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Changing my spark plugs this weekend, couple questions

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Madjik_Man, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. Jun 20, 2012 at 7:48 PM
    #1
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I've read the thread and still have questions.

    1998 5VZFE

    In some of the threads it says the driver's side is Denso and the passenger's side is NGK. I know the debate lingers on but the dealership only sells Densos... that is OEM, correct? Is it fine if I just use Densos all around or are the NGKs that much better that I should seek them out?

    If I am going with Densos, which plug do I go with? Here's what Denso says for my year and engine: http://www.globaldenso.com/cgi-bin/global/plug/usa/4w/detail.cgi?filename=4w-64.txt&no=39126

    Seems like there is a couple of options?

    The dealer sells each plug for $3.44 does that sound reasonable? Or can I get them elsewhere for cheaper?

    I also read in some threads that the proper gap is 0.043, but on that above link it says 0.044. Is that difference so minute that is doesn't matter?

    Lastly, where do I get a gap tool? Any Oreillys or autozone?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Jun 20, 2012 at 7:53 PM
    #2
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    I did mine a few months ago. Used the densos at the dealership for all 6 and paid about $18. So that sounds right. They told me they were pre-gapped, and I don't know how to gap the dual electrode plugs anyway so I just put them in. It runs great and have not had any issues. You can get the gap tool at oriellys or any auto supply store I'm sure. Probably Walmart as well.
     
  3. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:07 PM
    #3
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Did you change the wires too, or just the plugs?

    How many miles were on your plugs?
     
  4. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:12 PM
    #4
    Tacomadude89

    Tacomadude89 Well-Known Member

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    Yes and yes.

    Might be able to get them elsewhere like on Rock Auto... but then you have to factor in the shipping cost.
     
  5. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:12 PM
    #5
    isu2014

    isu2014 RAT Products

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    View the build. Too much to list.
    When I replaced mine at 30k, the NGK's had more consistent gaps and showed less wear. I went with all NGK this time. Next time I will go with NGK iridium.
     
  6. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:12 PM
    #6
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    I just did plugs, not wires. Didnt even think of doing those at the time.

    Im the second owner and couldn't find any indication of a plug change in the papers the PO gave me, so if they were originals they had almost 60k miles on them. I didnt notice at the time, but I think all six I took out were densos so they may have been changed. All I know is they didn't look too bad. I just wanted to change them so I have a starting point at 60k miles to base future changes on.
     
  7. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:14 PM
    #7
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Also, I recommend cleaning your MAF and TB while you're doing the plugs. Takes a few minutes for the MAF sensor. I should have done my TB, but didn't have the time.
     
  8. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:24 PM
    #8
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    You use the same stuff to clean both right?

    And honestly, my plugs might have over 95,000 miles on them.

    The only service papers I have on them are at 58,000 miles.
     
  9. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:28 PM
    #9
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Nope... just found my bookmarks.
     
  10. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:32 PM
    #10
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Yeah at 95k I'd say it's about time lol. And yeah I would only clean the MAF with specific cleaner. I used stuff by CRC. as far as TB cleaning, I think they have specific cleaner. I've heard of some people using WD-40 or sea foam deep creep. Next time I change plugs or clean my MAF I'll give that a shot.
     
  11. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:38 PM
    #11
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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  12. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:44 PM
    #12
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    You can leave it in place or take it out. I think you just get a more thorough cleaning if you take it out.
     
  13. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:48 PM
    #13
    dad32509

    dad32509 Thinking of something clever

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    I have some ngk's I got for my 4 banger 01 prerunner, then I traded the truck in for my 2nd gen. Are you 3.4?
     
  14. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:50 PM
    #14
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yeah, 3.4
     
  15. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:51 PM
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    dad32509

    dad32509 Thinking of something clever

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    I dont know if they are the same but you can have em. Never used, bought them about a year and a half ago and now they sit with my pile of oem parts
     
  16. Jun 20, 2012 at 8:55 PM
    #16
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I appreciate the offer, but for $20 I'll just buy them from the dealer and not have to worry about waiting etc...
     
  17. Jun 21, 2012 at 5:14 PM
    #17
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    So I want to change my spark plug wires too.

    I always see everyone talking about NGK's wires.

    I found this: http://www.partsgeek.com/9qfqst2-toyota-tacoma-spark-plug-wire-set.html

    $26.85 for a set of three. It says that's all I need for the application because "one side is dirrect coil connection"

    Is this true. Is this all I need to fully change my spark plug wires?

    And if so, is $26.85 a good price for this set? I know it says retail price is $65 but I don't know if they're marking up just to make the sale look better.

    Thanks.
     
  18. Jun 21, 2012 at 5:32 PM
    #18
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    that is correct. when I did mine I ordered the Denso to be on the safe side, they were only a few dollars more. I would guess NGK is good since its japanese. remember the 3.4 uses a slave spark system so you only have 3 coils.
    the 3 wires are differant lengths, the way they wrap around, so be careful and do one at a time, to match them up.
     
  19. Jun 21, 2012 at 5:32 PM
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    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    Denso K16TR11 all around. Don't mess around with different plugs.

    Get a gauge like this, which you need to get between the pronged electrode tips:
    [​IMG]

    All the gaps were fine out of the box when I got mine recently, but you should check.

    For the throttle body, take it off and clean it on your bench. Much easier, and you can do a much more thorough job. You should get two gaskets: the aluminum crush gasket between the TB and intake plenum, and the rubber one for the IAC valve at the bottom of the TB, which you should take off. Otherwise, when you spray cleaner into the TB, it will drain into the IAC, concentrating all that lovely black goo in there and fouling it worse.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    More pics in my gallery. I thought I had the part numbers for the gaskets in there, too, but I guess I didn't upload to TW.
     
  20. Jun 21, 2012 at 5:41 PM
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    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    very good pics! you will shit when you see how dirty they get! I spent the better part of 2 days cleaning mine. get some cheap toothbrushes
     
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