Bilstein 6112

Anyone heard how the 6112's are with a front bumper like ARB or steel Pelfreybilt?

Wheelers has upgraded springs you can buy separately for the 6112 shocks.....wondering if they are actually needed.

 

Finally got my 5160's installed this weekend. These things were a lot beefier than I thought they would be.

Install wasn't too bad, the lower shock mount was tight and took some grease to get everything positioned right. Installing the resi brackets was also a bit of a pain, but all in all everything was pretty easy.

 

Pics to go with my post above:

Front = Bilstein 6112's set at 3rd setting.
Rear = Bilstein 5160's & SumoSprings

Now time to get some new tires and wheels.

 

I'm looking for this exact setup, is there a reason you bolted the remote reservoir to the frame instead of to the main shock body? (If memory serves me they provide spacers and hose clamps to join the two)

 

Would.

Looks fantastic.

Also considering sumosprings

 

Good question, yes there is a reason... I initially spend $90 on the billet aluminum Bilstein clamps to attach the reservoir to the main shock, and when I went to put them on the truck, the metal housing on the top, that kind of surrounds the top where you bolt the shock, was in the way and wouldn't allow the reservoir to be mounted next to the shock.... Was wondering why I hadn't seen any pics mounted next to each other... Now I know. Had to take a loss on the billet clamps and sell them on eBay.

 

Ahh got it. I kinda figured when I saw the pictures. I know the brackets are long gone, so I'm just kind of spitballing here, but from your memory would it not be possible to mount them lower on the main shock body?

 

Yeah, you could probably move them down a couple inches down the main shock body, that might work. It is worth noting the mounting option that they send for our specific 5160, is the single bracket style like in the picture.... You'll have to buy the additional clamps to mount them to the main shock like I did... Just more $$$

 

The extended length is the same as full droop remained the same switching from 5100's to 6112's. I didn't measure collapsed though but that may be irrelevant at least for me. Take a look at post #93 on page 5. I have more details and a picture of shocks side by side. My guess is if you don't have any added weight up front the #4 position would net you close to 2.3 -2.4". I'm on the 3rd position and still showing about 2". That said if your happy with the 5100's as I was just leave them for a few more years. Mine lasted almost 5 years and never did figure out why they made this clacking noise but switching them out took care of it. I was ready to buy another set till I saw this thread. The 5100's in the rear are still working good.

 

Warning: Potentially stupid question inbound.

I noticed yesterday that one of my 5160's had twisted ever so slightly so that the angle of the reservoir line wasn't quite what it was when I installed them. To my surprise, I could actually twist the body of the shock by hand even though the bolts are still on and snug.

Is that normal, or do I need to re-tighten the upper shock mount bolt?

Example of what I'm talking about:

 

Just went in my garage and checked... If I grab the shock body, I can twist/torque it about 1/16" - 1/8", but it twist back into place... looks like you may need to tighten up your top bolt/nut a bit. Be careful not to tighten to much though... don't want to break it off.

 

Normal. Mine is the same way, the hose resistance will keep it in the position that's most comfortable to keep it from binding or loosening up the bungs. Tightening won't do anything to it except max out compression on the bushings.

 

Mine are the same. Because the housing is not bolted to the frame, its just snugged between the bushings. It shouldn't move much, and if it does, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

So I have the 5100's in a box and have been looking at this thread. I'm really not looking for lift, just a better ride to be honest. Am I correct is reading that the 6112 at the lowest setting will give a little lift, but ride much better? Also, since I have 5100s for the rear, I should just stick with them because they are better riding as well? And what about these sumosprings? Are they for lift or comfort?

 

Will try to answer this in parts:

1) Looks like you have a TRD Off-road... So the 5100 are essentially the same shock as your stock 4600 that came on your truck. They are valved the same, the 5100's just add the capability of ride height adjustment, and come with a boot... And are silver. That's why most people say it's a waste of $$$ to change them out for the rear; there's no benefit, same shock, and can't adjust rear height. If you haven't installed the 5100's for the rear, you nay want to think about the 5160's, as they are a better ride than the 5100's, because of the remote reservoir, allowing for more travel.

2) The 6112 is vastly superior shock compared to the 5100, or the 4600 for that matter. The diameter is 60 mm (I believe) so it's so much bigger than than both the others, allowing for better dampening, better heat dispersion, etc. which all equals a better/smoother ride.

3) The 6112's set at the first notch height will add a small amount of lift, around 1/2" I think, maybe a little more. This is because, unlike the 5100's, the 6112's come with their own set of springs.

4) SumoSprings, which I have, are primarily for load capacity... That is to say they replace the factory bump stop, and act more or less like a airbag, but without the air. So when you're carrying a heavy load or trailer, your rear end doesn't sag as much... So it kind of helps distribute the extra weight, more or less. A side effect of installing SumoSprings is a rear end lift of about 5/8" when the bed is empty and not towing. So, if you're like me, and wanted a level truck, you set the front 6112's to the third notch and gain a little over 1 1/2" up front, and the SumoSprings (which I do use for towing) raise the rear end 5/8", and the rear end is already 1" factory rake above the front end before that, you get a level truck without having to Install a aftermarket leafe pack or block set... Kinda like killing two birds with one stone. I get the added benefit of the SumoSpring when towing, and a level truck when everyday driving.
The rear end ride is stiffened however with the SumoSprings, since the frame rest on them in the rear (i.e. the lift without load) and they don't compress easily, the ride is a bit harder, on the rear end at least, but not by much, and I consider the gains worth any loss in ride comfort.

Hope this helps.

 

Look at the 5125s for the rear also. It is of a quality between the 5100 and 5160. I am running them right now with 6112s in the front.

 

So, for a 3rd Gen what amount of lift am I looking at?

How does raising it to a higher notch affect ride quality?

And, when these eventually need to be revalved, is the only option to take them off and send them to bilstein leaving me without a truck to drive during that time?

 

Not exactly! The 5100 shock body is bigger than stock and is a bit longer for added travel (at least the fronts) They are an improvement over stock for sure. I still have mine in the rear and going strong after 5.5 years. Look at post 93 for a comparison of all three side by side. The 6112's which I have in the front now are a BIG improvement for sure, but I was happy with the 5100's up front until they started making noise after 5 years though. If I had them in the box now I would put them in again without a doubt. The ride is good and you will get several years at least out of them depending on usage.
Bulldog if I were you I would install the fronts on the 2nd position which will give the front approx 0.8" lift. You will notice an improvement in ride and more level look. The 3rd gens already have 1" lift over the 2nd gens right? The rear is optional. Unless you have another grand or so to burn? Then get the 6112/5160 combo for sure. my $0.02

 

Icon's monotube shocks would be a good match for the 6112 IMO.

 

Has anyone who is a 4x4 have/used the 6112 with Toytec's Aluminum top mount? Anyone know if it increases preload? I'm considering doing that and setting them on the 3rd setting, hopefully getting around 2.25-2.5.