Bilstein 6112

I havent figured it out yet. Everything is torqued and seems good. Upon lowering my driver side cir clip i noticed the rod adapter spacer moves around. Im thinking its that.

 

So I figured it out! It was YouTube’s fault lol. Nah, I’m an idiot… the lock nut was not tightened down enough on both passenger and driver side. I initially tightened it while the truck was jacked up… everything is almost 50% more smooth of a ride. Also snugged the rear 5160’s…

 

Glad you figured it out!

 

Well had 6112s and 5160 installed at State 48 Overland \ AZ toy pros. I had 5100s front on stock coils and 5100s in the rear,
I absolutely love the ride the ride at first they felt a tad firmer ( same lift as the 5100s ) but took big hits way better .
Now that it has been about a month they ride better than before .

 

They ride stiff at slow speeds, my E rated tires don’t help with that. They ride really well and my truck handles great driving 30+ mph on washboard roads. Mine are set at 2” with the included coils.

 

Let's say I get a set of the 6112 with 600lb springs for my 2016 truck

What sort of notch should I go for to level it? No winches, bumpers, extra lights etc just stock

 

Depends on how sagged the rear is.

The more sagged the more it will droop with load as well.

So you'd do measurements and refer to the clip chart.

Old leafs I'd recommend 1" rake to rear just so when you load it, you aren't pointing at the moon.

 

The guy had them on his 2008? and claimed it was level so my spitball guesstimate was they'd be stock height on my truck, or a little higher.

 

I mean your rear axle fender height.

 

the lock nut on the steering tie rod? or is it on the sway bar? I've been getting a similar clank. I don't have 6112s, but I'm wondering what i should check.

 

the nut that holds the shock in place at the top of the shock

 

oooooof

 

So I've done some reading and wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything, so advice/constructive criticism is wanted. I mostly mud and off road and will only being doing rock climbing in rare circumstances as it isn't my thing. I currently have a stock 2020 Tacoma TRD Off-Road. I will also be upgrading my tires to the 255/85/16 Cooper ST MAXX. Down the line I would like to get a new front/back bumper but that is at least a year away.

I am wanting to get the Bilstein 6112/5160 on the #5 /#6 notch, 600lb coil. I will be upgrading my UCA with the Icon Dynamics Delta Joint (still thinking either SPC or TC) and the Deavers Expedition Leaf Pack Stage two. I will have an A.R.E. topper on my truck with maybe 200 extra pounds in the back the majority of the time. I've decided not to do the differential drop.

I'm wanting to do a 1.5" - 2" lift on my vehicle and trying to keep the rake or level it out with the amount of stuff I will have in the back. This is what I've been able to come up with and wanted to make sure I'm crossing t's and doting i's.

Appreciate it

 

I did similar but on the 10/8 setting with the newer Bilsteins and did Icon RTX Option 2.

Things I would add/consider:

• Do the ECGS bushings now since you have it apart anyway (replaces needle bearing on front driver side wheel bearings)
• Get new bump stops. I did Durabumps front and back. Huge help especially if you have weight in back and offroading so when you bottom out you've got support.
• The Icons came with a bracket to move the rear brake line. Not sure if Deavers include that. It just let you move the break line down about an inch from where it is not to accommodate the lift in rear. May not be needed. My mechanic used it.
• This part I don't fully understand. My mechanic and where I bought everything from told me to get a "Bearing Drop". It was like $15. No idea how or where it was used!
• Optional - do the u-bolt flip kit in the rear. If you mud it might help from stuff getting dragged/stuck onto the rear u-bolts since they are now pointed up.
• Last, I would consider doing the 5/4 setting and using 650# springs. Less pre-compression on the 6112s and the 650# springs will give you the extra 0.5" back. I tried both and noticed no diff in ride quality between 600/650# springs (other than pain to wallet). Especially if you plan to add a front bumper later.

 

I assume you are staying with your original wheels since you are going with the skinny 33s?

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to give me this advice, I appreciate it and will add these to the list

Yes, I wanted to keep my wheels for now.

Thank you and once I get everything re-arranged, I will message you.

 

Most likely a carrier bearing drop kit, helps keep the 2 piece drive shaft from being on too much of an angle from the carrier to the 3rd member which tends to cause vibrations and shutters on takeoff. Keeping driveline angles fairly in line helps reduce this in 2 piece drive shafts. This is a super common problem for lifted tacomas. Its a $20 spacer you use to re-bolt the carrier bearing back to the frame. HIGHLY recommend it unless you already have a one piece drive shaft. OME makes one and most places carry it.

 

FYI several of us bought thru HotShot. Top Notch. Everything arrived for me in a timely manner and got great advice. THem combined with my mechanic I'm really happy with the results. I am not that mechanically inclined so I learned a lot.

Only other thing I thought of which you might already be aware of is that if you get the skinny 33" tires, you might have some rubbing and may need a cab mount chop. That is a whole other can of worms to research. I am still on stock tires but have decided when I get new ones I am only going to 275/65/15 (32" or 1" up from stock) to keep rotational weight down and am 99% sure I will have zero issues on clearance.

 

I appreciate that, trying to get everything in order as this is my first lift on a vehicle and then get with this member.

After reading this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-skinny-on-skinny-tires.529656/ I figured there would be no rubbing, since there wasn't any rubbing on stock setup. I'll go through it and see if changing out the UCA or other lift problems might cause it to rub. Thank you for suggesting that, gonna do a bit more reading.