Brake fluid change

Hi there! Want to do brake fluid change just wanted to know how bottles I will need. Thanks in advance

 

1 qt or 1 liter does the job well.

 

There’s no point unless you flush. Suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir with an old turkey baster. Fill with fresh fluid. Bleed from right rear drum first till fresh fluid comes out. Then do left rear. Then right front. Then left front. Do it in line with a tire rotation and it adds about an hour total.

 

That is what I meant, thanks

 

I always get two bottles
Always worried about running out when flushing

 

2 quarts should be enough to flush the entire system and fill the master unless you're slopping it everywhere. Don't get any of it on the paint. Wash it off with soap and water asap if you do.

 

Any specific brand recommended? I know what's matters is dot3 and not being a toyota brand.

 

I like Valvoline DOT 3/4 if I can find it, otherwise Prestone. Valvoline Dot 3/4 haș a slightly higher wet boil point than Prestone's Dot 3/4.

https://valvolinechemicals.com/products/valvoline-dot-34-brake-fluid-32oz

 

Nope, any brand will do. Prestone when it is on sale, otherwise Wally World.

 

Now changing topics, for rear diferential will valvoline full synthetic

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 do the trick?

 

Sure will.

 

Is the procedure to bleed the brakes the same as with older vehicles using the old crack the bleeder open, pump, close, release, repeat? I’m not familiar with how the electronic booster works for this system.

 

I use a mighty vac. Crack the bleed screw start pumping fill up the little bottle until the fluid coming out looks clean. Don’t let the MC go dry.

Limited-time deal: Mityvac MV8000 Professional Single Person Manual Brake and Clutch Bleeding Tune-up Kit

$45 Mityvac MV8000 Professional Brake and Clutch Bleeding Tune-up Kit, Includes Selectline Hand-Vacuum Pump, 4.5 oz. Fluid Reservoir with Lid, Manifold Plugs, Screw and Tube Adapters, Connection Tubes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS

 

don’t let the cup, attach the mighty vac get full either. I used one of these few years ago and wasn’t paying attention. The cup got full brake fluid was sucked into the mighty vac, tool itself destroying the gauge

 

Done that one myself.

 

If you have an air compressor, you can use an air-operated vacuum pump such as the one HF sells for $16.00. Far quicker and easier than using a hand vac. This pump is for AC systems, so what I did was add a 1/4 ball valve, a nipple for the tubing, and an old bleeder cup (which can easily be made from an old pickle, jam jar, or any container that seals). I plug it into my air system, apply some vacuum by opening the ball valve, crack the bleeder valve and pull through fluid until fresh fluid comes through. Close the bleeder valve, and then close the ball valve to stop applying vacuum. It works like a charm, and you can do the whole thing by yourself. It's also pretty clean. I have found I need to add fluid to the reservoir after each brake is bled.

 

Just changed the AT oil and YES it was a qt short. I had heard about it lots of time an never believed it. SMH