bjmoose installs full OME kit & rear brake lines with pics

I was thinking about that. But wheelers 1.5" packs are $100 more expensive and I dont know where else to look for leafs. All I've seen is the dakars, and i need something that will be close to the OME front end. Err on the side of bro lean rather than rake.

 

I agree with oz. check out the ironman leaf pack for 2" of lift. In sure you could remove both leafs from the dakars if you really want

Whoops thought you were second gen nevermind i gatta stop doing that

 

Still debating. Because I have seen a few trucks on here with the OME setup and dakars where the front end is higher, and I have seen some with dakars where the rear is higher. Not sure what to go with

 

By the time you add bushings and U bolts to the Dakar price there is an approx $50 difference

Maybe you should just get an AAL

 

Who

 

But I would still have to get extended u-bolts and new bushings for the wheelers pack too... AAL wont work because the pack on my '00 is frowning

 

Stop the presses

I never saw that you were a first gen before

 

Yup 1st gen. So I need new leafs. "travis9287" is my favorite 1st gen with OME, slightly higher in the front.

 

OME gallery, last post also looks like its slightly higher in the front. Black 2nd gen

 

Looks level to me



but in all honesty , I don't know much about the 1st Gen OME set ups

 

He's parked uphill , looks nose high in the stock pic too , no ?

 

Remove a leaf from the dakar pack i guess

 

Could be. Worst comes to worst I just remove the leaf and get some 10mm top plate spacers for the front

 

There are two ways to buy the Dakars. Either stock or with an added leaf.

The stock Dakar pack will likely be fine with the OME's up front. If you want help, I'd call Wheeler's. I cannot say enough good things about their help. It's great!

 

moose said something about clamping the brake line to prevent air getting to master cylinder...

I thought it was a simple remove/replace for the lines and the only way you'd get air in the master cylinder was if you let it go dry. So as long as the reservoir doesn't go empty while replacing the lines, things are fine even without clamping, right? Isn't a gravity bleed the same thing as having an open line?

Also, what size are the threads on the lines? There are caps/plugs available so you don't have to clamp. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,extras,1,subgroup,Fitting+-+Plug,parttype,267

 

Awesome post man! Super in depth and just what i needed to instal my lift me and my dad will be doing it together hes a Heavy Duty Mechanic so it should be a breeze with these instructions. I am just wondering if you installed new UCA's or if your stock ones were fine and they aligned back to stock? Did you go with the 2" or 3" lift and did your stock driveline length change dramatically or was it all good?

 

My alignment after was about roughly 0 degrees of caster. So after driving "twitchy" for about a year, I finally changed to the Light Racing UCAs.

Didn't change anything at all on the driveline length.

 

I loosened the mounting bolts for the center bearing on the driveshaft and the bracket moved back maybe 1/8-1/4 inch on my access cab. Moose's regular cab is 1pc driveshaft so maybe it didn't matter much there. My access cab is 2pc.

My caster is almost 0 on stock UCAs. Noticably twitchy steering but drivable. I'm getting new UCA soon.

Noticed that it took about 1000 miles to break in the 885 front springs. They seemed too stiff at first but are better now.

 

so the new UCA's would compensate the twitchy steering? and bring it back to stock handling are both of your lifts 2"

 

Yes

They allow for caster to be adjusted correctly