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Broken EZ-Out Inside the Cab

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by skeezix, Dec 2, 2015.

  1. Dec 2, 2015 at 4:08 PM
    #1
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    While trying to remove the lower Phillips screw from the driver's handhold just infront of the door I rounded out the star in the screw, so I drilled out the center of the screw as best I could and used an EZ-out to remove it. Unfortunately I broke the EZ-out. :eek:

    Can't use heat to remove it. I do have a Dremel and also a die grinder but I'm not sure what kind of grinder tip to use. Don't have much room either.

    1. I could use suggestions for the grinder tip if anybody cares to offer them.

    2. I've searched for a DIY on removing the steering wheel but have not been successful. What is involved in removing it? It is in exactly the wrong place to allow adequate working space for the screw removal.

    Broken EZ Out 1..jpg Broken EZ Out 2..jpg
     
  2. Dec 2, 2015 at 4:16 PM
    #2
    Cypherian

    Cypherian Well-Known Member

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    Double cut ball rotary file for the dremel to eat the head away to get handle off then you might be able to get needle nose vise grips on the stub and remove. A left twist cobalt drill bit th same size or just under the size if the head might back the whole thing out if you can get one . If not refer back to the first idea. I can not help on the steering wheel sorry.
    Cypherian
    http://www.amazon.com/Shank-Double-Cut-Carbide-Grinding-Burr/dp/B005LVRCFY
     
  3. Dec 2, 2015 at 5:15 PM
    #3
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    I removed my steering wheel a few years ago. The only special tool I had to get was a SW puller.
    Its been a while, so this is only from memory, and a later model truck ('99):

    First, disconnect the battery (to make sure the air bag doesn't accidentally explode in your face)
    The, remove the air bag
    - remove 2 little round caps on opposite sides of the steering wheel case (for access to screws)
    - remove the 2 phillips head screws that secure the air bag
    - lift up on the bag, and reach behind it to disconnect the yellow connector
    Disconnect the horn wire, and CC wire (if you have CC)
    Remove the large nut (19mm?)
    If the SW doesn't pull out by hand, then you need the puller to remove the wheel.
     
  4. Dec 2, 2015 at 5:21 PM
    #4
    bjmoose

    bjmoose Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    If the only reason to remove the steering wheel is to get access to that handle, I'd punt that.

    The fastener with the easy out - isn't it both philips AND hex head? Can't you put a nut driver on it??
     
  5. Dec 4, 2015 at 11:42 AM
    #5
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't know why that screw is in so damned tight. :annoyed:

    @Cypherian - Thanks for the link. I never thought about grinding off the entire head. I think that is probably the only possibility.

    @tan4x4 - Thanks for the instructions on removing the steering wheel.

    @bjmoose - I'm afraid it's not hex head. Just a big fat Phillips head. More than likely one of those screws that LOOKS like a Phillips but in reality is not.
     
  6. Dec 4, 2015 at 11:56 AM
    #6
    arifleman

    arifleman Well-Known Member

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    I like the little Dremel 409 Cut Off Wheels,http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-409-Cu...49258635&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+cutting+wheel. That's a tight spot, so I would try and wear the cut-off wheel down on something else (not hard to do!), and when it is smaller sized, try and cut a flat head screwdriver slot in that head. You may end up having to slice a small piece of trim (been there, done that).

    Those handhold crews are in wicked tight. On a stubborn one like that, I would put some quality penetrating oil in there and use an appropriate screwdriver tip with an impact wrench. That will usually move anything stubborn.
     
  7. Dec 5, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #7
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    >>Those handhold crews are in wicked tight.

    Yes, they are!
     
  8. Dec 5, 2015 at 10:52 AM
    #8
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    The reason is stripped is because IT IS NOT a philips screw head!

    Its a JIS screw, these have a flat bottom that the point on a phillips bit will hit and not fully engage.

    http://www.dansmc.com/jis_screw.htm
     
    02MtnTaco likes this.
  9. Dec 5, 2015 at 11:15 AM
    #9
    CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

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    The bolt has thread locker on it is the reason it is so tight. What you need is a soldering iron to isolate the heat just on the bolt. Once heated, the thread locker will melt allowing the removal. You should try the power mirror stainless steel Philips head screws. I snapped 2 out of the 3 before I realized what was going on.
     
    Snowman likes this.
  10. Dec 5, 2015 at 11:15 AM
    #10
    gottaToy

    gottaToy Well-Known Member

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    EZ outs don't work worth the crap anyway, would've been better off using a punch and making a slot or something or driving an old bit into it to get a grip. Now you are screwed because the ez out is hard as hell, so that makes drilling it out kinda difficult
     
  11. Dec 5, 2015 at 11:17 AM
    #11
    GreeGunc

    GreeGunc Full of regret

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    Don't know if you can get to it, but I've cut a slit in the screw to use a flat head on it.
     
  12. Dec 5, 2015 at 11:55 AM
    #12
    arifleman

    arifleman Well-Known Member

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    CD20H nails it - great advice here: "The bolt has thread locker on it is the reason it is so tight. What you need is a soldering iron to isolate the heat just on the bolt. Once heated, the thread locker will melt allowing the removal."

    GottaToy: "EZ outs don't work worth the crap anyway.." Amen to that brother!!
     
  13. Dec 5, 2015 at 12:04 PM
    #13
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma 1 Bar Club

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    Cut a slot with the dremel to create a flat spot on the screw for a flathead screwdriver to fit on and turn as previously mentioned. Problem solved. Good luck!
     
  14. Dec 6, 2015 at 10:34 AM
    #14
    skeezix

    skeezix [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @Caligula -

    >>If you are having trouble finding the right bit to buy for your impact driver, I usually use a NAPA #3 (Part #35031) Phillips Bit for the JIS 6mm screws and a NAPA #2 (Part #35021) Phillips bit for smaller JIS 5mm screws. >>

    Yes, you are most likely right about it being a JIS screw.

    I went to the link you gave and at about 2/3 the way down I read what I started this reply with. That's one of the reasons for my confusion - it says one person uses NAPA #3 Phillips bit for the 6mm JIS screw...

    Anyway, its a moot point. The screw head is boogered and I'll have to Dremel it off. That'll have to wait until I get another car for the wife to use.

    I'll post back here when I get the screw removed.

    If I get the screw removed. :(
     

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