Betterbuckleup's 2000 taco build & BS

I don't remember having any issue with that line kinking. I'm not sure exactly how I routed it, but I think I used fuel line for the replacement lines to run it through the TB

 

Dang more axel issues??

 

Hmm. The barb off of the throttle body points directly back at the supercharger casting. I had some coolant hose that might have been able to make the radius, but didn't have any clamps that would fit it so I just ended up using the fuel hose and that elbow.
The LCE instructions of course mention nothing about having to deal with coolant lines....

Hopefully the last of them.

 

It’s pretty wild that a product that cost so much has issues like that. I bought a set at the same time and had the same issues. Shame on them

 

made some progress. Still got more progress to make.

lots of it!!!

no! Lol. Maybe 2024

nailed it!

 

KOH was a blast as always. Didn't take many pictures this year. Was just having a good time.
Played chase truck for the mean street racing team when they broke their knuckle off the front axle.


I took my topper off so I could rip around the desert more without worrying about it flying off or breaking.
Pretty happy with where the truck is at now and how it handles the smaller whoops and chop. A tune in the rear would definitely make it even better.
The SC was nice to have, but I can't really even use all the power it makes now in that terrain because my suspension can't keep up.


Rented an R-pod camper trailer on the way there which made the trip so much better. Full kitchen, bathroom, and 2 queen beds with a pop out.


The truck towed it fine at sea level, but I had to be a lot more careful with where the RPMs were and building boost as to prevent the motor from pinging or knocking too hard. The trailer is claimed to weigh something like 2600lbs dry, but I think it was closer to 3k when kitted out. I wouldn't wanna tow any more weight than that above sea level with my truck.

 

Since being back, have had to do some more truck stuff.

Noticed that I was ripping the rear shock crossmember. Prob from towing the trailer and then ripping around the desert without care.
Mostly my fault though with how I mounted that tube by cutting it in half and leaving the bottom open end of it un-welded.

So I drilled the ends of the cracks and grooved them before welding them up. To prevent it from happening again, I added a tube gusset that runs down to the frame plate.
I hate notching tube with an angle grinder.








Also pulled my RCV axles AGAIN. Somehow a small tiny metal shaving poked through the outer rubber boot on both sides. It was a tiny hole, but still enough for them both to sling grease around the wheel well. I think it might have come from inside the axle. Never had that happen before or heard of that happening. Fortunately RCV said they would warranty them. So I put a spare set in until I get them back.



I replaced my fuel filter as more of a preventative measure. I'm glad I did because turns out it was backwards and flowing the wrong direction. Not sure what that would do performance-wise, but can't be doing any good that way. Used OEM this time so should be good for a while now. I was worried I wasn't going to be able to do it with my UCA double shear brackets, but I was able to get in there and do it with very little mess.


Also cleaned the IAC as I'm still chasing some weird idle issues. It was pretty clean so don't believe that has anything to do with it....


On the drive to and from hammers, the rear of my muffler started to blow out. So I had the exhaust shop throw in a new high flow magnaflow. Won't be that shiny for long.

 

I just want to visit this for a second, any knocking or pinging under load that you can hear is bad bad news, the pinging you cannot hear is bad enough. Are you logging drives on your computer from the haltech, those are zones that need to be changed, you probably need reduced timing in those load cells.

 

Well thanks for this post, now I'll be worrying about my crossmembers ripping off LOL!!

 

I have been messing around with timing in that area, but I'm trying not to get it to low single digits of timing and then lose all my power. This is the area where it's most prominent. Especially in 3rd gear, if I matt the pedal in that RPM range it'll rattle pretty good.


I'm thinking it might be exhaust related. Since I have a 3" intake on it with a big filter, I can't scavenge the gases fast enough to keep up with how much it's breathing.
I ordered an LCE header and test pipe to put in and hopefully that will help. I've upped the pipe to 2.5in everywhere else.

If the exhaust doesn't help like I'm hoping it will, then I'm not sure what else to do other than retard the hell out of the timing and/or swap to a elite 1500 for knock control

 

They better not with those beefy new rear frame pieces!

 

Yeah that is a rough range to be loading it down in, I would be dropping down a gear if I have to push it hard there with the 4 banger. Sounds like you know what to do though, but I would try to correct that pretty fast, it doesn't take much knock under boost to start/cause component failure. You can also richen it up a bit to drop the heat down, I don't know what AFR you're commanding there but if it isn't in the 10s or something drastic you can probably richen more. And are you using O2 long term trimming and have you tuned transient throttle response?

 

yea it's also been sort of a relearning process on how to drive the truck with the new power but still being a 4 cyl and w/out knock control. More power, but still limited in that regard as to how much of a load it can handle in the low end.

targeting mid to high 12's in that zone so could stand to richen it up some, but don't wanna loose too much mpg. There's tradeoffs whichever way you take it. I'm not using LT O2 trim. Transient throttle is mostly there. Just a few small behaviors to work out on that front

 

I personally would be closer to 11.5-11.8 in that zone, it's not worth it to be trying for MPG in a high load cell, that's not where you cruise and your trade off is a lunched engine for an extra .5mpg under heavy load. I'd consider using the LT trimming as well to really iron out your base fuel map, that way it is meeting your AFR demand accurately

 

Ya fair enough. I'll check out the LT trim.
Hopefully the header and test pipe help free things up to where I can put some timing back into it and lean it back out a bit.

 

I just want to be clear here that you absolutely shouldn't be leaning any of this out in any of these ranges this is where your engine is accelerating it is not where you're cruising. If anything you should be a lot richer in these zones. Whoever tuned this left at negligently lean in very key areas I would be wary of running it as it is.

My buddy who's a tuner and I were discussing it a little bit earlier. Maybe your tuner just forgot to touch these zones because they should be in the high tens low 11s for AFR. You don't get to have good miles per gallon when you make a small engine work hard you only get to have a lean burn in low load zones which is typically cruising but you just won't ever be in cruising zones with large tires and a trailer with the 2.7.

 

Gotcha. Appreciate the feedback because I've only been working with one guy who's been helping me with the tune. He's much more knowledgeable than me about these motors in terms of tuning, but there's obviously only so much you can achieve doing it remote and not being able to hear the motor (let alone no knock control).
Every setup is different obviously, but he told me that he typically doesn't have to pull as much timing out of the tune in that area as he has had to with mine.
I'm still working on fine tuning it from the state he helped me get it to.

There is a sweet spot between mpg and power though. I just don't know where that is. I'll try some richer AFR's in that area and see how it does. 10's does seem a bit high for 0-3psi range though.

 

Are you only running a max of 3psi? You may still need to be in the 11s for that but I was under the impression from Tyler you had the LCE high boost pulley on

 

I am running high boost. I've seen as high as 11.9 psi at 5900rpm.
I just meant in that 0-3psi range of load cells.
Sometimes if the engine is too rich at too low RPM and map, the power can lay down drastically.

 

Here’s the timing map I used for both my boosted 2.7 motors. It was from a guy that made 400whp on a turbocharged stock bottom end. The main parts that need to be adjusted is the transition into boost since yours is s/c. Also, manifold pressure on this chart is in kpa so you’d need to do the conversion to your psi/mmHg.