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Check Engine Light:(

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CRiz, Jan 14, 2014.

  1. Jan 14, 2014 at 7:59 AM
    #1
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I decided to get my codes scanned at AutoZone. They came up with 3 codes 1 regarding my MAF and another regarding my IAT, and another regarding something with a evaporative pump. ( sorry I can't remember the codes). Anyway I got a chance last weekend to take sometime and try and solve those codes. I disassembled my intake from the air box to the throttle body and I cleaned all of it out with CRC throttle body cleaner and I also cleaned my MAF with the crc MAF cleaner. Finally I also changed my fuel filter. I reset the ECU and now I'm getting a P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction code. The guy at AutoZone said that it has something to do with my EGR valve. Anyway I'm just curious if you guys have any idea on what it could be.
     
  2. Jan 14, 2014 at 8:06 AM
    #2
    se7enine

    se7enine Well-Known Member

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    K&N intake TG Air Filter, Toytec Bilstein 5100's, Chevy Leafs.
    You could try and clean the EGR, They get pretty dirty. Use that CRC to clean it and some gun cleaner brushes.
     
  3. Jan 14, 2014 at 8:44 AM
    #3
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    where is it located?
    at least the part I should try cleaning
    Also ive been reading that it might have something to do with the air pump
     
  4. Jan 14, 2014 at 9:07 AM
    #4
    se7enine

    se7enine Well-Known Member

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  5. Jan 14, 2014 at 9:27 AM
    #5
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    1997 Tacoma 4X4 AKA "Blue Beast"
    Multi-point tow hooks, new bored 2.7L engine, custom paint. 3 inch adjustable Fabtech front coils, 2.5 inch rear AAL. Front Aussie locker. LED bed lights. Full LED conversion interior and exterior. Relentless Fabrication front and rear bumpers. 4X4innovation sliders. BAMF bed rack. CVT rooftop tent.
    I would go back and have that code re-checked. The 99 Tacoma does not have a P0410 code on its list of possible codes. The 400 series codes for your Tacoma are:
    P0401
    P0402
    P0420
    P0430
    P0440
    P0441
    P0446
    P0450
    P0451

    Those are the only P codes in the 400 range for your Tacoma. Also, we do not HAVE a Secondary Air Injection System in the 1st gen.
     
  6. Jan 19, 2014 at 11:30 AM
    #6
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So my Ultragauge came in and I got the real code which ended up being a P0401. So I added vacuum to the Valve to see if anything would happen being that it is a P0401 code when i apply vacuum the car shouldnt stumble because the valve isnt opening, but when I applied Vacuum the engine stumbled and died which tells me that the valve is working right. What should I look at next?
     
  7. Jan 19, 2014 at 12:14 PM
    #7
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    My P0401 code was solved by removing, cleaning, replacing the EGR temp sensor (very close to the EGR valve).
     
  8. Jan 19, 2014 at 1:29 PM
    #8
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    what does it look like? can i just use MAF cleaner?
     
  9. Jan 20, 2014 at 5:06 PM
    #9
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like any other temp sensor (sorta like a spark plug without the negative prong and with a permanently attached wire ).

    You'll need a sensor-removing socket. MAF cleaner is just for sensitive sensors like MAF. I physically scraped the black buildup with a knife, and followed up by soaking with TB cleaner.
     
  10. Jan 20, 2014 at 8:15 PM
    #10
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well i guess ill try this. Since I found out the Valve is working I decided to check the vacuum lines today and I didn't notice any clogged ones. I also looked at the filter in the modulator and it looked pretty dirty. I'm kind of out of ideas.
     
  11. Jan 27, 2014 at 2:46 PM
    #11
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know what size socket I need to try to get the egr temp sensor out?
     
  12. Jan 28, 2014 at 7:27 AM
    #12
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Its a 14mm. On mine, I had to remove the PCV hose from the intake to get to it.

    Piece of cake with the right tool. What I used was a 14mm brake-line wrench (the type one uses to remove hard brake lines from calipers and wheel cylinders). Worked perfect.
     
  13. Jan 28, 2014 at 7:53 AM
    #13
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Perfect I will try this out this weekend! Hopefully this is the problem I'm sick of seeing that check engine light. Also I cleaned the Throttle body right before I got the P0401 code do you think that could have anything to do with it? did I maybe clog some of the passages?
     
  14. Jan 28, 2014 at 8:40 AM
    #14
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    It could have triggered it, if it caused a bunch of crud to accumulate on the sensor.

    If this does not solve the problem, then it could be the EGR modulator, or EGR VSV.
     
  15. Feb 1, 2014 at 11:42 AM
    #15
    CRiz

    CRiz [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We'll i tried to remove it with some of the flare nut wrenches/brake line wrenches and I still couldn't get to it because the wrench wouldn't fit in the area, the egr valve was in the way. So now I'm out of ideas. And my vacuum lines are starting to get ripped when from trying to remove them.
     
  16. Feb 2, 2014 at 9:13 AM
    #16
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe the will help. This is what I had to do. See attached photos.

    This just shows the EGR area:
    [​IMG]

    This is the same view with 2 annoying hoses dettached:
    [​IMG]

    Same view with wrench fully engaged with sensor:
    [​IMG]

    I also soaked the sensor thread area with PB Blaster and let it soak for a few hours before I put any force on the wrench. Be sure to push the top of the wrench toward the firewall (lefty loosy). I know there is not much arc there for the wrench, but once it 'broke free', I could unscrew it with my fingers (after disconnecting the pig-tail of course).

    The evap hose split a bit at the end, but its still holds a vacuum. I may have to replace that eventually. Those vacuum lines of mine are likely original (15 years old), so I would expect to have to replace them (picknpull trip?). Its all part of the process of wrenching on old vehicles. Sometimes electrical tape is enough to prevent a vacuum leak. Those pre-bent larger vacuum lines can be pricey.

    Good Luck
     
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