Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

Your Frame.

And they are overtorqued as well.

 

I did the same with the impact. Then, when I heard the noises, I got out the big torque wrench and tightened them

 

Overtorqued I definitely agree. As for the frame. I would agree with you, but I have seen too many instances where things line up when they were originally fabbed up using OE parts which lined and bolted right up no problem.

What did you spec them to? Lol. We are so quick to use the impact.

 

Either 85 or 95. I don't remember.

 

The Makita cordless impact is capable of 118 ft lbs. of torque fully charged. Not much over what the spec you posted was. I'm starting to think I just need to pull out the bolts fully, wire wheel them off then just lube the shit out of them and the sleeve, as well as the bushings and the sounds should recede.

 

Energy Suspension told me the noise from the over torqued bushings is the sleeve moving internally vertically. Grease will help, but really correct torque is all that's needed. 35 ft.lbf.

 

Oh 35 ft. lbs. is what it is? Damn. If that's the case I went way overboard on the torque for mine.

 

Technically it's 34. lol but yeah, not much is needed.

 

They say not to reuse the old nuts and bolts too

 

I've had my radiator bolt loosen up on me after off road washboard...

Speaking of, the nuts on the radiator bolts are not the same as the cab mount bolts on my 09. Just an observation I made after looking at a catalog for a later model truck that indicated same part number for all 6 nuts, and ordering new nuts to discover they are different. Could have been an error in the catalog too.

 

Things are torqued to a certain degree for a reason. Toyota engineers didn't just point at numbers and say "Yeah that sounds about right", nothing is impacted until it won't go anymore. Overtorque is just as bad as under torque. Loctite and a torque wrench are you friends on these trucks.

And the U bolt torque spec was an admitted typo from Toyota. A Typo, not an incorrect torque number.

 

glad to find this thread, I've had the pinch weld banding against my sliders bad lately and its beyond annoying! it got worse after i had the body mount chop done... this looks like a great solution but not sure i can tackle this on my own. what would a shop charge to replace the body mount bushings ?

 

Get together with some local members and have a mod day. It's really not as bad as I make it out to be. I went in blind, so it sucked. If I did another one, it would fly by quick and go smoothly. Just have all the tools and parts on hand, and make sure anyone involved has a clear understanding of what's going on. I did this write up so it would be easier for others than it was for me.

 

Good stuff fellas and its threads like this that make all us taco heads lives a little easier!!!

 

Did you ever retorque yours? How's the noise level now?

 

Haven't touched them. They've quieted down to the point where I very rarely notice, or even think about, them.

 

I don't trust my old hardware, and I am going to double nut my radiator bolts. I'm going to try and source some metric nylocks. I'll share back when I find the right thread size and pitch.

This is the parts image that is in the thread OP. I believe it is right for part numbers. I will verify. Part verified 10/26/2016



The image below is the image I used when ordering parts, and was wrong. It's the PDF catalog for the 2013 that's embedded in the forum somewhere.

They showed the same nut (item 35) for the radiator bolts, as the same for the body bolts. Wrong.

 

Radiator nuts are M10-1.25. I've .

 

I need to check mine. I've got a vibe that I can hear but not feel when taking off from a stop. I hope this is it. I drive a lot of wasboard and potholed dirt roads.

 

I too drive washboard.

I've had my radiator bolt loosen up on me after the first time i swapped to the universal ES bushings last year.

I'm not taking any chances this time. I torqued the radiator bolts as firmly as possible with 1/4 drive ratchet and 14mm socket. This helped firm up the front end. I'm running the kit bushings now.

There is enough threads exposed to double nut it with nylock nut, so that's my plan.