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Changing UCA's question

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 1stacoma, Sep 28, 2012.

  1. Sep 28, 2012 at 11:30 AM
    #1
    1stacoma

    1stacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's front and rear, front 2.5" rear 2" AAL, 18% tint front and rear, color matched grill. SCS wheels 275/70/17 BFG AT KO's. DTRL toggle switch.
    I'm doing my LR UCA swap tonight and tomorrow. I need to know how to separate the ball-joint shaft from the spindle? I would prefer not to use a fork and tear up the boot. I called to AutoZone but they said all they had was the pickle fork. I know there is a tool that pushes the shaft up through the spindle but I cant think of the name of it. Or if any one has an idea please speak up.​

    Also any pitfalls I should look out for while doing this.​


     
  2. Sep 28, 2012 at 11:34 AM
    #2
    blakes09

    blakes09 Toyota Tech..when im not Fishing

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    hammer
     
  3. Sep 28, 2012 at 11:35 AM
    #3
    himmie

    himmie Well-Known Member

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    Visit the Build.
    Hammer.
     
  4. Sep 28, 2012 at 11:35 AM
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    chadderkdawg

    chadderkdawg Don't ask questions you don't want the answer to..

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  5. Sep 28, 2012 at 11:54 AM
    #5
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    loosen nut but don't remove
    hammer on the spindle
    if that doesn't work

    remove nut
    put nut on upside down and level with BJ bolt
    tap upwards
     
  6. Sep 28, 2012 at 12:46 PM
    #6
    TruKnight

    TruKnight Well-Known Member

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    read build thread
    I put in mine 2 days ago, just hammer it carefully it should come right off.

    Also any pitfalls I should look out for while doing this. YES

    BE SURE to hold onto the spindle while your doing it tho, or it could mess up the abs data cable thats attached to it if it falls freely after you seperate the stock uca. You need to unbolt the bracket on the uca that is holding it and then carefully pry the cable out of the bracket so you dont let it bend sharply while your doing the swap, cause it will be under some tension.

    getting the long bolt out was the ruff part tho.
     
  7. Sep 28, 2012 at 12:47 PM
    #7
    GP3

    GP3 Well-Known Member

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    Front: stock suspension, 12" wide fiberglass fenders Rear: stock suspension, 10" wide fiberglass fenders

    Ask for this: Pitman arm puller.

    They have it for rent.
     
  8. Sep 29, 2012 at 10:37 AM
    #8
    1stacoma

    1stacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's front and rear, front 2.5" rear 2" AAL, 18% tint front and rear, color matched grill. SCS wheels 275/70/17 BFG AT KO's. DTRL toggle switch.
    Thanks for all the replies this is actually what ended up working the best- hitting the spindle with a hammer. Leaving the nut on is key. ;)

    The only thing was the amount I had to bend on the passenger side inner fender. I really had to bend it a significant amount it looked like $h!t especially knowing my truck hasn't even had its first oil change. Either way it wasn't hard it did take me about 3 or 4 hours doing it by my self in my garage.
     
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