Brett's average build thread

Deathbysnusnu · Oct 30, 2016

Maybe some tiny chrome spikes...

303tacoma · Oct 30, 2016

BDN said: ↑

These wheels.....
So there are a bunch of holes that were left behind when I pulled out the rest of the plastic plugs that the trail didn't remove for me.
The holes do not go through, they are not threaded.
Should I leave them alone?

New steel bolts might throw off the balance as well as get torn out again.
Maybe fill them with black silicone? or just leave them and see what happens?
Click to expand...

I like the silicone idea, at least this way they're not just open holes

Deathbysnusnu · Oct 30, 2016

303tacoma said: ↑

I like the silicone idea, at least this way they're not just open holes
Click to expand...

That's what I'm leaning towards. You really don't notice them from 10 feet away. I bet they show up good after running through the snow, might even look cool. But filling with mud is the bigger concern, then having to dig it out.

303tacoma · Oct 30, 2016

Yeah I would be worried about what would get in the holes rather than how it looks...

Deathbysnusnu · Oct 30, 2016

303tacoma said: ↑

Yeah I would be worried about what would get in the holes rather than how it looks...
Click to expand...

I would tend to agree, but this being Fort Collins, a certain level of mall crawler status must be maintained or I will be shunned.

303tacoma · Oct 30, 2016

BDN said: ↑

I would tend to agree, but this being Fort Collins, a certain level of mall crawler status must be maintained or I will be shunned.
Click to expand...

Hahaha and that would suck to be shunned!!!!!

teamhypoxia · Oct 30, 2016

BDN said: ↑

These wheels.....
So there are a bunch of holes that were left behind when I pulled out the rest of the plastic plugs that the trail didn't remove for me.
The holes do not go through, they are not threaded.
Should I leave them alone?

New steel bolts might throw off the balance as well as get torn out again.
Maybe fill them with black silicone? or just leave them and see what happens?
Click to expand...

I bet there's a place at the mall where you could get shiny multi colored beads to bedazzle them with.

Deathbysnusnu · Oct 30, 2016

teamhypoxia said: ↑

I bet there's a place at the mall where you could get shiny multi colored beads to bedazzle them with.
Click to expand...

Like this?

teamhypoxia · Oct 30, 2016

BDN said: ↑

Like this?

Click to expand...

Kinda your style no?

Deathbysnusnu · Oct 30, 2016

teamhypoxia said: ↑

Kinda your style no?
Click to expand...

meh

Deathbysnusnu · Nov 3, 2016

Storing this here,

SilverGhost · Nov 18, 2016

Just got my bonus. Time to start stalking you.

thefatkid · Nov 18, 2016

SilverGhost said: ↑

Just got my bonus. Time to start stalking you.
Click to expand...

Locker time?

SilverGhost · Nov 18, 2016

BDN said: ↑

Time to resurrect this thread.
Remove the drivers front tire and if you still have the spare in the stock location, remove that too.
Front Range Off Road Rear brake proportioning valve install and LSVP delete.
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/
The complete kit, valve and adapters.

BEFORE YOU START< TAKE NOTE OF THE ADAPTERS< EACH TUBE ADAPTER HAS AN SAE THREAD AND A METRIC THREAD>
The right is metric. The left is SAE. The SAE ends go into the brass fittings supplied with the valve. The Union that comes with the kit is metric.
I bring this up because the threads are dangerously close to each other and will thread into each other, but most likely leak and may cause a bad day.

You will also need a set of metric and SAE line wrenches. Don't attempt with open end wrenches, it will deform the fitting.

This is where I want it to sit. I want to keep it clean and be able to easily access it if needed. It can be mounted off the rear frame rail if desired.

A mild 45° angle in the adapter.

Aims it right at the clutch reservoir.

another 45° bend on the other end will clear the reservoir and gives you about 3-4 inches before it hits the firewall.

Click to expand...

BDN said: ↑

I removed the brake light indicator plug and a couple vacuum lines to make it easier..
We are working with the rear brake line on the master cylinder. Trace the thing before you start to make sure it's the one you want.

Rear line removed from MC and assembly loosely installed to check for fit.
The rear line I removed needed to be stretched, there is a coil midway that is useful for this. It then simply lays under the booster, I didn't need to make any bends in it, the factory bend worked beautifully to mate up to the union. Make sure the hard line is not resting/rubbing against anything to avoid leaks from abrasion.

Overexposed cause AZIZ, LIGHT!

I tighten the line in this order. Start by full threading the brass fittings into the valve and get then tight.

Next tighten the factory hard line to the supplied union.
Then the union to the adapter on the OUT side of the valve.
Then to the valve itself, and continue tightening the joints until you reach the MC. This allowed me to keep the valve where I wanted it and avoided kinking the lines.

The coil in the back is the one we are working with and is where I gained some stretch.

Click to expand...

BDN said: ↑

Next move down to the frame.
The "T" adapter is what we are working with here. You are making some changes to the front brakes as well, mainly losing the bypass feature.
Remove the top line where my finger is and remove the short bent up line that connects to the wheel soft line.

Then go back up top and stretch the forward coiled line, down, to get some needed line.

Bendy short line removed and the disconnected hard line from the MC now has a nice bend in it to line up with the soft line. Should be a total mess at this point.

Connected.

Should look like this when you are done. The "T" fitting is now unused and if it wasn't braised on I would remove it.
The fitting on the Right will be left alone, this is your line to the rear.

Save this, might come in handy someday.

Click to expand...

BDN said: ↑

Next we move to the rear frame rail where the pesky LSVP is located.
I was wondering which line it might be, directions said usually it's the top line.
Removal of the bottom line showed that it was bone dry, so must be the return line. And explains why things ain't working right.

Top line was wet, we have a winner. Use that line.

Remove all the lines, there are three. Remove the LSVP. Should look like this.

You need to put at least one bolt back to hold the soft line bracket in place.
I put them all back just because.

Next take that upper/wet line and put a nice 90° bend in it. I highly recommend a small tubing bender. Buy one before you start, it makes a huge difference and they are cheap. Bending by hand will result in a kink and a bad day.

And hook it up.

I have left the unused line in place. It could be removed with a little effort if you want. I might do it later but for now it's not bothering anything. Keep the old lines because parts is parts and these fittings are a bitch to source.

This is where I stopped. I then rinsed everything clean with water and started writing this up so it could dry. It will help when I go to bleed them so I can see the leaks if any.
Now off to bleed.
Click to expand...

Found it... thanks Brett

Deathbysnusnu · Nov 18, 2016

SilverGhost said: ↑

Found it... thanks Brett
Click to expand...

Did you pick up a proportioning valve?

SilverGhost · Nov 18, 2016

thefatkid said: ↑

Locker time?
Click to expand...

Not quite. Wish... tundra brakes and the valve. Steering rack too if there's left over after the wife's new tires she needs.

SilverGhost · Nov 18, 2016

BDN said: ↑

Did you pick up a proportioning valve?
Click to expand...

Going to once the check clears. Couple of days.

SilverGhost · Nov 18, 2016

Hey Brett they wanted to charge me 158.00 for the dam valve after shipping. The price on the website says 79.00 WTF! is that how much you spent on the shipping included?

Deathbysnusnu · Nov 18, 2016

SilverGhost said: ↑

Hey Brett they wanted to charge me 158.00 for the dam valve after shipping. The price on the website says 79.00 WTF! is that how much you spent on the shipping included?
Click to expand...

no way, let me look up the receipt...

Deathbysnusnu · Nov 18, 2016

SilverGhost said: ↑

Hey Brett they wanted to charge me 158.00 for the dam valve after shipping. The price on the website says 79.00 WTF! is that how much you spent on the shipping included?
Click to expand...

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Brett's average build thread

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Brett's average build thread

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Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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Deathbysnusnu [OP] Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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