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Blue Sea Fuse Block Questions

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by TACORIDER, Dec 20, 2013.

  1. Dec 26, 2013 at 8:46 PM
    #41
    Newlife

    Newlife Well-Known Member

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    Once I get it all ran and installed hopefully tomorrow I will take you some pics and explain the hookups.
     
  2. Dec 26, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #42
    TACORIDER

    TACORIDER [OP] Just another statistic

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    Thanks Adam I really appreciate it
     
  3. Dec 26, 2013 at 9:00 PM
    #43
    Pcyc

    Pcyc Self Proclaimed Leader

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    Stinger makes 50Amp to 200AMp I currently run a 100 amp on my amplifiers.
     
  4. Dec 27, 2013 at 5:55 PM
    #44
    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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    The blue sea box is rated at 100 amps. This is why you should run a 100 amp breaker. If you run anything larger, then the fuse block will melt and catch fire during a bad short or fault before the breaker trips, which would defeat the purpose of the breaker.
     
  5. Dec 28, 2013 at 10:18 PM
    #45
    Pcyc

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    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pcyc-fj40-build.444289/ https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/pcycs-2nd-gen-build.308160/
    okay. in that case i will get a 100amp stinger breaker and save $75 bucks.
     
  6. Dec 28, 2013 at 10:51 PM
    #46
    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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    I have the Cooper Bussmann 100 amp breaker from Autozone. Ive seen many members use this model and it works great. water/weather proof and only $29.99.

    All Blue Sea Block are rated at 100amp per block max (30amp per circuit max). So if you had the 12 circuit block and ran a 30amp accessory on each circuit (360 amps) that would be fine but you cant have more than 3 things turned on at once. Get it? If your total block exceeds 100 amp draw then you risk damage to your components or the block and also risk a fire or even battery damage.

    This is why you want to limit the breaker to 100amp because that way if in the unlikely event you turn on more than 100 amps worth of stuff then your breaker will trip and protect everything. Its only a fail safe and also a reminder to you to not use more than 100a on the block.

    So anyone using a 150 or 200 amp breaker on your blue sea box might want to change that out because its a giant waste of money and space since its not protecting anything at all. Just a heads up
     
  7. Jul 12, 2016 at 8:47 PM
    #47
    ruffridha9

    ruffridha9 Well-Known Member

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    I'm so glad I found this thread.
    This electrical jargon is a whole new language to me, but Definately learning a bunch before I start working on my install, so thanks to all for sharing your insight.

    I see most folks use a fuse block with a ground post.
    My gf bought me one with out it.

    From the limited info I could find, sounds like this version (without ground post) makes it a little harder to troubleshoot in event of malfunction.
    Does anyone know of any another cons?

    Also, seeing as there is no negative post, can the grounds running from say lights be connected anywhere near them, Or should they run to the ground connected to the negative post of the battery, or even negative post of battery itself?

    Thanks in advance
     
  8. Aug 3, 2016 at 4:50 PM
    #48
    Toynado

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    Great info in this thread.

    What's the ideal guage wire to run between the block/relays & relays/switches?

    How do you know what size fuses to use? I'm assuming the lights (which are in order) will say but figured I'd ask here.
     
  9. Aug 4, 2016 at 1:53 PM
    #49
    Kohan21n

    Kohan21n A caffeine dependent life form - IG @dizzy.trd

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    +1 Would like to know these same questions also!

    Also looking for some pictures of the way you guys have the relays mounted. I am very picky and don't want a 'sloppy' look.
     
    Toynado[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Aug 4, 2016 at 2:38 PM
    #50
    DirtJumper14

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