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Bypassing the Reisistors on LED Turn Signaling Bulbs

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by BLKTRDPRO, Feb 23, 2019.

  1. Feb 23, 2019 at 12:17 PM
    #1
    BLKTRDPRO

    BLKTRDPRO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    I want to change my front turn signal bulbs to LED, I heard that I am required to have a reisistor. Is there anyway that I can bypass the need of having a resistor? Thanks.
     
  2. Feb 23, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    No. Without the resistors you will get hyper-flashing. They are not difficult to install
     
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  3. Feb 23, 2019 at 12:24 PM
    #3
    slowlane

    slowlane Well-Known Member

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  4. Feb 23, 2019 at 12:29 PM
    #4
    bonifacio

    bonifacio Well-Known Member

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    I also just picked up the same ones. No issues. 10 second install.
    Brighter and gets rid of the orange/amber in the headlight.

    I've been reading a lot about the LED turn signals. It seems a lot of the fronts will be fine without resistors. Once you install LED's in the rear, hyperflashing will occur. Something with the load/draw disbursement. @BLKTRDPRO - Read here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/led-lighting-conversion.436865/page-205
    Start at 205 and go backwards. A lot of updates since then. Don't even bother reading in the beginning. Only thing I've seen is that some of the cheaper options will work fine for the fronts because of the way the Tacoma's are wired.

    I was eyeballing this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6S5NBR

    [​IMG]

    Resistor is build into the small housing and you have plenty of room between the body and rear tail light. I like this because it's easy and priced well.
    @mesojdm also has a plug n play kit. The benefit of this is utilizing the entire taillight for better output/visibility. Does cost more $$$. I believe $110 - $240 depending on which kit. Also features the switchback.
    Others also make adapters for the lights where they are plug and play. No splicing or soldering.

    Rear turns are 7443 and Front turns are 7440. There are ways around splicing/soldering. Just do your research. Sometimes it's better to buy your own adapter/connectors and make your own harness. Seems like a lot of them come apart over time. Can always buy a harness and just make it better. Get shrink wrap and solder the connections. You can usually find a set for $8-$20. Just find a good mounting point.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2019
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  5. Feb 23, 2019 at 1:01 PM
    #5
    COSTCOHOTDOG

    COSTCOHOTDOG Well-Known Member

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  6. Feb 23, 2019 at 1:24 PM
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    slowlane

    slowlane Well-Known Member

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  7. Feb 23, 2019 at 2:14 PM
    #7
    ShirtTucker

    ShirtTucker Un-Known Member

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    Lots-o-stuff
    There is a lot of talk about hyper-flashing, which may, or may not happen if you're only replacing the fronts, but there is something else to watch out for if you start swapping in more LEDs; a single flash, or no flashing at all.

    After replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs, check for proper functionality with the engine off, AND with the engine running. The system might flash properly with the engine off, but may flash once, or not at all, with the engine running. Properly sized resistors will eliminate this issue. If you have LEDs all around, a 10 ohm resistor in each taillight circuit seems to be the sweet spot.
     
  8. Feb 23, 2019 at 2:38 PM
    #8
    BearWithMe

    BearWithMe Well-Known Member

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    I've also found having the headlights on versus off can produce different hyperflash results. Test it both ways.

    I ended up with 15-ohm resistors wired into the rear turn signals (also converted to LED) but didn't need resistors in the front after putting in the LED bulb.
     
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  9. Feb 25, 2019 at 6:05 AM
    #9
    Tacosrus

    Tacosrus ipso facto

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    So the XSpeeds look good for the fronts. What about the rears. They are clear. Or you could you use Red. What is everyone using for rear LEDs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2019
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  10. Jun 4, 2019 at 10:16 PM
    #10
    Knapz

    Knapz Well-Known Member

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  11. Jun 5, 2019 at 9:11 AM
    #11
    Vinci

    Vinci Well-Known Member

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    Hyperflash happens when the total power load of the turn signal circuit drops below some critical level. The system interprets that as a bulb out and hyperflashes to indicate that a bulb failed.

    Since modifying the flasher circuit itself isn't feasible, avoiding hyperflash when converting to LEDs is a game of keeping the load of the flasher circuit high enough not to hyperflash and low enough not to overload the circuit.

    In my iterations of bulb combinations, I found that you can get different results with different bulb combinations, as well as different electrical system statuses on the truck (ignition on/off, lights on/off, etc.).

    If you aren't doing anything really fancy (aka: Meso mods), you can replace all your standard signal bulbs with LED and know that you'll need a load resistor per side for the turn signals. 6-ohm will work, but you can get away with 10-ohm or maybe higher. You do NOT need a resistor per bulb. You need one per CIRCUIT. It can be installed in the front or back and makes no difference electrically.
     
  12. Jun 5, 2019 at 3:12 PM
    #12
    Xx_Evilvirus_xX

    Xx_Evilvirus_xX Well-Known Member

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    Why not?
     
  13. Jun 6, 2019 at 5:20 AM
    #13
    Vinci

    Vinci Well-Known Member

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    The flasher is built into the instrument cluster. It isn't a standalone relay.
     
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  14. Jun 6, 2019 at 6:42 AM
    #14
    elduder

    elduder Well-Known Member

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    As resistance drops the current through the circuit increases, the increased current causes the pulse of the blink to increase in speed. Basically the lower resistance of the LED circuit results in more power through the bulb. This is why some people have blown fuses or have other issues when installing LEDs in modern vehicles. If you had a voltmeter with the resistance function you could measure the OEM bulb from lead to lead and compare against the LED you have to put it. The difference would tell you what type of resistor you would need.

    *edit* The reason for hyper flash from a blown bulb is similar, the loss of resistance in the bulb circuit results in another bulb receiving more current.
     
  15. Jun 6, 2019 at 7:19 AM
    #15
    Vinci

    Vinci Well-Known Member

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    It's not a matter of resistance in the circuit. LEDs aren't a resistive load. The circuit is only concerned with current. To determine the size of the resistor, you need to figure out what size resistor will mimic the load of the bulb you're replacing.

    EXAMPLE: If you're replacing a 15w bulb with a 1w LED, you need to find a resistor to dissipate 14w to make up the difference. In practice, that value can be more or less and still fall within the tolerances of the circuit. Ohm's law will get you the exact value.

    Power (P) = Current (I) x Voltage (V): 14w = I x 14.4v = .97 amps
    Voltage (V) = Current (I) x Resistance (R): 14.4v = .97A x R = 14.8 ohms
     
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  16. Jun 6, 2019 at 8:15 AM
    #16
    Xx_Evilvirus_xX

    Xx_Evilvirus_xX Well-Known Member

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    That would explain why I couldn't find it when I was installing my dashcam. Thanks
     
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