Broken wire on door lock actuator connector

Has anyone depinned any wires on the female connector? I need to do a repair and don't know what type of connectors and crimpers to use. I believe they are JST judging from my research.

TYIA

 

Got a pic?

Here's a video - 1 of many - showing how to re-use pinned wiring by removing the pins and reinstalling in the new connector.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W9IvtPmw62Q

Might find the new connector here:

https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=157

 

Hey Yota Dude

Unfortunately I don't have a pic. I put everything back together again the other day. All I know is that it is a female connector with 8pins. I have looked at many videos on how to de-pin all types of connectors. None seem to be similar as mine. I don't see any release points in mine.

When I have a chance I will take it back out of my truck and post a picture. I am not even sure that if I repair the wire with a new connecting pin that it will fix my issue which is the power lock button doesn't work. I may still have a dead motor in the door lock actuator.

 

Would it make sense to force some power to the lock motor before attacking connectors? Or at least compare continuity and resistance readings to the one on the other side?

 

Jpg

I believe my blue wire is the culprit which feeds power to the motor. Once I make the repair I can test the motor however that won't prove it is strong enough to turn the gears.

 

Yota Dude

Here is a picture of the connector. Not mine but an example off of Ebay

 

Have removed pins from old connectors and installed in new ones using the techniques in the video. Have also spliced in new connectors by soldering the individual wires and heat shrinking. There may be the correct connector available at the web site noted. Toyota also sells connectors. Have also decrimped and recrimped/soldered a connector on the end of a single wire that became damaged (separated) at the connector by trimming the wire insulation back slightly and reattaching because there was enough length in the wiring harness to do so.

 

PpToyota Dude

I found this video that shows a connector very similar to mine. I'll have to remove everything AGAIN and see if I can get the wire repaired. I need to buy the wire stripper tool, the barrel crimper and a set of barrel connecting pins prior to

https://youtu.be/y_Ib1d18Eno?si=kNGSj4qN3RjKit2U

 

Yes this is an opportunity to add some tools to your chest that you might use again later. I have found they're great to have in a pinch when need to fix something overnight and don't have time to reorder something and wait a week.

Also I tend to also solder instead of just crimp especially when adding things like but splice connectors for trailer harness etc.

But have you traced that your blue wire ia broken or maybe there is another cause?

 

T-dude

The blue wire is completely disconnected from the connector. I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram to confirm if it is the exact wire or one of two which locks/unlocks the doors. My guess is that it is because everything else works.

 

Ah. Just like the repair pictured! Sounds like that's the cause. IIRC used various dental picks had collected over time but there are pin keys sold on the rain forest store and elsewhere.

 

T-dude

Just following up...after buying a set of crimper, wire strippers and side cutters and then unable to find the right size barrel connector, I went ahead and bought a new set of door lock actuators on Ebay.
I replaced the driver's side and it now works like a charm. At least I have the necessary tools if I ever need to do a wiring repair.

 

Great to hear! Nice you got it repaired. I usually like to solder the wires and cover with a shrink wrap instead of use crimp connectors anyway. It's great you have the tools now and that's how I collected a lot of what I have by getting what I needed along the way. Then started looking for what I thought I'd need next and finding on sale...tools and parts.