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Bleading brakes???

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ETaco23, Mar 6, 2010.

  1. Mar 6, 2010 at 10:46 AM
    #1
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    Color Match Grille, Bed mat, Icon's with JBA UCA's, Dakars and 295 BFG KO2, Bora 1" spacers, Snugtop Canopy, and my "Marshall Fabrication" Rock Sliders.
    Ive searched and didnt find anything on how much fluid I would need If I am Installing new lines. Any help appreciated...
    And Is this job farely easy? or should I have a shop do it? Im also doing my brakes (rotors and pads) thanks!
     
  2. Mar 6, 2010 at 11:05 AM
    #2
    SManZ

    SManZ el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

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    Edit; Just saw you have a Gen I, so the how-to may not help you. The general idea is the same. If you work on one set of disc brakes you can generally do them all. The brake line setup may be different too. The Gen II uses clips to attach lines to brackets.

    __________________________

    You'll need about a bottle of brake fluid if you know what you're doing. I'd get 2 or 3 just to be safe. They're just $2.70 a bottle at Wal-Mart.

    Check this thread for a good how-to for your front brake pads. Its pretty easy. Follow the pad removal process, then move the calipers out of the way to pull the rotors off. After you install the rotors and calipers, continue with the directions in the how-to for the pad installation.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/38025-diy-front-brake-pad-change.html

    The brake lines will require a bit more skill. If you haven't bled brakes before I'd recommend finding a friend that has to help you. Bleeding brakes is easier with 2 people anyway.

    I also recommend getting these tools;
    -C-clamp - for compressing pistons into the caliper when changing pads
    -Flare nut wrenches (line wrenches) - I've messed up the brake line fittings before using standard open-end wrenches. A line wrench is a worthwhile investment. $35 for a set of 5 at Sears. You'll need a 10mm for the brake line fittings.
    -Bent nose pliers for removing the clips that hold the brake lines in their brackets. This is especially useful for the rear.

    Some other tips;
    -For the rear lines, loosen (but don't remove) the 2 12mm bolts that hold the bracket for the upper end of the brake lines. Moving the bracket around will give you enough space to loosen the upper brake line fittings.

    -Loosen the fittings first before you start and then gently snug them so they don't leak fluid. Then remove clips, and lines.

    -When you install lines, install them from the upper side first. Brake fluid will drip through the new line. By the time you install the bottom end the line will be mostly filled with fluid, reducing the amount of air you have to bleed out.

    -For the rear lines, roll the rear of the truck up onto ramps and remove the spare tire. This should give you enough room to sit up underneath the truck.

    -After you bleed lines, have someone firmly press the brake pedal. Check the fittings for any leaks. You have to torque them down a good bit to get a good seal.
     
  3. Mar 6, 2010 at 11:12 AM
    #3
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

    Joined:
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    13' Pyrite Mica TRD Offroad DCSB 4x4
    Color Match Grille, Bed mat, Icon's with JBA UCA's, Dakars and 295 BFG KO2, Bora 1" spacers, Snugtop Canopy, and my "Marshall Fabrication" Rock Sliders.
    THANKS A BUCH ! I think Im ganna wait on the lines and just have a shop do it. I havent done lines and dont want to scew something up. But I know I can do the pads and rotors. :)
     
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