and things start moving with some speed. Especially with the marlin oil pump dealio in the gears

 

Yeah, I know the Marlin Crawler instruction guide calls for it, but I think that guide is also 15 year old

 

Yea honestly both Marlins and TG's instructions aren't great.
Doesn't give you much extra information or any tips.

Was surprised that nothing really has a torque spec either. Toyota does, but don't really know how much this applies here. And too lazy to try and look up torque specs from an 80's pickup lol.

 

Now waiting on the silicone to dry until I torque down the front adapter plate.

Need to pickup a transmission jack next week. Might start tearing into the truck this next week after work too.

 

Yeah, they could do with an updated version.

 

That’s what she said.

 

Got the stock T-case pulled last night. Some of those bolts at the top are annoying to get to.

Drained the case and the fluid was pretty clean.

Didn't need to use a puller to get the coupler off the t-case. Just slipped right off. Makes me wonder why some guys have to use a puller to get theirs off.

Cracked the case open to remove the interlock pin and grind off that nub from the shifter for the RAD triple sticks.






In the process of fucking around with the shift rails, all 3 syncro keys fell out.... I messed around with it for a while trying to put them back in, but found out that I was trying to put them in upside down. Thanks to @StevenP for documenting that in his build thread when he went through the same thing.

Today i'll try and put them back in and then reassemble the case with ultra grey. Then pull out the factory seal and put in the seal extension housing thing with some silicone on the mating surface.

Also have to replace the front output seal on the case before putting it back into operation. Had the parts to do it for a while now, just never got around to doing it. Now is a good a time as ever

 

Some better instructions, with torq spec.

Trans to adapter https://blog.lowrangeoffroad.com/wp...00-0023_Adapter_Kit_-_Tacoma_Transmission.pdf

Adapter to Crawlbox https://blog.lowrangeoffroad.com/wp...chworm-Tacoma-Dual-Case-Adapter_Inch-Worm.pdf

 

You're the man! Thanks!

 

You're should smooth out the small bump on the left shift fork (the one that controls 2wd/4wd). I had a ton of issues with shifting before I did that.

 

You mean the bump that's on the top part of the front most prong that I left there? And that rail is for hi, neutral, lo pretty sure.

I tested the shifting in dry fitting the case back together and everything seemed fine. What kinda probs did you have?

 

So I got the stock case back together after. Fucked around with those syncro keys cause I was confused on how they sat in there, but ended up buttoning it back up and shifting good again. (thanks again @StevenP)
Torqued everything down to about 20 or so ft-lbs with blue loc-tite on all the bolts.

Didn't really care enough to clean the outside of the case at all. Figure I might be dealing with leaks in which case it'll just get dirty again.



Replaced the front output companion flange seals and nuts too.



Then I started to tackle the coupling....
Pulled the factory seal out and then tried putting the coupling on before putting the extension seal housing on over it.

The splines are a super tight fit and it didn't really "slip" right on over. I expected some resistance, but not this much. I coated the splines on the coupler with anti-seize too which I would think would help it slide on a bit easier.



So I started to drive it in there hoping that it might have just been the start of the splines or something.
Got about 3/4 of the way there until it just wouldn't go anymore.

Something is up, so I then tried to pull it back off. Ripped on it with channel locks and all sorts of shit. Blasted it with my MAP torch too, but nothing.

So at that point I gave in and broke out my welder to weld some stock on the sides of the coupler and use a gear puller to get it off. Broke the welds a coupler times too before I was actually able to get it off.





I'm gonna give call some companies tomorrow and see what they have to say about it. Also going to order the marlin crawler coupler and see if I have any better luck with that. Just hope that it's the right length and fits behind the TG extension seal housing.

I dunno if it's cause I'm a 4cyl with 26 spline outputs & inputs, but it shouldn't be this hard. I wonder if the few other people that have done a crawlbox on the 4cyl have run into this kinda thing with it going on there crazy tight. Most other people (albeit with 6cyl) report that it goes on there with just a few good hits from a mallet/hammer. I was wailing on mine trying to get it on there...

Shit is fighting me every part of the way, but it will happen one way or another. Even if I have to make my own goddamn coupler.

 

The coupler sucked on mine as well, but only getting it out, I notched the stock one with my dremel so the jaws of my puller would sit inside of it, since I didn’t have a welder, and eventually got it off. As for putting the new one on, it went on without issue.. Hope you find a solution outside of making your own!

 

Thanks yea I ordered the marlin crawler one to try and see if that will work better.
I like the idea of making the notches on it. Although I figured adding material would be more reversible than removing material from the coupler.

 

So I went to mate the crawlbox assembly to the stock case and ran into a road block.

The rear adapter has the wrong hole pattern so it won't bolt up to the factory chain case.
Don't know if it's bad machining that's at fault, or that it's an adapter for a different truck. I think it might be the latter, but suck regardless.
The cases are the same for both the v6 and 4cyl tacomas other than the spline count. So I wonder if it's an adapter for a second gen or some shit.

Like 4 or so of the holes are off by a good bit. The pictures speak for themselves...

I've had great luck with TG stuff up until this point. Sucks that it had to happen now.

So now gotta wait until Monday until I can call them and see what the hell is going on.
Hopefully it was just a simple part mix up, but we'll see.

If they send me a new part, I'll have 3 full sets of adapters on hand
Still wondering when they're gonna ask for the damaged set back lol. Was holding off to send it back until it's all said and done just in case something broke or I was missing a part.

 

Not sure if this helps.
I just picked up a couple of boxes from Trail Gear.
Here's a side by side of their adapter plates.
The one on the right is for the 2005+ Auto's & chain transfer case.
How did you get the adapter off on the other side, the one that goes to the Trans?
Thx

 

Yeah, that's the one I meant. I had issues with keeping it in gear. It would occasionally pop out of gear.

Weird. Mine is tight, but I'm still able to get it off by hand. I'm a 23spline however.

I know I had to use a mill to open up on of the bolt holes for the transfer case adapter. From my understanding, or at least for the Inchworm products from 15 years ago, they were build for both the 3.4L and 4.0L drivetrains. The Transmission adapter was the only thing that changed based of if it was a manual or auto.