cheap welder, worth it?

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Is it worth getting a cheap welder?
Looking at this one from HFT

-light home use
-thin metal
-small, light, no need for gas, portable and less bulky to store
-works even on dirty metal
-can plug into regular wall outlet

was messing with exhaust and stud broke. So far have been unable to get it out, need to fix the leak.
I think welding a nut on would work. Give something strong to grab onto, and add heat in the process.

I tried an extractor socket but it slips when applying real torque.

 

2nd Gen specific welder?

Uhm, I've put my hands on HF welders and they do what they're supposed to.

With that said, I'd opt to spend a little more with a better warranty and more versatility IE able to use gas.

You can use flux on any MIG welder, but you can't use solid core on a flux welder.

Also, if dirty metal is something you're often doing you can opt for a stick welder.

 

There's an upgrade you can do with these where you change them from being an AC welder to a DC welder which involves a rectifier and a capacitor. Fairly straight forward build. It made this cheap welder WAY better. Much cleaner with less splatter.

 

Maybe there’s something but I’ve never seen a gas less flux core mig make a good solid weld.

If you can’t afford a good quality machine, you can rent one for the one task.

If you really want to own one, like kwikvette said, get something more versatile.

 

I got an Eastwood 180 for $550 last year during a Father’s Day sale to replace my Hobart 140 that I couldn’t fix anymore. Obviously you’d need to buy a bottle if you didn’t want to use flux core, but it works amazingly well.

 

Then someone wasn’t doing something right



https://dezertrangers.com/forum_/in...flux-core-yet-less-ghetto-than-before.239732/

 

Ok, yeah, that’s pretty good. Not the horrible spatter mess I’ve seen guys call a weld.

 

Easy to weld with flux

Dual shield is even nicer

My favorite though is spray arc

 

I mean. I feel like most mechanic shops with at least one welder to remove broken studs and whatnot, use a cheap Flux. As did a co-worker of mine.
It's a lot more sensible to pay $200 for a small tool that can do that, than $1000+ for a decent power MIG, argon CO2 bottle, and cart, with high voltage plug and no outlet of that to plug into.

I'll see if I can find a place that can weld a nut on. But I already know how it's gonna go. Most places are gonna be like:
"oh noooo, the truck is on the ground with only like 13" clearance or more driven up rhino ramps and the ground is dirty ewwww, and it's probably really hard to access even though the broken stud is right there in front of you"

vs simply plugging in flux core, getting on the ground, welding a nut on, and moving on

 

Going back to the original problem. There’s this type of extractor.

$29 IRWIN Bolt Extractor Set, 5-Piece (394001)

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ?crid=2DVNI7UR0NU6N&keywords=Irwin%2Bstud%2Bextractor&qid=1691978867&sprefix=irwin%2Bstud%2Bextractor%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-17&th=1

A trick I’ll do is get whatever extractor I’m using in place. Get my ratchet on it & tie the handle with one of these.

$8 Nite Ize NCJ-25-2R3 CamJam Tie Down Rope Tightener with Carabiner Clip, 2-pack With Cord, Black, 2 Count

https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-NCJ-25-2R3-Tightener-Mechanism/dp/B08582L8BF?crid=1PHCU0HIV92D4&keywords=cam+jam+cord+tighteners&qid=1691979222&sprefix=Cam+jam%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-2

Then pull the string to put tension on it. Then go do something else leaving it tight. Go back and see if I can make it tighter. Sometimes when I go back, it popped loose & simply unscrewed. But honestly, the last time I did this, it was a M16 bolt broken off flush. The extractor broke off & I ended up having to replace the piece.

If you have enough sticking out, you can try a pipe wrench.

 

I have this welder. My 12-yr son has done some competent welding with it after taking a MIG welding course. We are building a go-cart. The welder is very picky about having a good ground. Use a flap disc in a grinder to clean the metal you are welding and for the ground and you'll be fine.

 

There's multiple people here on TW that rock the Titanium 170 which is 2 models up the chain, and have built some serious stuff with them. Still pretty affordable, but gets you a much better unit.

 

That welder is a keeper even if you upgrade down the road. Too handy to not have around.

 

Same welder I have. With anti-spatter spray I've laid some impressive beads with solid penetration. Go for it

 

Been using this for random projects. Does quiet well, never skips a beat and can run quite hot even off of 110v. Its auto set works great to control current/wirespeed properly with one easy knob.

Key with any flux, good wire (I use forney), tip gell, anti splatter spray and most of all - surface prep

Flameweld MIG Welder Machine - MIG145FX 145Amps Gasless Flux Core MIG Welder with IGBT Inverter, 110/220V Dual Voltage Welding Machine

https://www.amazon.com/Flameweld-MIG-Welder-Machine-MIG145FX/dp/B0B6ZPFZ6G?crid=H5PAQGADA8FI&keywords=flameweld+flux+welder&qid=1691937106&sprefix=flameweld+flux+welde%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3

this is the same as the hynade 140 that has great reviews - even better AND CHEAPER than the HF one.

That flameweld linked above has a 15$ coupon making it 115+tax , also ITS TINY!

Is it or anything in the sub 200$ pricepoint the best no. Will it do perfect pretty welds, no. But it will do proper welds with good penetration if you do your part.

Only thing I have done to the lil flameweld/hynade is grab some flux tip protectors from HF for better viewing

 

I forgot they even make mobile trail ones but likely cost more. That run off the truck somehow.

may try this thank you.
One problem I’m seeing is the stud broke where it’s smooth. So my “stud socket” easily slips with enough torque.
Was thinking to try wrapping a sleeve of emery cloth around the stud then slide the socket on so it has a bit more friction to grab. Rather than just smooth shaft.

 

Are you referring to another unit because this welder is already DC

 

These are already DC, it's the older 90A black ones that are AC. I converted one years ago, added BIG capacitors, and a bigger cooling fan...I would never trust it for a heavy bolt/stud extraction.

 

This looks like a stack of tacks...

 

Do yourself a favour and get a gas MIG setup. My Eastwood MIG 140 with an 80cuf gas bottle and cart was only $800 all in. Flux is ok for what it is, but unless you know what you're doing it's a mess.