Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg

Here's my before and after mileage for a year. No real power gain has been noticed, less engine braking when letting off the gas gives a feeling of less rolling resistance.
*I run 2 sets of tires 255/85/16MT and 265/75/16AT, some low numbers are offroad

1 year before Cam gears Average 14.64397mpg


1year after Cam gears Average 15.30167mpg

 

Is this something you do just to verify the cams are installed correctly?

 

Urd has said that some of these trucks left the factory with incorrect timing. I haven't seen or heard of anyone here having that problem but it certainty doesn't hurt to check while your there.

 

Quick question -

What is the trick to release the piece holding the 2 heater hoses to the back of the intake?

I can see (in a mirror) what looks like a release, but haven't figured out to open it.

 

I will definitely check. It's only 36 rotations...

 

I think the trick is to go from the wheel well but I personally never installed these on a late model 2nd gen. @greenEFSI care to chime in?

 

Don't bother with the clip it will break and is not sold separately. Use a deep 10mm socket on a 1/4" ratchet and remove the 10mm bolt that secures the bracket to the manifold

 

Interesting...

I can get very close to it from the top, but there is limited room between the intake and the firewall.

I think I will find a bigger mirror, and see what I can see.

 

Thank you.

I'll give that a try.

 

Guessing NGK copper plugs?

4.56 is pretty ideal if you drive 65(+) on the freeway. I'm on 35s with 4.88 and I'd be happier with 4.56. I will change back down when the 8" axle breaks. No problem getting around 15mpg mixed driving otherwise.

 

There’s one tab on each hose that locks them on to the metal clip. With a mirror and a small pick or screwdriver you can get them off. When I helped @TheOnlyPajooned we pushed on the tabs the wrong way for 10 minutes and when we switched they came off right away. Can’t remember if it was pushing up or down on them that worked.

 

I found the bolt! It was easy to see on the other side of the engine.

Bolt out, continuing on my way. The SAIS is next...

 

Going through the wheel well will give you easier access to a few of those SAIS bolts.

 

Absolutely!

Also, I pulled out the rear mounting stud. The one steel pipe didn't want to move off the studs - it was easier to pull the mounting stud out of the valve cover.

 

Another question -

Fuel rail, driver's side, at the firewall end - I have what appears to be the fuel inlet, with a connector that is interfering with removal of the valve cover. I see the locking mechanism to release the fuel line.

Question is, is the line pressurized? If so, how do I gracefully release the pressure?

 

you shouldnt have to disconnect that. but if you're insistent on it needing to be done- there is little to no pressure in the line. it'll drip out some is all

 

So there is room to wiggle the VC forward to clear it? It didn't seem like it - but I didn't push too hard.

 

wiggle more, It'll clear

 

I will give it a try.

Thanks.

 

Yup. NGKs. After my Moab trip, I wish I was running 4.88s. But the 4.56 is decent for highway driving. On the 2nd tank of fuel now. Noticeable difference in power and smoothness of idle and shifting.