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bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by bjmoose, Sep 28, 2010.

  1. Jan 21, 2014 at 8:06 AM
    #201
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    ------------------------------------------------------------ Stabilus.EZDown.Tailgate http://www.ezdown.com/home.php ----------------------------------------------- Tekonsha.Primus.IQ.Trailer.brake http://www.tekonsha.com/content/default.aspx---------------------------------------------------------------- Leer 180 CC http://www.leer.com/Truck-Caps#------------------------------------------------ Firestone Air Rite Air Bags--------------------------------------Kargomaster Rack
    So do you really need to do brake lines with this kit? I am not going to be rock crawling this rig.

    What other things where needed that did not come with the kit? So far I see it is sway bar lowering brackets and U-bolts for leaf springs. Anything else?
     
  2. Jan 21, 2014 at 8:28 AM
    #202
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    3" OME lift (HD), LR UCAs, All-Pro Sliders, All-Pro APEX Front Bumper w/PIAA 530 Fogs, All-Pro Skidplate, 1" diff drop, vent visors, OCTaco Braided Lines, baby seat (forward-facing)
    Get extended lines. You never know when you'll extend the front or rear and damage the oem stuff.

    Sway bar is over-rated. Delete.

    My kit came with u-bolts.
     
  3. Jan 21, 2014 at 10:06 AM
    #203
    totmacher

    totmacher Well-Known Member

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    BHLM, Flowmaster 50 series, TRD CAI, Hoen all weather fog bulbs, window tint, LED interior lights (cupholder & floor), exterior LED courtesy lights. OME/Dakar lift. 50W reverse lights. Painted wheels.
    My sway bar was fine. After about a year I completely removed the sway bar and I think it rides smoother now. Think about how far the axle might droop if a tire shop lifts truck by frame rather than axle. I checked it. Stock rear brake lines pull rather tight. Some bridge transitions and other hwy bumps can cause a lot of extension. I thought it was a risk not worth taking so got rear lines. My leafs from Toytec had ubolts included.
     
  4. Jan 28, 2014 at 10:09 AM
    #204
    DESTROYERRACER

    DESTROYERRACER Well-Known Member

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    2010 Reg Cab 4x4, de-flapped, OME 884s/90000s, Wheelers leaf packs/Bilsteins, Audi A8 headlights, 255/85-16 Cooper ST Maxx's, 8 inch Type R sub, JL door speakers, 1000 watt amp, carbon filter nixxed and K and N air filter because its not dusty here and I do ALL my own work
    so regular cab 2nd gen guys.....how are the OME front coils holding up over time?I have the wheelers HD leaf packs out back with billy shocks....did that first due to breaking a rear leaf spring awhile back.have stupid rake right now but knew id be upgrading front eventually which is coming up soon now.i was thinking of 884s with top plate to keep some down travel instead of 885s as I wont see armor for quite awhile but want to lift and bring her close to or level in the front.thoughts?!I did remove the overload spring from the leafs and am still netting about 3 inches higher in the rear.dont want a super stiff front though or bro lean but also dont want the front to sag or settle too much over time
     
  5. Feb 3, 2014 at 9:25 PM
    #205
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    I don't know of anyone who has measured, but it seems like if you also replace the UCA, then you'll get a bit more droop with 884s and a small top plate.

    The most uncomfortable aspect of my 885 reg cab lift is on pavement going over expansion joints, speed bumps, etc - anything where the suspension tops out and the truck ends up dropping off the small bump.

    And that's after adding quite a bit of weight in tools, winch mount, skids, etc...
     
  6. Feb 3, 2014 at 9:27 PM
    #206
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    OME 885x , OME shocks and Dakars , Wheelers SuperBumps front and rear , 275/70/17 Hankook ATm , OEM bed mat , Weathertech digifit floor liners , Weathertech in-channel vents , headache rack , Leer 100RCC commercial canopy , TRD bedside decals removed , Devil Horns by Andres , HomerTaco Satoshi


    Agree
     
  7. Feb 4, 2014 at 5:38 AM
    #207
    totmacher

    totmacher Well-Known Member

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    BHLM, Flowmaster 50 series, TRD CAI, Hoen all weather fog bulbs, window tint, LED interior lights (cupholder & floor), exterior LED courtesy lights. OME/Dakar lift. 50W reverse lights. Painted wheels.
    I've had 885 on my access cab for 14 months. Same complaint about exp joints and speed bumps. I will say that since removing the sway bar maybe 2 months ago, the ride has smoothed out a lot more. Also, hit bumps at an angle so both fronts don't slam down at the same time.
     
  8. Mar 13, 2014 at 1:36 PM
    #208
    buzhazzard

    buzhazzard Dad

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    Wet Okole set covers, Weathertech floor mats, blacked out tail lights, leer cap, OME 885s in front and leaf pack in rear with AAL, bhlm, all pro sliders, Pioneer head unit, rear plate bumper, US Off Road hidden winch mount, 10k lb winch
    ordering soon. sub'd for reference.

    great write-up!
     
  9. Mar 16, 2014 at 6:10 PM
    #209
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    Steve, another thanks for your guide. It was nice to find the relevant torque specs in one place.

    If you haven't already seen them, the MOOG LCA cam bolt kit would be a nice addition to your OP.
     
  10. Mar 16, 2014 at 7:40 PM
    #210
    bjboucher

    bjboucher Mama says Tacoma World is da devil!

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    Brad
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    OME complete kit w/ 885s on Nitrocharger Sports, 1/4" spacers, Dakars w/ Nitrocharger Sports, LR UCAs, 265/70-17, Duratracs, G4 Elite tonneau, Weathertech Window Deflectors, Weathertech digital floor liners, factory JBL/Entune, rear differential breather relocate.
    I've installed 2 sets of Dakars now and as long as you have buddy there to help, you should be able to get the bolts in without using the bottle jack method mentioned. Both times we were able to maneuver them into place and get all the bolts in without too much effort. It's definitely a 2 man job though to get them in there without a lot of difficulty.
     
  11. Mar 16, 2014 at 7:57 PM
    #211
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    I did mine by myself without any problems. Two things helped.

    1. As Steve said, get the axle as low as possible so you have room to work. Having the truck sitting fairly high also helps put the job at a more comfortable position.

    2. Leave the rear shackle bolts loose so it pivots freely, allowing easy movement of the spring.
     
  12. May 9, 2014 at 5:12 PM
    #212
    Teagan141

    Teagan141 Well-Known Member

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    finally found someone that did a write up on brake lines thank you i found this very difficult to search for:D
     
  13. Jul 1, 2014 at 7:57 PM
    #213
    Gadget

    Gadget New Member

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    I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question, but how long were your replacement brake lines?
     
  14. Jul 10, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #214
    Cape Codder

    Cape Codder Native Son

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    Thanks Steve, Ive read your detailed write up a number of times. Well done.
    Apparently I had a brain fart each time I read the above quote from your OP.
    Now that I'm researching Brake Line replacement, it's pretty glaring.
    Was it the metal brake line you clamped?
    If so, what was the resolution to the destruction?
    Have you realized a non-destructive technique? Threaded plug, cap, etc.?
    Thanks again for making us non-mechanics' lives a little easier.



    CC
     
  15. Jul 25, 2014 at 4:52 PM
    #215
    Cape Codder

    Cape Codder Native Son

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    Nevermind.......................

    [​IMG]


    S.U.R. & R FLS330 Fluid Line Stopper
    +/- Thirty Bucks, Shipped.......... HERE
    Eastwood has them too, for more moola.
    I'll let ya know how the work in a month or two
    Thanks again for the write-up.



    CC

     
  16. Jul 25, 2014 at 5:28 PM
    #216
    bjboucher

    bjboucher Mama says Tacoma World is da devil!

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    I just let mine drip. Didn't lose that much fluid and was better than clamping brake lines in my opinion.
     
  17. Jul 25, 2014 at 6:59 PM
    #217
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    Same here. You'd have to be awfully slow to have more fluid drip out than is held in the reservoir, and air isn't going to enter the system until the reservoir runs dry. Clamping a hard line will damage it, and clamping a hose may weaken it. If I feel the need, I slip a simple rubber plug or cap on the end of the hard line. Small sets of plugs and caps are available in many parts stores, and they come in handy.
     
  18. Jul 25, 2014 at 7:56 PM
    #218
    bjboucher

    bjboucher Mama says Tacoma World is da devil!

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    Yeah, I was going pretty slow and just made sure the reservoir stayed full. Was pretty messy but no damage done. Just kept my oil catch pan underneath while I was working. If you get OCTaco lines it should go quicker and be less messy. I had to grind the opening for one side of the lines using Wheeler's lines which slowed things down.
     
  19. Jul 25, 2014 at 8:00 PM
    #219
    DoorDing

    DoorDing Thank you, Nancy Roman

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    I wasn't happy with the way the Crown brake hoses I bought through ToyTec fit. The included retention clips didn't engage the brackets properly, and the OEM clips didn't work, either. I found a better solution.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Jul 25, 2014 at 8:38 PM
    #220
    bjmoose

    bjmoose [OP] Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Steve
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    Looks like you've solved it - but I clamped the original factory soft lines, since I was going to discard them anyway. No, don't destructively clamp the hard lines. That would be bad. :eek: :D
     
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