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Bleeding order

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by DustyGreenTaco, Jan 17, 2020.

  1. Jan 17, 2020 at 9:33 PM
    #1
    DustyGreenTaco

    DustyGreenTaco [OP] Member

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    I changed some brake parts including lines and had To bleed the brake lines... my uncle “pro home mechanic” was helping me and didn’t say anything when the brake master was going dry. I added brake fluid later that day. Everything feels spongy now including my clutch.... what order should I bleed everything?

    Master- brake lines- clutch?

    I’ve heard and read on here that letting it go dry can mess it up.How will I know if it’s toast?


    I bled the lines that day but not the master because I didn’t have the kit and ran out of time. I want to re-bleed everything when I have time. does it matter what order I bleed everything as long as I keep fluid in the res?

    thanks
     
  2. Jan 17, 2020 at 11:01 PM
    #2
    BiNiaRiS

    BiNiaRiS Well-Known Member

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    someone correct me if i'm wrong but the bleed order is:

    right rear.
    left rear.
    BPV (brake proportioning valve).
    right front.
    left front.
     
    DustyGreenTaco [OP] and Blue92 like this.
  3. Jan 17, 2020 at 11:02 PM
    #3
    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

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    Furthest to closest bleeder.
     
  4. Jan 17, 2020 at 11:07 PM
    #4
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    1. Master lines x2
    2. RR LR RF LF,

    I'm a professional and I don't always worry too much with that order. I actually use a pressure bleeder, start with the fronts to get a large volume through, then rear, and fronts again last. I don't touch the valve in the rear simply due to rust in my area and its hard to replace.

    3. Clutch, its a bastard, no clutch is easy to bleed, just keep at it.
     
  5. Jan 18, 2020 at 7:42 PM
    #5
    cruisedon66

    cruisedon66 Well-Known Member

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    Did you replace parts or open any clutch lines?
    If all you did is Brake work.
    The clutch should still function normally.

    If you have problems bleeding the brakes. There may be air in the master cyl.
    Pull off a brake line at the master cyl. Put in a "bleeder kit" fitting in place of the line. Run the hose back into the master cyl. Add fluid and pump the brakes till no more air is seen.
    Replace the brake line.
    Bleed brakes starting with rear. You already know not to let the hole in the bottom of master draw air.
     
    DustyGreenTaco [OP] likes this.
  6. Jan 19, 2020 at 10:16 AM
    #6
    DustyGreenTaco

    DustyGreenTaco [OP] Member

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    Cool thanks for the responses guys... I need to pick up the master bleed kit. Was at work until 3am last night. I’ll check to see if my bpv is rusty. If it is then I’ll try to pick up a vac tool and just double bleed the front like bishop mentioned.

    I did not replace any clutch parts. So I’ll check for leaks. Hopefully it just air but since my truck is a 99 I wouldn’t be surprised if something is starting to leak a bit.
     
  7. Jan 19, 2020 at 10:32 AM
    #7
    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, pick yourself up a complete set of self bleeding bleeders and replace all of the OEM ones on the truck. You will never waste your time dinking around with factory ones again.
     
    DustyGreenTaco [OP] likes this.
  8. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:00 AM
    #8
    TacoTaco02

    TacoTaco02 Well-Known Member

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    Russell speed bleeders. I've got them on my Honda and they work okay.

    When I bleed the brake system I always go closest to farthest from the master cylinder.
     
    DustyGreenTaco [OP] likes this.
  9. Jan 19, 2020 at 11:11 AM
    #9
    BeLance89

    BeLance89 Well-Known Member

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    This. Start furthest from the master cylinder then work towards it.
     
    DustyGreenTaco [OP] likes this.

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