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C4 FAB '05-current (bolt on) Rock Slider Installation Instructions. DCSB/ACLB

Discussion in 'C4 Fabrication' started by C4 Fabrication, Aug 7, 2016.

  1. Aug 7, 2016 at 9:50 AM
    #1
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    2" lift, 285/70/17 BFG TA KO2's, baja bumper, bedrack with swing out, CVT RTT, Leather interior, heated seats, JBL, remote start, K&N intake, Hood Scoop LED lightbar mod.
    Hey everyone, here are the install instructions for our bolt-on rock sliders for the '05-current DCSB and ACLB Tacoma's. These photos were taken while installing a set on a 3rd gen. The instructions will be the same for 2nd gen models as well. The only difference is that the 2nd gen owners will not have the electrical box connection to relocate on the passenger side.

    These sliders can be installed as 100% bolt-on with no drilling but, if you use your sliders heavily off-road we recommend drilling the holes in the bottom of the frame rails and installing the extra hardware.

    Hardware included:
    -12) 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolts
    -12) 1/2" flat washers
    -1) nuts on a stick, front driver side (reaches inside boxed portion of frame rail)
    -1) nut on a stick, rear driver side near fuel tank.
    -1) nuts on a stick, front passenger side (reaches inside boxed portion of frame rail)
    -5) nuts on a plate (2" x 2" plate)
    -2) nuts on a plate (2" x 1 1/2" plate)
    -4) 3/8" x 1" thread cutting screws
    -6) 3/8" x 1" carriage head bolts
    -6) 3/8" nuts
    -6) 3/8" flat washers.

    Here are photos of the hardware included:
    Driver side
    DSCN3719.jpg
    DSCN3720.jpg

    Passenger side

    DSCN3722.jpg
    DSCN3721.jpg


    Tools required:
    -Friend to help hold sliders up in place. (each slider weighs about 75 lbs)
    -Jack stands to also help hold sliders in position.
    -10mm wrench/socket
    -12mm wrench/socket
    -9/16" wrench/socket (one of each may be required)
    -3/4" wrench/socket (one of each may be required)
    -Drill
    -5/16" drill bit
    -3/8" drill bit (Use high quality drill bits. We recommend Irwin Turbo bits. They have an extra point at the tip that helps get started easier and helps the drill bit cut faster)
    -Flat head screw driver
    -WD-40 or drill/tap lube.
    -Flashlight
    -Blanket or cardboard to lay on shop floor.
    -Safety gear! Glasses, gloves, long sleeves, especially if you are drilling the holes through the frame rails for the extra mounting hardware.

    1) First off you will need to remove the round rubber cover and the rectangle plastic cap covering the holes in the frame rail on both sides near the large body mount bracket. Not all models have these covers, so some of you may not need to do this. Use the flat head screw driver to get under the edge and pry the covers off.
    DSCN3613.jpg
    DSCN3614.jpg
    DSCN3618.jpg

    2) Remove these two nuts from the driver side using the 12mm wrench or socket.
    DSCN2776.jpg
    3) Pull the bracket away from the inside of the frame rail on the driver side.
    DSCN2779.jpg
    4) Pry the hard steel lines out of the plastic clip. Move the lines up so that the bottom line clips into the top plastic clip. The top line will be fine above it without a mounting clip. These lines need to be moved away from the hole in the frame so that a bolt can pass through.
    DSCN2780.jpg
    DSCN2784.jpg
    DSCN2788.jpg
    5) Adjust the lines near the fuel tank up and away from this hole so another bolt can pass through.
    DSCN2785.jpg
    6) Remove the bolt for the wiring harness bracket on the driver side. The slider mounting plate will fit up behind this bracket.
    DSCN2791.jpg
    7) I must have forgotten to get a picture of this step, but you will need to also pop the plastic clip out of the frame on the driver side for the same wiring harness as the above step. The wiring harness needs to be pushed up to the top of the frame so that it does not interfere with the slider mounts.
    8) Move to the passenger side and remove this wiring harness bracket cover using the 10mm wrench or socket.
    DSCN2792.jpg
    9) Then remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the frame using the 12mm wrench or socket.
    DSCN2795.jpg
    10) I know this photo shows both bolts still in the bracket, but you only need to leave the bolt on the right in the hole on the metal bracket. Then re-install the plastic cover to the bracket.
    Leave the bracket hanging from the frame for now. It will get re-installed after the sliders are in place.
    DSCN2802.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2016
  2. Aug 7, 2016 at 10:39 AM
    #2
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    11) Lay the sliders in position on each side of the truck.
    Slider%20install12_zps3dtd1lmt_99c2cb0763d4f84ec4a36f8d93d08af7ea092a4f.jpg
    12) Lift the sliders up into position. Once they are close to the correct position, they can be set on jack stands to help support the weight while you get some of the bolts started.
    Slider%20install02_zpsrbs7eyli_46bc3aeec27213b3a3b50fc22c96c979194f778f.jpg
    13) We recommend getting the electrical box in position on the driver side first and putting these two nuts in place to help hold the slider in position. Do not tighten any of the nuts or bolts until all of the hardware is in position!
    Slider%20install02_zpssnwkzavd_3978ff1b0dd8cac4853f54a1afe0ba2984560369.jpg

    14) Then install the 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolts through the large holes in the frame rail where the steel fuel lines were re-positioned earlier.
    Install the captured 1/2" nuts on the back side of the bolts. These pictures show where all of the 1/2" bolts go through the rock slider plate and frame. They also show the 8mm nuts and the 10mm bolt that get re-attached to the frame in their original position.
    DSCN3294.jpg
    DSCN3295.jpg
    DSCN3296.jpg
    These photos show where the captured nuts go on the back side of the frame.
    DSCN3299.jpg
    Use this captured nut on a stick to reach in between the fuel tank and frame for the end mounting hole at the back of the rock slider on the driver side.
    DSCN3723.jpg
    Use these captured nuts on a stick to reach into the boxed portion of the frame rail at the front of the rock slider. The 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolts will fit through the holes in the frame where the plastic and rubber plugs were removed at the beginning of the instructions.
    DSCN3724.jpg
    slider%20install%203_zps4cxlcaww_0e443983aa7d2f84ce914269d948e08d55af5c73.jpg
    DSCN3301.jpg
    DSCN3304.jpg

    15) The installation process is the same on the passenger side. Use these captured nuts on a stick to reach into the boxed portion of the frame rail at the front of the rock sliders.
    DSCN3725.jpg
    16) Once you have all of the 1/2" bolts and captured nuts in place, you can tighten them just enough to hold the slider up so that it doesnt tilt away from the frame, but loose enough that you can still slightly adjust the slider.
    Now the electrical connector bracket and cover need to be re-installed on the passenger side. When re-installing the bracket, you will only use one of the original two mounting bolts (the one on the left side that we left in the bracket before putting the plastic cover on earlier).
    Push the bracket over to the right (towards the front of the vehicle) enough so that the one bolt can be installed in the original hole that is on the right side (closest to front of the vehicle). Use a 12mm wrench to install the bolt and hold the bracket in place.
    DSCN3305.jpg

    17) Now that all of your hardware on the vertical portion of the frame rail is installed, lift up on the sliders at the frame mounting points on the bottom of the frame to make sure the sliders are sitting tight up against the bottom of the frame rail.
    Fully tighten all of the hardware that is currently installed.
    18) if you are using these sliders as a light duty purpose and do not want to drill holes in the frame of your truck for the extra mounting hardware, then the install is finished.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
  3. Aug 7, 2016 at 11:13 AM
    #3
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    2" lift, 285/70/17 BFG TA KO2's, baja bumper, bedrack with swing out, CVT RTT, Leather interior, heated seats, JBL, remote start, K&N intake, Hood Scoop LED lightbar mod.
    This is the extra hardware install portion that is highly recommended/required for heavy off-road use.

    We recommend wearing long sleeves, gloves and obviously safety glasses to protect from the hot metal shavings while drilling through the frame rails!

    19) Use the drill and 5/16" drill bit to drill up through the bottom of the frame rails at the forward mounting bracket of the rock sliders. There are two holes on both the driver and passenger side.

    20) Install a socket driver into your drill (do not use an impact drill) and attach a 9/16" socket to the socket driver.

    21) Apply a small amount of WD-40 or drill/tap lube to the 3/8" thread cutting screws. Use the drill to power tap the thread cutting bolts right up into the bottom of the frame rail. Hold the drill perpendicular to the frame and use even pressure with the drill on a low speed setting. The thread cutting screws will thread themselves into the frame rail. If your drill is not powerful enough to thread the screws in by itself, you can finish the job with a socket wrench.
    DSCN3726.jpg
    DSCN3727.jpg
    Here is where the thread cutting screws get installed on each side
    DSCN3297.jpg

    22) Next you will drill a 3/8" hole up through the bottom of the frame rails on both sides where each square hole is located in the rock slider frame mounting plate. After the holes are drilled through, you can install the 6) 3/8" x 1" carriage head bolts with washers and nuts on the inside of the frame rail.
    You can see the carriage head bolts installed here:
    DSCN3303.jpg
    Perform a final check that all bolts are tight and your install is complete!
     
  4. Aug 7, 2016 at 3:01 PM
    #4
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    2" lift, 285/70/17 BFG TA KO2's, baja bumper, bedrack with swing out, CVT RTT, Leather interior, heated seats, JBL, remote start, K&N intake, Hood Scoop LED lightbar mod.
    Here are a couple pics of what your sliders will look like all installed. Thanks to @infamous_6969 for posting up a few nice ones on his build thread.
    Slider%20install04_zpscyd3lj4t_c0ab07d5c028103f5dc1861406e4749e715df6e2.jpg
    Slider%20install10_zpsdxenfffn_aca6ff2cb3419ba4ce6f1ae3ae5579db1d1c3b16.jpg
    Slider%20install_zpsncerdznk_cd4e286b815ffc72603ee73ace1e536b8d37c547.jpg
    Slider%20install06_zps7d9jub31_26bc8cd4c227ed506d8597b4420571f5b66e8396.jpg
     
  5. Aug 23, 2016 at 8:21 AM
    #5
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Awesome looking sliders you've got there!
     
  6. Aug 24, 2016 at 6:27 AM
    #6
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Thank you! We are currently having a 15% off Labor Day sale right now if you are interested.
     
  7. Aug 24, 2016 at 6:31 AM
    #7
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    I love the look of your sliders but unfortunately I already have some. What else does the sale cover?
     
  8. Aug 24, 2016 at 6:35 AM
    #8
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    The sale is for everything on our website. www.c4fabrication.com
     
  9. Aug 24, 2016 at 6:50 AM
    #9
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Awesome. Is the sale ending on the 5th?
     
  10. Aug 24, 2016 at 6:51 AM
    #10
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    yes it does.
     
  11. Aug 24, 2016 at 7:10 AM
    #11
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Excellent I will be contacting you
     
  12. Aug 24, 2016 at 7:13 AM
    #12
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Great, thanks!
     
  13. Aug 28, 2016 at 8:05 AM
    #13
    Divaythe

    Divaythe Member

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    Do you guys make ones that fit DCLB?
     
  14. Aug 28, 2016 at 10:14 AM
    #14
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Yes we are currently working on them right now. We will have them on the website in a couple days.
     
    Divaythe likes this.
  15. Oct 10, 2016 at 9:21 PM
    #15
    RBfastback

    RBfastback It's Got Electrolytes

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    hey guys do u have any pictures of your sliders on a 2016 tacoma without the bolt on step pads?

    i think i like the sliders look with NO flat top steps better.

    also say i ordered them without the bolt on steps pads then changed my mind later, can i add them? are the holes there?
     
  16. Oct 11, 2016 at 6:21 AM
    #16
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    2" lift, 285/70/17 BFG TA KO2's, baja bumper, bedrack with swing out, CVT RTT, Leather interior, heated seats, JBL, remote start, K&N intake, Hood Scoop LED lightbar mod.
    Sorry we do not have any pics without the steps. We have not had any customers order them that way. If you order them without the steps, the holes for the steps will not be in the sliders. So if you want to add the steps later, you would have to drill the holes and install the screws yourself.
     
  17. Dec 30, 2016 at 7:45 AM
    #17
    Caboose117

    Caboose117 foul mouthed Marine

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    smashed this, broke that, covered it up with tape and paint
    Okay, so here is my install report :)
    first impressions on pick up- DOOOOOOD these look great!
    So i took mine to get linex'd since powdercoat wasnt a local option. DO NOT DO IT, Linex made the install of these near impossible and i had to cut off sooooooo much of the linex coating to get things to sit properly and still had issues because the linex made the holes in the sliders smaller so it made it that much harder to get hardware into the sliders and frame, It also made some of the bolts too short to reach through the slider and frame easily and still meet up to the nut without cross threading or missing them all together. i repeat DO NOT LINEX!!!

    SO from a common sense aspect install is pretty straight forward. line up all your bolts into the holes on the slider and do MULTIPLE mock ups before even begining to start bolting things on. I cannot stress how important it is that ALLLLLLLL holes line up or your brake line clips will not go back in place and the electronic boxes on driver and passenger side will not go back. SO make sure everything is lined up. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you use jacks to press the sliders against your frame to get the proper fit and avoid shifting.

    each side of my rock sliders only required a total of 5 Bolts on the side and as a side note i replaced all the grade 5 hardware included with grade 8 just for my own comfort and peace of mind.

    the captured nuts on a stick that allow you to reach into the frame more easily are a FANTASTIC idea but will require some bending based on YOUR TRUCK SPECIFICALLY due to the fact that in the closed portion of the frame there are pinch welds that cause the sticks to not be able to sit flat and that was yet another reason why i went to grade 8 bolts (they were longer and were less likely to cross thread)

    for the box that is on the passenger side of the frame i HIGHLY recommend you go out and find a replacement bolt to use when reinstalling it because of how short it is mine (with linex) was not able to reach back all the way like it should have and as a result i had to place mine into the mounting slot and then secure with some apoxy just to be safe (ANOTHER REASON LINEX IS NOT A GOOD IDEA LOL).

    all hardware included was grade 5 which is good but since i like my parts TORQUES pretty hard if you are like me i highly suggest replacing your washers with grade 8 or higher because i actually crushed and bent a majority of mine.

    as you'll see in my pictures there is also an issue where when my new bolts went in some of them were against my brake lines and that made me nervous so if it bothers you as well i highly recommend that you find a way to create a gap between the bolts and your lines like i did, (zip ties, and a plastic sleeve)

    I have not done the drilling of the frame yet to install my permanent hardware for the recommended offroad hardware but will be doing so shortly.

    If you are installing yours this winter like i did i would also HIGHLY suggest going to the carwash first to get the salt off your frame and then clean once more at home before starting the install to make sure that there is nothing that could cause corrosion over time, I will also be sealing all the places where the sliders are touching the frame with a rubber spray sealant to keep gunk and moisture less likely to get between it. (but again thats just me being overly cautious)

    i did have some minor issues with the quality of the mounting hardware i received which was another reason i went to grade 8 over the grade 5 included but i called and brought it to C4's attention and was told that the issue would be resolved moving forward so that you fine customers will not have the same concerns moving forward :) (VERY GOOD CUSTOMER SERVICE)

    overall the install was easy-ish
    it took me 14 hours over all to do but 90% of that was issues caused by the LINEX so let me stress again DONT DO LINEX (or rhinoliner)
    had i not had that crap on these the install would have taken less than 1-2 hours MAX

    overall i am VERY pleased with my products and will be ordering the front and rear bumpers shortly.
    Highly recommend their products and hope you guys find my words and pictures helpful.


    *;IGY6 BUILD TACOMA*


    IMG_3589.jpg IMG_3590.jpg IMG_3591.jpg IMG_2013.jpg IMG_2014.jpg IMG_2015.jpg IMG_2017.jpg IMG_2018.jpg IMG_2019.jpg IMG_2020.jpg IMG_2021.jpg IMG_2022.jpg IMG_2023.jpg IMG_2024.jpg IMG_2025.jpg IMG_2026.jpg IMG_2027.jpg IMG_2028.jpg IMG_2029.jpg
     
  18. Dec 30, 2016 at 2:25 PM
    #18
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Vehicle:
    07 DCLB Sport
    2" lift, 285/70/17 BFG TA KO2's, baja bumper, bedrack with swing out, CVT RTT, Leather interior, heated seats, JBL, remote start, K&N intake, Hood Scoop LED lightbar mod.
    Thank you for posting up your experience with the install and the helpful hints and pictures! Other potential customers like to read info from first hand experiences with the product. Also thank you for being understanding about the hardware issue we encountered, this has been resolved for all future customers. @Caboose117
     
    Txexplorer and Caboose117 like this.
  19. Jan 14, 2017 at 4:25 AM
    #19
    Akroedge540

    Akroedge540 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    Member:
    #182050
    Messages:
    91
    I just installed my sliders on my 3rd gen. I ended up rattle canning the slider portion, and having the step plates line-x'd. I figured it was the best way to have the grip on the steps and still be able to repair paint scrapes etc. from rocks. Instead of drilling the extra holes I plan to weld the holes instead in those locations. It may not be something I'd wish to do everyday but I ended up installing mine solo. A couple of 5 gallon buckets were used in place of buddies (who wants to install truck stuff at 4am) and it turned out to almost be in a perfect position. Once they were secured, I used a jack to insure they were against the frame. Overall I found the install to be a lot less hassle than I had originally had planed. Thanks for a good product!
     
    Caboose117 likes this.
  20. Jan 16, 2017 at 7:26 AM
    #20
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2014
    Member:
    #128867
    Messages:
    1,235
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Caleb
    South Dakota
    Vehicle:
    07 DCLB Sport
    2" lift, 285/70/17 BFG TA KO2's, baja bumper, bedrack with swing out, CVT RTT, Leather interior, heated seats, JBL, remote start, K&N intake, Hood Scoop LED lightbar mod.
    Thats great to hear! Glad the install went well. Post up a pic of the Line-x steps with painted sliders when you get a chance. I havnt seen that combo done yet.
     
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