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Changing O2 Sensor - Quick question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by GT5050, Jun 22, 2012.

  1. Jun 22, 2012 at 8:08 AM
    #1
    GT5050

    GT5050 [OP] Active Member

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    So my "check engine" light came on, had a mechanic diagnose, turns out it was sensor 1 bank 1. So that's the before Cat or upstream O2 sensor. Looks like a straightforward swap, already have my part, ready to go.

    Only question I have is after I swap the part, will the "check engine" light reset and turn off by itself after a few miles or do I need to go and have it reset?
     
  2. Jun 22, 2012 at 12:07 PM
    #2
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    NO you need to take the neg. cable off for about 20 mins.
    now if it was me, i just replaced both sensors, get them both at one time, get a can of power blaster and hit the nuts a few times for several days to loosen them,

    your truck will run better
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jun 22, 2012 at 12:07 PM
    #3
    pippen

    pippen that was'nt a vitamin!!

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    I believe Bank 1 is the upstream, its before your first catalytic converter. I'm about to buy a sensor myself and do the same process, the lady at the auto store here read my codes and reset them for me, I guess you could disconnect your battery and do it yourself...thats if it does'nt reset on its own. Did you buy the universal one or what? The guy at the auto store told me to stay away from the universal one and that some cars do not like them at all, I'd like to think he knows whats up but it could be all hot air comming out his face hole. :)
     
  4. Jun 22, 2012 at 12:22 PM
    #4
    GT5050

    GT5050 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks! I'm hoping changing it will help fuel economy - everyone's experiences on this forum seem to indicate that to be the case. I'm only getting around 16mpg average out of my 3.4 Pre-Runner.

    I got the OEM replacement Denso one from Rock Auto. It was under 100 bucks, whereas the same part was anywhere from 160-180 anywhere else I looked.

    Denso Part Number 2349001
    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=870733
     
  5. Jun 22, 2012 at 12:55 PM
    #5
    wrmathis

    wrmathis Dark Lord of the Sith

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  6. Jun 22, 2012 at 12:56 PM
    #6
    pippen

    pippen that was'nt a vitamin!!

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    Yea thats what I found, people keep saying the universal one by Bosche sometimes don't work well with the 5VZ-FE engine, the universal one is $70 but you have to run and hookup the wires yourself. I think I'll go with the OEM for now :)
     
  7. Jun 22, 2012 at 1:23 PM
    #7
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    yes its a giant pain in the ass... but years ago, that was all you could get....
    anyway got mine at rockauto, great price
     
  8. Jun 24, 2012 at 9:01 PM
    #8
    GT5050

    GT5050 [OP] Active Member

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    Changed it today - only changed the one that was throwing the code though, the pre-cat one as I didn't have both to change. Anyway, left the negative cable off of the battery while I changed it, once I put the new one in and started it, no CEL. Truck also seems to have a more steady idle now. Real easy swap, the biggest pain was unplugging the old one.
     
  9. Jun 25, 2012 at 5:03 PM
    #9
    Ga tacoguy

    Ga tacoguy Well-Known Member

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    :) Good Job. Doing your own repairs can save you some money. Your CEL code is still in your computer, but it should not turn on your CEL light. When you remove the negative cable, you reset the light, but the computer memory keep the code in the computer till you have the computer read by a code reader. There is nothing wrong with going around like this, but remember that a mechanic may ask about the code when they read your computer in the future. When you get a chance, you may want someone to remove the code from the computer if you can.
     
  10. Jan 25, 2014 at 1:22 PM
    #10
    TIPICOTACO

    TIPICOTACO Well-Known Member

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    Is there really a difference in the sensors for A/T vs M/T ???


    why is the A/T more expensive??
     
  11. Jan 27, 2014 at 5:31 AM
    #11
    TIPICOTACO

    TIPICOTACO Well-Known Member

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    nothing guys ??


    I accidentally ordered the A/F sensor for a manual trans and don't wanna have to deal with returning it and getting the "right" one.


    Is it possible to use an A/f sensor for a manual on an auto trans? Are the sensors themselves the same, just a diff PN?? Are they calibrated differently some how?


    thanks
     
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