Brake question

So, I'm a bit of an idiot. I read about upgrading the front brakes to 1st gen tundra brakes on the 1st gen Tacomas. For some reason, I assumed the 2nd gen (tacoma) brakes were more similar to 1st gens (Tacoma) than they are (I've only figured out how similar the 2nd gen Tacoma brake parts are to the 1st gen tundras with research after the following problem was discovered). I needed brakes and rotors, and my calipers have 150k on them, so I decided to replace everything, and decided to try tundra components.

I bought the 13WL calipers, rotors, and brake pads from a first gen tundra. The rotors and calipers appear somewhere between very similar and almost identical. I didn't compare the pads because mine were so shot.

I had to reshape my dust shield some with a hammer, but everything bolted up just fine. I drove around to bed the brakes and could feel them rubbing/holding me back a little. I came home and jacked up the front, and found that I couldn't rotate the front wheels. I pulled the wheels off and found that the anti-rattle springs were put in wrong and binding things up. I took them out and the hubs spun by hand, so I thought the problem was solved.

I bolted the wheels back on, and tried to spin them again, and they wont turn by hand after all. I can barely turn them if I push on the tire with my foot. If I loosen the lug nuts, it'll turn. Somehow, tightening the lug nuts is making it seize up.

Anybody have any idea on this? As I've read about things since this happened, it seems that the pads are maybe a little bit bigger on the 1st gen tundra than the 2nd gen tacomas, so I don't really expect any difference in performance. I might be out a few dollars or maybe up a few dollars, as I haven't compared prices of tundra vs Tacoma components. I'm just trying to figure out if I can make this setup work or if I need to just go back to Tacoma parts.

 

Are you sure your wheel isn't scraping on the caliper?

 

I don't think so. I have 17s so they should clear the calipers. l also didn't hear any noise as I drove, I could just feel the drag. When I took everything apart I didn't see any evidence of scraping on the inside of the wheel.

 

I honestly don’t know.
But here is a good link to some of the different sizes of different brake components for Toyota.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-brakes-swaps-and-tech.468271/

 

When the wheel is bolted down and won't spin its probably the rotor that is jammed against the caliper. Tighten down 2 or 3 lugnuts right onto the rotor and see what you can see. Could probably even take the pads out to make sure they arent interfering.

 

That's a good thought. I'll check that out tomorrow. I've already given up on it tonight.

 

If it is that, can I put grade 8 washers on each lug nut as a spacer, or is that a terrible idea?

 

If you value your life at all, do not use washers for wheel spacers. Look at the brake swap link above. Try the thing with the lug nuts suggested above.

If you end up needing spacers, Summit makes nice billet ones. I used multiple washers, bolted up my wheels, spin to check, repeat until not rubbing, remove & measured washers to know how thick of a spacer I needed. Being my first time doing such a thing, I didn’t think about wheel studs. Adding space between the wheel & rotor decreases how much the stud sticks out. I went with new arp studs. Those arp studs are nice and dense, the spacers don’t warp and crack like the cheap ones.

 

Well I for one wouldn't do that.

I do like what @b_r_o suggested of leaving the wheel off and tightening the nuts directly to the rotor so that you can actually see what is going on.

 

I recall reading a thread, someone else trying to do the same thing you’re trying to accomplish.

Titled:
2nd Gen DIY Big Brake KIt -OEM parts- Part #'s provided (INSTALLED)

 

Found some more about it.
Post #39 is interesting.



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tundra-calipers-not-lining-up.531612/

 

Too correct a previous error, I meant I was going to put washer on each lug stud behind the rotor. But I'm guessing standard washers aren't within tight enough tolerances to keep the rotor true.

 

No you can't be putting washers on the studs to space things out. Its completely unsafe. The only things that should be on the stud is a rotor and a wheel.. and a lugnut to clamp everything together

 

I figured. I'm going to swap them out for 4runner brakes and either return or sell the tundra stuff. Lesson learned. Thanks for all the input.

 

Alright, so the 4runner brakes bolted right up. The reshaping I had done of the dust shield for the tundra brakes let the 4runner rotors fit fine, and the wheels spin freely with everything mounted. I'm running 17" 4runner wheels, which may or may not be important.

On closer inspection, I found that when everything was bolted up with the tundra brakes, the rotor was pressing on the caliper on the inside. I read other posts talking about grinding the calipers to make tundra brakes work. I'm guessing that's where that grinding was happening. As near as I can tell, about 1/8" on the caliper is all that keeps tundra brakes from working. I'll try to post up some pics later. I'm gonna sell the tundra components as a package and am gonna take a loss on them, but it's a lesson learned. I'll be sure to do more reading before my next hair brained approach to a mod.