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Bound to happen. I finally got my first P0420 code!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by BamaToy1997, Apr 25, 2014.

  1. Jul 25, 2014 at 4:24 PM
    #41
    netsomnia

    netsomnia Well-Known Member

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    This O2 thread ( http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...ight-code-p0420-popped-up-my-01-tacoma-2.html ) just petered out. LOL

    Although I have read other similar threads where they actually fixed with an O2 (the sensor that is downstream from the catalytic converter) I am not convinced it was not a guess. I am determined not to guess and make it easiER for the next guy because, as we have discovered, the A/F, O2 and catalytic converter, are not exactly cheap parts. We should not have to use a shotgun solution with our dollar bills to fix the problem.

    The next time I see something about pollution control on a voting ballot, I will start asking questions and definitely be more inquisitive about the underlying details because P0420 is BULLSHIT! I had the same type of crap on a Jeep Grand Cherokee recently. I know there are more deviant or pressing issues in the world but here is something else for us to gripe about. In fact, I saw a video on YouTube where a kid in California use a 49-state CAT by accident and it passed emissions! The _uckers made him change it because it wasn't CA or CARB labeled on the outside!
     
  2. Jul 27, 2014 at 1:41 PM
    #42
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] Wheel Bearing Master

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    I can totally understand your frustration. The thing is, while I don't like some of the methods they use with the emission control, I do appreciate and understand their reasoning behind it. As for the guy who got the cat that was not CA or CARB approved, there are reasons for that. To prevent companies from putting out cheap, poorly made cats that will pass the first time, but deteriorate quickly, forcing a customer to have to get ANOTHER cat way too soon.

    Also it is not the cat itself that fails. Poor maintenance, not fixing problems soon enough, poor quality fuel..... All of these will quickly cause damage to the cat, and premature failure.
     
  3. Jul 30, 2014 at 2:06 PM
    #43
    netsomnia

    netsomnia Well-Known Member

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    Good points. Hopefully the 90-dollar magnaflow that I bought does not fall into the 'poorly made cats' category just because it is only a 49-state one. I'll keep posting results here.
     
  4. Aug 3, 2014 at 7:00 PM
    #44
    quag600

    quag600 Active Member

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    Mine has come on with my 03 2.7l auto. Time to start troubleshooting...If I find anything I'll let everyone know.
     
  5. Aug 9, 2014 at 1:33 PM
    #45
    netsomnia

    netsomnia Well-Known Member

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    Replaced my CAT (2.4L 2rZ) today. I am sharing the sensor voltage waveforms again because they are definitely different than before the CAT was replaced and the graphs from my scanner indicate that the downstream O2 sensor does not seem to follow the A/F (upstream sensor) as much as before.

    The attached graphs represent O2 voltage output at 35 MPH and 55 MPH respectively. It is obvious that the new CAT caused a change for the better, I think.

    I also changed from NGK spark plugs (age unknown) to Denso using part numbers in my owners manual and checked gaps according to owners manual, air filter, cleaned throttle body and IAC (idle air control) and MAF (mass air flow). I will update this thread with success or failure after 50 more miles or so. I think the root cause of the CAT failure was the missing gaskets between CAT and exhaust pipe allowed water to get in and contaminated the CAT eventually rendering it useless. My new magnaflow is welded - no more gaskets and bolted joints at the CAT.

    screenshot (4).jpg
    screenshot (5).jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2014
  6. Aug 9, 2014 at 3:38 PM
    #46
    evile

    evile Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced my drivers side cat on Tuesday and 200 miles no light
     
  7. Sep 4, 2014 at 10:44 AM
    #47
    netsomnia

    netsomnia Well-Known Member

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    This is my daily driver and no CEL came on since replacing the CAT. I think it was contaminated because the owner before me was allowed a perfectly good 2RZ to fall behind its maintenance schedule and didn't bother to replace the gaskets that are known to go out at the catalytic converter. I am caught up on tune-up now all except for the fan clutch. I will ask some questions about that in a separate forum/thread.
     
  8. Sep 6, 2014 at 7:30 PM
    #48
    bthober

    bthober New Member

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    I have both P0420 and P0430 showing on a '05 with the 4.0l it seems unlikely that both cats would go bad simultaneously, same with o2 sensors. I service the truck as recommended. any ideas?
     
  9. Sep 6, 2014 at 7:31 PM
    #49
    evile

    evile Well-Known Member

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    Could be a mass airflow issue. Would need to see o2 readings to see
     
  10. Sep 24, 2014 at 1:26 AM
    #50
    Walcher

    Walcher Member

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    Hey, could someone help me, I'm stumped on this tacoma. Traded my perfectly running truck for this annoying 3.4. First off the truck has no acceleration, and when I give it gas, my k&n intake sounds like it's sucking way to much air in. It threw the 420 code, so I changed my upper o2 sensor, did nothing. So like a dumbass I ripped apart my front cat, so now I'm straight piped, and still have no power. The only code it's throwing is the bad cat though, should I change my a/f sensor? I was also thinking it could be that k&n? I checked my spark plugs and they look like it's running lean, my maf sensor was clean but I cleaned it again anyways and still nothing. Honestly I'm out of money and I need a daily driver.
     
  11. Oct 2, 2014 at 7:41 AM
    #51
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] Wheel Bearing Master

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    Sorry, I thought I had email alters to this thread, but I don't.

    Did you only remove the front cat? Or did you remove both? Your description sounds exactly like a clogged exhaust system would sound.
     
  12. Oct 2, 2014 at 11:16 AM
    #52
    Funhog

    Funhog Active Member

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    Just replaced both Cats (walker cal cats) and sensors (Denso) and muffler (walker) while I was at it. So far no P0420 Code return. Will update if it comes back. When I took out the O2 sensor, I noticed that it was just stuck there on the threads, no nuts holding it on. Wonder if it was getting bad readings from the fresh air coming in the sensor hole via venturi effect. Didn't look like there were nuts on there for a long time either...
     
  13. Oct 2, 2014 at 11:54 AM
    #53
    Walcher

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    Both cats are out, the rear was already hollowed out, and I hollowed the front. No codes are thrown, just still luggin. After I put the urd sensor in the lower, the top end power got a little better, but still not a 3.4. I'm wondering if the k&n fucked with my ecu. I think I might take it to the toyota dealer and see what they think.
     
  14. Oct 2, 2014 at 7:14 PM
    #54
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] Wheel Bearing Master

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    I think that would be a good idea. Let them at least take a look and see what they think. Have you replaced the fuel filter?
     
  15. Oct 2, 2014 at 8:06 PM
    #55
    Walcher

    Walcher Member

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    I went to toyota today, and they said it sounds like my timing is off or the belt is worn. Gonna take it apart this weekend, hopefully that's it. I'll let you know bud
     
  16. Oct 3, 2014 at 5:32 AM
    #56
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] Wheel Bearing Master

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    Valid possibility. Can't wait to hear what you find out.
     
  17. Oct 12, 2014 at 2:23 PM
    #57
    Dragons Taco

    Dragons Taco Well-Known Member

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    Did you have any diagnosing techniques for the o2 sensor using a multi meter beyond the diagram that was posted? I'm thinking about swapping driver side to passenger to see if the problem follows the sensor. I got a code after replacing my clutch, and I know I hit the passenger side sensor pretty good with my bell housing. The code clears and usually comes back after a few weeks of driving.
     
  18. Oct 12, 2014 at 3:37 PM
    #58
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 [OP] Wheel Bearing Master

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    Swapping the sensors is a simple test, as long as it is the same position sensor (i.e. you can't swap it with the post-cat sensor on the left if trading it with the PRE-cat sensor on the right)

    As for voltage tests, you can disconnect the O2 sensor and find the correct 2 wires for the signal. With the engine OFF and cold, you should read 450 millivolts at the O2 sensor. With the engine running that sensor should fluctuate evenly in the range of 150 mV up to 850mV. It's not a bad thing if it goes above or below these numbers, but you do want a nice switch above and below the 450 mV baseline.
     
  19. Oct 13, 2014 at 1:43 AM
    #59
    Dragons Taco

    Dragons Taco Well-Known Member

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    Engine off and cold, and the o2 sensor disconnected I should read 450 mv? Are you sure about that? Wouldn't the sensor need the 12v to power it?
     
  20. Oct 13, 2014 at 2:04 AM
    #60
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Congrats on finally achieving the 420 code....:rasta: haha. Yeah that code can mean a few things , from the CAT to an 02 sensor, to old engine oil, maybe the CAT is getting clogged & it's not getting hot enough system wise to operate to specs. At least thats why mine failed anyway...
     

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