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Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Pigpen, May 18, 2016.

  1. May 18, 2016 at 11:00 PM
    #1
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    I typed this up to help another member and we thought I should just post it. It's a pain in the ass job, but well worth the trouble. I used the Energy Suspension universal bushing kit and cab mount kit. I was motivated to do this because my cab was hitting my sliders. Before and after pics are at the bottom of this post.

    It's important to note that the top hat spacer I have on my 5100s to correct "Taco Lean" has me now in a reverse Taco Lean - driver side high. 12TRDTacoma has mentioned this before, but the lean is not a suspension problem. The extra weight smashes the body mount bushings more on the driver side, creating the lean. The top hat spacer fixes a symptom, not the problem.

    Edit: My Taco lean did eventually return. I went back to the top plate spacer solution. Still very happy I did the body mount bushing mod though.

    Energy part numbers:
    9.4101G (universal bushings I used for the radiator supports)http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN9BZ0
    8.4109G (Cab mount bushings)http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G1X9ZA6

    Pictured below is the full cab mount bushing kit

    [​IMG]

    In the pic below, we see the universal bushings (on the left) compared to the radiator bushings provided in the cab mount kit (on the right).

    [​IMG]


    This thread was my inspiration

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/polyurethane-radiator-support-mounts-cab-also.361346/

    Mad props to @12TRDTacoma for starting that thread.

    I didn't take pics because I was on a mission to get the job done. If someone can add pics to the thread, that would be helpful. Thanks for the pics @yotastaco !

    I used the universal bushing kit for my radiator support mounts, putting the larger part on top. For the cab mounts, I again used the larger part on top. Neither of these are necessarily recommended by Energy Suspension, but I am very happy with the outcome.

    I was so focused that I forgot to lube the bushings with Super Lube. I remembered on the radiator support bushings, and they are silent. My cab bushings are making noises - sliding, popping...(Edit: The noises are due to the bolts being over-torqued. Torque them to spec (34 ft/lb) and they should be silent)

    [​IMG]
    You'll need:

    Super Lube http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI
    10mm socket for misc bolts
    19mm socket for the bolt heads (I made it work with 13/16)
    17mm deep socket for the nuts - and a breaker bar or impact driver
    14mm shallow socket for the bushing bracket bolts.
    14mm box/ open end combo wrench and a larger size to extend for leverage
    floor jack and approx 16" piece of wood (4x4 is perfect, I used firewood)
    Wood shims - 2x4 will work, I used small split firewood
    BFH - Big Fucking Hammer, I have a 3 pound that seems to work well

    For my access cab I had to remove the plastic storage bin under the seats, popping all of the plastic rivets and removing the whole bin, just to access the plates covering the rear bolt heads. The plates are under the carpet in the corners. You'll need the 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts to get the covers off. There's a plastic or rubber grommet you pull out and you'll see the bolt head. Put on the 13/16 socket and wedge the ratchet so it will hit the wall of the cab when you loosen the nut. Crawl under the truck with your 17mm deep socket on a breaker bar and remove the nut. The bolt has a couple of tabs to make tightening it easier. Make sure the wings on the bolt head are clear of the tabs before applying your BFH later.

    double cab rear - access cab is a little different

    [​IMG]

    The front bolt is under the carpet. Starting next to the front seats, pull up the plastic covers along the edge of the door. Just pull starting at the back edge and working forward, it'll come up. Up in the foot well of the front seats there's a rubber piece in the corner that screws out (on the driver side it's under the "dead pedal" - just grab that and pull it). Once the rubber piece is off you can pull the triangular plastic cover off. Pull along the door edge, pulling toward the rear of the truck. Next, just pull back the carpet starting at the corner. You'll expose another grommet and remove it. Remove the nut from the bolt as you did for the rear.

    Front

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Remove the nut from all 4 bolts. Whichever side you're going to work on first, you'll want to remove the bolts. My fronts pulled out easy, the rears were seized. I sprayed the rears with penetrating oil from the top and bottom. Spray the 2 small bolts on each bushing bracket while you're down there.

    The pinch weld on the body makes a 90 degree turn just behind the rear mount. Use this as your lifting point with the floor jack and piece of wood. Lift a little to relieve any pressure on the rear bolt and whack that bastard with the hammer a few times, it should slide up and you can remove it. work on one side at a time so that the bolts on the other side keep the cab where it belongs.

    Lifting point

    [​IMG]

    Now things get sketchy.

    First, disconnect the ABS sensor under the hood from both sides. Yotastaco had the wires break at the connector while doing the front cab mounts (not radiator) - I feel lucky that the same didn't happen to me (dodged a bullet).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Lift the cab high enough to get a piece of wood between the frame and body toward the rear, but out of your way for working on the mount. I ended up lifting high enough to put 2 of my pieces in before I could get the rear mount out. My sliders really helped with holding the cab up using pieces of wood. Once you feel safe to put your hands between the frame and body, break the bushing bracket bolts loose. The nut is welded to the body mount. I used a 14mm wrench with a 17mm wrench hooked in to the open end for leverage to break them loose. Once you break them free you can use a ratchet and 14mm socket to remove the bolts. The bushing should now lift right out. Raise the body a little more if needed.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now do the same with the front. Leave your blocks in place (stack more if you can) while doing the front. You'll need to lift the rear pretty far to get the front bushing out.



    Put the bushing plate/ bracket on and tighten the bolts down (I used anti seize liberally on all bolts). Set the top bushing on and put the washer on it. The bolt should just drop in, lower the cab slightly if needed. Go to the back and do the same. Keep the body slightly elevated to keep the bolts moving freely. On the front, I wedged the socket on the bolt head for tightening so I could start the nut once all parts of the bushing were in place. I found you can hold the end of the bolt and slide the lower bushing pieces in place.

    [​IMG]

    The same works for starting the nut. The wings/ tabs on the rear bolt make this much easier. Once all parts are in place, you can lower the cab fully. Go to the other side and repeat the whole process. Once all 4 bolts are done you can tighten all of them. Tighten to 34 ft/lb. Check them after some driving.

    [​IMG]

    Here are the torque specs. Thanks @caribe makaira for finding the image!

    [​IMG]
    For those interested in replacing any of the stock nuts and bolts...

    [​IMG]

    If you're doing the radiator support mounts at the same time, I found that removing both the grill and the cosmetic bumper make the job much easier. It'll be obvious what you need to do once you can see those mounts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Before - you can see the line in the dirt where my pinch weld contacted the sliders.



    After



    Here's a video shared by @Benny123 . Thanks!!

    https://youtu.be/ch8f-uEy2Ok
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
    SR-71A, Grumpy, opentang and 27 others like this.
  2. May 18, 2016 at 11:10 PM
    #2
    SonnyBones

    SonnyBones I VOID WARRANTIES

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    Sub for when I conjure un the balls to do this to my 2015 access cab. Do you know if those cab mounts will work with the 2015 tacos? I've already gotten radiator support bushings.
     
    Blais03, GARSHA91 and David Loflin like this.
  3. May 18, 2016 at 11:12 PM
    #3
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    Yep, same as all 2nd gens
     
    AR15xAR10 likes this.
  4. May 18, 2016 at 11:13 PM
    #4
    SonnyBones

    SonnyBones I VOID WARRANTIES

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    Awesome!! It just seems like a lot of work! hahaha
     
    Pigpen [OP] likes this.
  5. May 21, 2016 at 7:26 PM
    #5
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    OP Use these if you'd like to make your post better. I'll add more tomorrow.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2016
  6. May 21, 2016 at 7:48 PM
    #6
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

    Joined:
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    2012 AC Manual 4.0 4x4 Base Model
    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    Awesome! Thanks!!
     
  7. May 21, 2016 at 7:52 PM
    #7
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    You're welcome. Also add a warning to disconnect the ABS sensor from both sides before raising the body.
     
  8. May 21, 2016 at 8:05 PM
    #8
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    2012 AC Manual 4.0 4x4 Base Model
    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    Interesting... that never occurred to me. Thankfully I didn't have any problems.
     
  9. May 21, 2016 at 8:08 PM
    #9
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    I speak from experience. :thumbsup:
     
    Pigpen [OP] likes this.
  10. May 21, 2016 at 8:15 PM
    #10
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    Did you disconnect the ABS sensors at the wheels, or an in line plug somewhere?
     
  11. May 21, 2016 at 8:18 PM
    #11
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    Inside the engine bay, it's really easy to access
     
    Pigpen [OP] likes this.
  12. May 21, 2016 at 8:19 PM
    #12
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    Now I have to ask... What was the problem that you ran into?
     
  13. May 21, 2016 at 8:20 PM
    #13
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    Snapped the ABS wire at the connector, easy soldering job, but avoidable.
     
  14. May 21, 2016 at 8:23 PM
    #14
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    I'm assuming this happened when you were doing the radiator supports?
     
  15. May 21, 2016 at 8:24 PM
    #15
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    Nope, actually the front body mount. Radiator supports were done a few days ago.
     
    Pigpen [OP] likes this.
  16. May 22, 2016 at 2:41 PM
    #16
    yotastaco

    yotastaco Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    ABS Sensor
    [​IMG]
    Unplug ABS Sensor and disconnect bracket
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2016
    AR15xAR10 and Crom like this.
  17. May 22, 2016 at 8:36 PM
    #17
    V5ioV

    V5ioV My drinking team has a wheeling problem

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    Sub....
     
  18. May 22, 2016 at 9:20 PM
    #18
    Crom

    Crom Outside

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    Nice write-up, and pics. Lube isn't required for these bushings according to ES...

    Since putting them in your truck, you hear noise from them ?
     
  19. May 22, 2016 at 10:10 PM
    #19
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    Access cab toolbox/ dog bed with seats and headrests deleted, waterproof TRD seat covers, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Toyo M55 load E tires on stock steel rims, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 27F battery, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, Cobra 75WXST cb with rear mounted Wilson 3' antenna on Shmellmopwho mount, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, Billstein B110 rear shocks, 5100s with 885 coils and 1/4" spacers, SPC LR UCAs, 2wd low range mod
    Every time the frame flexes I hear noises. I need to tighten the rears a bit more, but the fronts are tighter and make more noise - especially p side. The fronts have been noisier from the very beginning. I'm not even wheeling and they're noisy enough that I'm thinking about getting back in there with some lube. I'm hoping that they will quiet down. I'm willing to wait a bit and see if they "settle in".
     
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  20. May 23, 2016 at 5:52 AM
    #20
    Crom

    Crom Outside

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    I'm definitely interested in your experience with these. I've asked others and only one said that theirs made the same noises.
     

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