Brett's average build thread

so.... does the red one with the fun-noodle skids float? (and can any lift a gopro?)

 

It is a cool bumper!!!!!
I had to re-reread your build to make sure i did not miss a photo. But next time you are under there can you take some photos of how you and Rucas tied the square tube into the framing? I need to build a rear bumper or hire out a new bumper. But of all the high clearance bumpers I am considering, none look to have as stout of a class 3 hitch as the oem sr5 tow package. Sadly my oem tow package is like 7" below the oem bumper. Rucas' looks nice and might be able to be modified to take the (rather odd) additional components I need.
Also, what did it weigh? and how much lighter was your wallet afterword?
Great build thread.

 

Actually the noodle skids are to give more ground clearance for the tail, to keep it from kicking up gravel
All three of the bigger ones can carry a camera with ease. The red one is actually the dedicated camera mule.

 

Let's see..
I'll get some pics when I get a chance here soon.
I had the class 3 drop down tube setup in the beginning too, with that and the stock bumper, the new bumper is actually lighter than the two together.
There was a slight issue with the receiver tube, he recessed it a bit far back, for clearance reasons I'm sure, but it blocked the hole for the pin, so I had to drill a new one behind the assembly and then re-drill the hitches too. Not something I really recommend if you are trying to maintain a rating. I'm just using it for snatch purposes and occasionally a trailer load of wood.
I can't say what it cost, this was a private transaction between me and Lucas, it's up to him if he wants to make another. As far as I know, mine and his are the only two around.

 

@Cadmus
some low quality pics, lol. It might be better if got together so you could see it better.
Driver side bumper mount. You can see where the side tube ties into the main portion


Passenger side mount looking from the inside


A better angle of the above. The washers are just shims for leveling. My frame might be a little bent, not surprised really.


Driver side from the inside.


Same from different angle.


Passenger outside.


There are only 4 bolts holding it on, it has never shifted and carries the swingout no problem.

 

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE PHOTOS!!!
Wow. 100% bolt on? I am surprised but happy to see that. What thickness is the angle iron (or was it bent from plate?) and is the bumper part 2x5" tube or what? how thick.

I thought for sure i would have to drop from the frame or i would hit the body just below the gate... but yours is a straight shot. that is refreshing.

MANY THANKS!!!

 

I think he bent the plate, Iron and Metal on East Mulberry can do this cheap.
The main square tubing is 2" x 4", 3/16" gauge.

 

bent plate looks 1/4" yes/no?

 

had to go check, it's actually 3/16" as well surprisingly enough. The return must give it the strength.

 

Axle flip kit from Front Range Off Road Fab finally showed up after a lengthy wait...
definitely some beef here with this product.

1/2" top plates.



Some hefty U-bolts as well. Everything was nicely packaged, wrapped individually.


I need do drill and tap some holes for the Wheelers Bumpstops, and maybe a coat of paint to keep them pretty through the up coming winter.

 

Drilled and tapped for 3/8" x 16 bolts, which came off my Scout. That's right, there will be a mix of SAE and Metric on my ride.




Plates are painted and while they are drying, will start taking the rear of the truck apart.

 

Another very easy improvement over stock. Very nice kit, had great fit, the U-bolts were perfect radius and easily lined up with the top plates. Threads were clean and the whole thing went together with ease.
Before


Plates installed, painted with Rustoleum Hammered because I seem to have a lot of it.






Very happy with the look and fit of the bumpstops.


4 1/4"- 4 1/2" of up-travel on each side.




Aside from my lower mounts being slightly askew...it really cleaned it up.
I mentioned earlier I wasn't happy with the lower mounts, so was planning on moving them anyway. They need to go up to just above the bottom level of the axle tube, to keep the other Brett from giving me a hard time about it.

 

This is as close as I could get the bump to make contact. The other wheel is off the ground.
Spring pack was just slightly arched over backwards.

Lots of stroke left on the shock, so good to know.

 

Time to do some fab work.

 

Mine just barely touch when flexing, but are necessary to prevent the shocks from bottoming out on vertical travel.

 

Yeah, I'll be making a few changes.

 

Cleaned this up today. Shock has more down travel and less wasted up travel now. Better clearance too

Original.

Redo.

 

Brett, I was over at Scotty's shop yesterday. I am trying to figure how I can modify his front plate bumper design to hold a hang glider/lumber rack (described poorly here) and accept a moveable winch (described here). He is a really patient guy. I asked many questions. One thing I forgot to ask was about adding attachment points to enable a hi-lift to be used. He said it is more than strong enough and ideally one should lift where the bottom tube is welded to the bottom plate.
-Where and how do you currently lift?
-Where would you add shackles or T slots or other hi-lift attachment points or would you advise not to?
I plan to paint with something easy to touch up but would rather have a non-marring location to lift from. I appreciate your opinion.
Thanks, Pete

 

Currently I lift from the sliders. The bumpers are too high for a standard height Hi-Lift.

Entirely up to you. I think they would be a good idea.

 

I feel webbing around that lower steel tube would be possible and not likely to dent/mar the plate. I doubt one of these would work on it. And i do not know enough about the bumper to start plasma cutting T slots or adding schackles.
I suppose i can play with it later because i am 85% sure i am buying one. Just working some technical issues out. Like This.

Thanks