Check Engine Light:(

So I decided to get my codes scanned at AutoZone. They came up with 3 codes 1 regarding my MAF and another regarding my IAT, and another regarding something with a evaporative pump. ( sorry I can't remember the codes). Anyway I got a chance last weekend to take sometime and try and solve those codes. I disassembled my intake from the air box to the throttle body and I cleaned all of it out with CRC throttle body cleaner and I also cleaned my MAF with the crc MAF cleaner. Finally I also changed my fuel filter. I reset the ECU and now I'm getting a P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction code. The guy at AutoZone said that it has something to do with my EGR valve. Anyway I'm just curious if you guys have any idea on what it could be.

 

You could try and clean the EGR, They get pretty dirty. Use that CRC to clean it and some gun cleaner brushes.

 

where is it located?
at least the part I should try cleaning
Also ive been reading that it might have something to do with the air pump

 

EGR is located at the back of the engine http://www.yotatech.com/f2/1999-3rz-fe-2-7-l-whats-best-way-remove-egr-egr-pipe-209790/

 

I would go back and have that code re-checked. The 99 Tacoma does not have a P0410 code on its list of possible codes. The 400 series codes for your Tacoma are:
P0401
P0402
P0420
P0430
P0440
P0441
P0446
P0450
P0451

Those are the only P codes in the 400 range for your Tacoma. Also, we do not HAVE a Secondary Air Injection System in the 1st gen.

 

So my Ultragauge came in and I got the real code which ended up being a P0401. So I added vacuum to the Valve to see if anything would happen being that it is a P0401 code when i apply vacuum the car shouldnt stumble because the valve isnt opening, but when I applied Vacuum the engine stumbled and died which tells me that the valve is working right. What should I look at next?

 

My P0401 code was solved by removing, cleaning, replacing the EGR temp sensor (very close to the EGR valve).

 

what does it look like? can i just use MAF cleaner?

 

Looks like any other temp sensor (sorta like a spark plug without the negative prong and with a permanently attached wire ).

You'll need a sensor-removing socket. MAF cleaner is just for sensitive sensors like MAF. I physically scraped the black buildup with a knife, and followed up by soaking with TB cleaner.

 

Well i guess ill try this. Since I found out the Valve is working I decided to check the vacuum lines today and I didn't notice any clogged ones. I also looked at the filter in the modulator and it looked pretty dirty. I'm kind of out of ideas.

 

Does anyone know what size socket I need to try to get the egr temp sensor out?

 

Its a 14mm. On mine, I had to remove the PCV hose from the intake to get to it.

Piece of cake with the right tool. What I used was a 14mm brake-line wrench (the type one uses to remove hard brake lines from calipers and wheel cylinders). Worked perfect.

 

Perfect I will try this out this weekend! Hopefully this is the problem I'm sick of seeing that check engine light. Also I cleaned the Throttle body right before I got the P0401 code do you think that could have anything to do with it? did I maybe clog some of the passages?

 

It could have triggered it, if it caused a bunch of crud to accumulate on the sensor.

If this does not solve the problem, then it could be the EGR modulator, or EGR VSV.

 

We'll i tried to remove it with some of the flare nut wrenches/brake line wrenches and I still couldn't get to it because the wrench wouldn't fit in the area, the egr valve was in the way. So now I'm out of ideas. And my vacuum lines are starting to get ripped when from trying to remove them.

 

Maybe the will help. This is what I had to do. See attached photos.

This just shows the EGR area:


This is the same view with 2 annoying hoses dettached:


Same view with wrench fully engaged with sensor:


I also soaked the sensor thread area with PB Blaster and let it soak for a few hours before I put any force on the wrench. Be sure to push the top of the wrench toward the firewall (lefty loosy). I know there is not much arc there for the wrench, but once it 'broke free', I could unscrew it with my fingers (after disconnecting the pig-tail of course).

The evap hose split a bit at the end, but its still holds a vacuum. I may have to replace that eventually. Those vacuum lines of mine are likely original (15 years old), so I would expect to have to replace them (picknpull trip?). Its all part of the process of wrenching on old vehicles. Sometimes electrical tape is enough to prevent a vacuum leak. Those pre-bent larger vacuum lines can be pricey.

Good Luck