Check Your 3.5l Coolant Pipe!

JFC so this is now a routine maintenance thing we get to deal with? Is this fixed in the 4th gen?

 

did they document it as such? I’m
Hearing dealers are trying to not cover this as easily as yours have

 

I assume 4th gen does not have one since only 4Cyl.
I also assume 4th gen will get it's fair share of common issues. Time will tell.

 

I had no issue at all. There was no hesitation in them covering it.

 

first I have herd of "updated part"
had mine replaced and that was not mentioned but maybe so.
at any rate mating a coolant plastic part to steel engine block with a O ring is stupid.
has anyone ever seen a water pump use a O ring, should be flat gaskets with sealer.
next will be plastic water pumps, LOL
just my opinion.

 

Is that the famous coolant crossover behind the block?
My 2016 had it and the dealer removed the transmission to get at it!

 

did they charge you for that?

 

I had 2 months left on 8 year extended warranty, so no charge. would have been $1600.
BTW, thanks to this forum after seeing many posts about it i crawled under the passenger side and shined a light up and bingo, pink corrosion.

 

Damn. That sucks. BTW, wouldn’t it be easier to access it via the transmission?

This seems to be an easier approach than removing the intake manifold. I could be wrong.

 

first i have herd of doing it removing the intake manifold.
2 ways i have read about is removing the tarnny or removing the engine.

 

He had 2wd so that's a no Brainer to do it from the bottom. 4wd has a lot more to take out. There is very little DIY information. I've only seen DIY taking the trans out so far.

As far as dealers I heard from the top, bottom and even taking the cab off. Those are just what people have reported their dealer did so there's no details on exactly how it was done.

From the top sounds easy but it's a bitch to work back there from the top. They must be laying on top of the motor. From pictures I've seen with the manifold off it looks like you still have to take out the direct injection fuel rails but I have yet to hear if that is the case or not.

There's also a little difference at the back of the head between vacuum and electric brake booster motors.

I've been trying to decide for over a year now. I have 171k miles and I saw the pink scab at 145k miles. No coolant lose since I found out and no signs of it running down the back when it happened. I have the tools and the place to do it and I've taken just about everything in a car apart before but I'm just too fucking tired of fixing shit.

I'm letting it ride. It ain't broke yet as far as I'm concerned. I'm in denial lol.

 

I hear ya! Seems to have not gotten worse. Hopefully it doesn’t worsen.

 

Yep, this was issue on my old 4runner too. Literally was drooling coolant. Hopefully it wont happen with my Taco

 

Agree, i forgot about that in my posts here, mine is a 2WD.

 

I feel ya. I'm of the same thought at the moment. I still need to pull my plenum/intake and fuel rails so I can R&R the mouse chewed anti-knock sensor wiring harness. No codes yet so I'm holding off.

 

Yeah dealers do not look for it when servicing the truck. Good move and this place has probably saved many tacos.

 

Has anyone experience the failure of the thermostat housing up front (I think that is what it is)? It easier to replace but still? What about radiator necks and whatever else is there made out of plastic?

I did now know there was the plastic connector in the back, but I have been paying close attention to the thermostat housing in the front that does not look like it will last. Given the fact that these items fail, I would consider the radiator/expansion tank or anything else that has plastic in it as a maintenance item. I wonder if there is plastic pipe going along the block...

Someone should make metal replacement parts for this. Older BMW's had these issues and 60K mile preventative cooling system replacement was the solution... For the most part it was easier to do than on Tacomas, had better access.

 

I did mine at 58K by removing the upper intake manifold or what is called the "intake surge tank". I did not disturb the injectors or fuel rails. What made it easier was a topside creeper. I also loosened up the front exhaust pipes and removed the trans mount bolts at the crossmember and stuck a jack under the tranny and jacked up the rear of the tranny about an inch which gave me more room to get my hands in there. Took me about 6 hours taking my time. Also changed my plugs while I had it apart.

 

That plastic housing that the wiring looms run through at the rear of the engine, looks like a real PITA to negotiate.

 

It is. I was able to loosen it up a little to get more room.