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Brett's average build thread

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Deathbysnusnu, Dec 1, 2013.

  1. Jul 18, 2015 at 10:43 AM
    #361
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Preparing for surgery.


    meh, straight enough. You won't be able to see it anyway.


    Some leverage.




    At this point, I'm within less than an 1/8" of aligning all 4 holes. I thought about enlarging the holes, then decided to trim the heat sink instead. Strength in mounting is paramount.
     
  2. Jul 18, 2015 at 10:53 AM
    #362
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    More shitty welds.


    Filled in all the gaps, pics to come later. Waiting on paint to dry so I prepped the winch.
    Used my Hammerblow to clean up the battery cable.



    soldered my copper lugs on. 50/50 solder and some off brand of flux.
    I use a bench vise and a torch to heat the lug, drop some flux in and dip the cable in flux too. Fill the lug with solder, keep that shit hot and plunge the cable inside, keeping the heat applied for a few seconds. Then remove the heat and hold perfectly still for a minute or so until the solder cools and hardens.

    The vise acts as a heat sink so it takes time to heat up and then cool down as well.


    Ready for shrink wrap.


    And sealed. Should outlast me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2015
  3. Jul 18, 2015 at 11:02 AM
    #363
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    This looks hideous, but it won't be seen. I lathered liberal amounts of bedliner on it to make sure I don't have to remove the winch any time soon and do it again.
     
  4. Jul 18, 2015 at 11:57 AM
    #364
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Not too many of these around...


    what I had to trim, really wasn't too much.


    It's in! Bolted, torqued and wired.




    See? can't see shit. Looks good from my house.:D
     
  5. Jul 18, 2015 at 12:04 PM
    #365
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Dog, camper.
    The Smittybilt had 80' of rope. You could prolly get another 20' if you really wanted.
    The Warn has 120' of rope.
    The rope on the Warn is something I bought a few years back. It's mil spec and a bit thinner in diameter than the Amsteel blue brand. The owner of Rockstomper set me up with it back when he was in business. There is a significant difference in the way it "frays", or the fuzzies that you get on winch rope after awhile. It doesn't fray.

    as far as weight difference, I stood on the bathroom scale, today I weigh 143.4 pounds.
    Smittybilt with me--194.6
    Warn with me---194.2
    so 51 pounds and equal in weight. I must have weighed one after I peed. :p
     
  6. Jul 18, 2015 at 12:41 PM
    #366
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Dog, camper.
  7. Jul 18, 2015 at 12:43 PM
    #367
    303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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    ICONS Front & extended Rears DAKARS LR UCAS Wheelers Super Bumps F/R Homersoshi & Bumper insert, Ultra Gauge, Wet Okole seat covers, AFE air filter, Truxedo tonneau cover, LED White Cluster swap by yosh2000, Audio upgrade, ECGS Bushing, rcbs204 Lighted 4x4switch, Bullaculla trailer harness relocate bracket SOS Concepts IFS skid & sliders Anti- Dark RedLine Hood Struts Matt Gecko Bed Lights BHLM Depo Tailights Fog light anytime mod ABS cancel mod Rear diff breather mod Brake light 35watt mod Relentless u bolt flip Mobtown Recovery Bar Sound deadener doors rear wall
    HELL YEAH!!!:D good job Brettt
     
    Deathbysnusnu[OP] likes this.
  8. Jul 18, 2015 at 12:46 PM
    #368
    303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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    ICONS Front & extended Rears DAKARS LR UCAS Wheelers Super Bumps F/R Homersoshi & Bumper insert, Ultra Gauge, Wet Okole seat covers, AFE air filter, Truxedo tonneau cover, LED White Cluster swap by yosh2000, Audio upgrade, ECGS Bushing, rcbs204 Lighted 4x4switch, Bullaculla trailer harness relocate bracket SOS Concepts IFS skid & sliders Anti- Dark RedLine Hood Struts Matt Gecko Bed Lights BHLM Depo Tailights Fog light anytime mod ABS cancel mod Rear diff breather mod Brake light 35watt mod Relentless u bolt flip Mobtown Recovery Bar Sound deadener doors rear wall
    By the way 2* shims have arrived!!!:)
     
    Deathbysnusnu[OP] likes this.
  9. Jul 23, 2015 at 7:20 AM
    #369
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Brett
    Fort Crawlins, CO
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    Dog, camper.
    I have ordered 4.88 ring and pinion sets for the Taco and a Detroit locker as well.
    It took some doing to decide on the gearing. I know 4.56 is stock gears with 33" tires but that is not always optimal depending on your driving habits and where you live.
    Here in Colorado, we have altitude issues that suck the oxygen out of the air. So bone stock vehicles are actually struggling but we have grown so used to it it seems normal
    We also have out of state rv drivers who can't do the speed limit for whatever reason, so having power on tap to pass on a single lane going uphill is priceless.

    Gearing is not just about acceleration, it's also about engine braking and power band range. A lot of our trails are steeeeeeeep You need ample gears to get up as well as down without riding the brakes.

    Originally my truck came with a 30" tire, or it did when I bought it used, which for all intents is actually 29".

    Using this calculator http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

    I came up with these numbers. I'm just looking at RPM ranges, I could care less about MPG's.

    The engine seems to make the best consistent power between 2800 and 3200 rpm.

    So with 4.10 gears, 29" tires at 75 is 2850rpm.
    with 4.88 gears, 32.8" tires at 75 is 2999rpm. So 149rpm difference and right in the middle of the power band.

    4.56 gears with 32.8" tires at 75 is 2803rpm. So actually lower than stock and on the ragged edge of entering the power band.

    Smaller tires and lower profile suspensions are naturally more aerodynamic and require less energy overall.
    Large tires increase rolling resistance as well as kill aerodynamics in all area's. So much more energy overall is required to move.

    Going with 4.88 also allows me more wiggle room for larger tires. It's been my experience these things grow bigger over time.

    One other thing, the 75 speed limit is only on two roads here, I-25 (which is usually a parking lot) and small sections of I-70. I almost never drive the interstates, almost always preferring the back roads or smaller highways. So my gearing should be about perfect for the most part.

    Any questions?:D

    For reference
    R150F
    A 4WD transmission found in many Toyota trucks. Land Cruiser II, Land Cruiser Prado and Hilux Surf (1989-1993) 2L-T series and 1KZ series Turbo Diesel, V6 3VZE and 5VZ-FE ] (also Japan, UK and Europe 1KZ/TE 4Runners, 93-95)

    Ratios:

    • First Gear: 3.830:1
    • Second Gear: 2.062:1
    • Third Gear: 1.436:1
    • Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
    • Fifth Gear: 0.838:1
    For playing around with
    http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx#Transmission
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2015
    presto and 303tacoma like this.
  10. Jul 23, 2015 at 7:26 AM
    #370
    303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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    ICONS Front & extended Rears DAKARS LR UCAS Wheelers Super Bumps F/R Homersoshi & Bumper insert, Ultra Gauge, Wet Okole seat covers, AFE air filter, Truxedo tonneau cover, LED White Cluster swap by yosh2000, Audio upgrade, ECGS Bushing, rcbs204 Lighted 4x4switch, Bullaculla trailer harness relocate bracket SOS Concepts IFS skid & sliders Anti- Dark RedLine Hood Struts Matt Gecko Bed Lights BHLM Depo Tailights Fog light anytime mod ABS cancel mod Rear diff breather mod Brake light 35watt mod Relentless u bolt flip Mobtown Recovery Bar Sound deadener doors rear wall
    nice Elroy:D
     
    Deathbysnusnu[OP] likes this.
  11. Jul 23, 2015 at 9:17 AM
    #371
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    02,03 some 04, it's complicated
    #junkyardparts
    4.88.... I want. :thumbsup:
     
    Deathbysnusnu[OP] likes this.
  12. Jul 25, 2015 at 4:00 PM
    #372
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    **EDIT**
    <What you are about to read was a total waste of time, lol, I'm leaving it purely for "don't do this" purposes. I ended up changing it just a few days later and you can read about it further in the build.>

    My cheap, fast attempt at a shock relocate didn't last too long. Didn't expect it too but was hoping for longer.

    I had simply welded a piece of 1/4" angle to the underside of the frame with a bolt welded to that for the shock. I was happy the frame didn't tear.

    So, after laying underneath for a few hours with the shocks off, suspension drooped out, looking for a way to make it all fit with the spare tire and the stupid proportioning valve in the way, I decided to go back to my original location but with hopefully a better mount. I more or less copied what Toyota had originally done.

    I drilled a 5/8" hole though the outside of the frame and the frame plate I had welded on a while back.
    The inside support for the original mount was actually fairly stout stuff at almost 3/16". It was spaced about 1 1/8" from the inside of the frame channel. I drilled a 3/4" through this section.

    The location is angled inline with the original geometry.

    Using a 5/8" x 6" grade 8 bolt with a 3/4"od and 5/8"id sleeve. I sleeved the inner portion. The sleeve runs to the inside channel of the frame and is 3 3/16" in length.

    The washer is 7/16" out of the box but is a nice slip fit over the bolt and backs to the sleeve.

    Next I made a sleeve for the Nitrocharger shock. These things have a huge inner bushing diameter, but this actually works in my favor due the length of the bolt and the need to keep it from bending. I used the same material as for the bolt.


    Here is the preliminary install, just enough thread through the nylock ring.
    And you can see it's still has the same depth as original.


    Passenger side.


    Then I welded the sleeve all the way around. The bolt can still be removed.


    And the head on the outside. But I painted it black to blend in.


    I never bottomed them out before, the dust marks from the seals were evidence of this. The angle iron broke due to poor support, as in none at the top, and flexed until they broke.
    I have full natural spring droop now and the shocks are right at their extended limit.

    As the build progresses, I really can't say what changes will be made in this area.

    **EDIT**
    It was changed...:p
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2015
    presto likes this.
  13. Jul 25, 2015 at 5:30 PM
    #373
    johnboyTRD

    johnboyTRD Well-Known Member

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    Full ome lift, nitro charger sports all 4 corners (rear shocks relocated), Dakar pack w/ AAL, 882 coils, diff drop, toytec 1" shackles, trail gear low profile front bumper, Tuff Stuff winch, bamf sliders, RAT skids, BAMF Bed Rack, Tepui Kukenam RTT, RAT rear bumper,
    The guy who did my rear relocation used a sleeve inside the ome bushing... it was quiet at first buy now makes a racket. Haven't really taken the time to look at it yet, but i think the sleeve has warped into an oval shape, and moves vertically in the mount. just something you might want to keep on radar.
     
  14. Jul 25, 2015 at 5:33 PM
    #374
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    I've seen that before with Rancho shocks, they use a sleeve with a split down one side and yep they deform and oval out inside the rubber. I'm hoping these being a short piece of pipe will stay round.
     
  15. Jul 27, 2015 at 11:42 AM
    #375
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    My ride is currently on stands. I thought my ring and pinion coincidentally went out over the weekend, lots of popping and strange metal on metal sounds. So I inspected it closer on Sunday and discovered the driver side wheel bearing was toast and the passenger side was being toasted.:eek:
    A special tool is required to remove the bearing. Thought about making one, then found a local machine shop who has one. So having the old bearings pressed off today and the new one pressed on, and hopefully back together later this week. Then take it apart again next week to do the gears...:rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2015
    SilverGhost likes this.
  16. Jul 28, 2015 at 8:20 PM
    #376
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    New wheel bearings and seals installed. All noises are gone now. In fact, it's quieter than it's been for almost a year now. I just assumed drivetrain/tire noise all this time.
    New gears next week.
     
    303tacoma and teamhypoxia like this.
  17. Jul 29, 2015 at 6:25 AM
    #377
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    I've seen a few threads on brake bleeding that leave me scratching my head. Here is it, do it yourself, don't need any help, works every time. Don't bother with the crappy vacuum pumps, they suck but not in a good way.


    No need to remove the wheel mine just happened to be off at this stage. A short length of appropriately sized vacuum line and an old bottle of brake fluid with a bit of fluid in the bottom. End of vacuum line must be immersed in the fluid, crack open the bleeder valve. I've always found a 1/4 turn on the bleeder is sufficient. More than that and you will get air back through the threads.
    Pump brakes in a slow controlled manner, after 6-8 pumps, check and top off master cylinder. repeat process and close bleeder valve. Top off master cyl again and you're done. No spongy brakes.

    And one more thing. They are brakes. When they don't work and you crash than your shit breaks. got it? :)
     
    303tacoma likes this.
  18. Jul 29, 2015 at 11:24 AM
    #378
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Another project. Stock length.
     
  19. Jul 29, 2015 at 11:31 AM
    #379
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    Nice work on your brakes!

    Have you thought about what would happen if your brakes broke when you braked?

    Or even worse, what if every time you were braking things were breaking?
     
    303tacoma likes this.
  20. Jul 29, 2015 at 1:47 PM
    #380
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Breaking brakes while braking could cause one to go broke in a hurry, that's for sure.
     

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