Brett's average build thread

Let me know when. Sunday afternoon I'll be busy. Saturday is good though.

 

I just grabbed an auto zone one. It wouldn't start the connection was so bad. No more lead acid for me!

 

I'd take that pos back...



JK

Btw, saw your old truck today, honked and waved, got a "who the hell is that" look from the new owner...

 

Not soon enough... we didn't specify a time when he would have them completed. In retrospect this was not a good plan...lol
I'll have to drop by his shop tomorrow and tap my foot...I know he's pretty backed up with all the bumper orders and repairs.

 

Me too, lol

 

Well it came on the runner. 5 year old Napa battery. Ate through the metal battery strap thing too. I saved my die hard so I shouldn't have to worry about further damage.

I saw it driving around too. I was like... well that is awkward...

 

That's not a bad idea never thought of running a bolt through the mount.

 

They are not a problem yet but down the road I know they probably will be. Especially if I get a crawl box.

 

So this happened a while back and today I thought I would see what had slipped. Sorry no pics, just an explanation. I do not have any kind of lifetime adjustment so figured if I screwed it up I'd have to pay anyway and this gave me a chance to figure it out on my own. It's always recommended to go to a qualified alignment shop and have it done right...

It's been wandering down the road and the steering wheel was off a few degrees to one side.
I found this video on youtube on how to install and adjust LT racing UCA's. I was only interested in the adjustment aspect, just to see what I was up against.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1yQyHzOtTc

The uca's were set differently at the top, driver was pulled all the way to the outside and the passenger was halfway in.
Talking about camber only here...
I was going on the assumption that maybe the passenger had slipped because logic said this was the way the wheel needed to go to be straight again. Plus visually from the front the driver had more positive camber then the passenger.

So I loosened the top nut and pulled it all the way to the outside like the driver was and torqued it down to 120fp. This seemed a bit light so I cranked her again to 150fp, just to see if it slips again.

A test drive showed a slight improvement in the steering wheel and a drastic improvement in tracking.
I still wasn't happy with the steering wheel being off so I adjusted the tie rods next, turned the driver in one turn and passenger out one turn. Also rotated the tires since I was halfway there.

Success! Steering wheel is straight again, tracks good again.

I'll keep an eye on the tread to see if it wears funny but for now I'm happy where it's at.

 

Shit man, sorry I missed this question, I've been preoccupied lately, and from your recent posts I assume you got it figured out..
I'll try to pay more attention from now on

 

Sliders are done! Come and get em.............

 

I'll be down this afternoon, thanks Scotty!

 

Just a dry fit today









I'll put a bit more angle on 'em when their mounted.

 

Honestly if it were me I'd leave them level. Will help protect the body more. Have fun cleaning the frame rails off. Took forever to get the undercoating crap off.

 

Yeah, but a slight angle looks sporty I know what you're saying though.
I got flap disc's, and wire brushes attached to 4 1/2" angle grinders, so hopefully cleaning the surface won't be all that bad.

 

This will be a slow process as time and the weather are not on my side.
Welded the legs on today.




Washed them with degreaser.




And a coat of Harbor Freight bed liner




Maybe later this week or next weekend for the install as I need another set of hands.

 

Today was the day!
After screwing around with a floor jack, 2x4's, jackstands and a mild hangover, I remembered my transmission jack that was hidden behind the shop bench. If you have access to something like, I highly recommend using it.






A selection of destructive tools for removing undercoating.


Turns out this little $2.00 abrasive disk from HF worked great.

 

Naturally I forgot to take pics of the clamping process, just used C clamps to hold in place.

I used flux core wire because it's what I had. This is a flux weld before it's clean.


Of course I didn't take any pics of a clean weld but trust me they look fine.

 

Next up is a rear locker and bumper. Undecided on what brand/design for either at this time.

 

Looking good, now we just need to put them to the test!