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Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 12TRDTacoma, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Dec 12, 2016 at 8:29 AM
    #1241
    MilesToEmpty

    MilesToEmpty Well-Known Member

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    Wheelers Progressive AAL, Firestone RideRite airbags.
    In theory would this fix the vibration I get at 20mph accelerating and decelerating?
     
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  2. Dec 12, 2016 at 9:33 AM
    #1242
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    It may or may not. Sorry.....not a great answer. But if the problem is your CB, then it probably would fix it.
     
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  3. Dec 12, 2016 at 9:40 AM
    #1243
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Torque converter? Did you get an aftermarket stall converter?

    Highly likely it would if your u joints are known good.
     
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  4. Dec 12, 2016 at 9:41 AM
    #1244
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    Angles could be off too though. :anonymous:
     
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  5. Dec 12, 2016 at 11:23 AM
    #1245
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Yeah I mean that is true if he has made any sort of weird mods. If the angles were off though he would experience it at other speeds and not just 20 mph.
     
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  6. Dec 12, 2016 at 11:27 AM
    #1246
    MilesToEmpty

    MilesToEmpty Well-Known Member

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    Wheelers Progressive AAL, Firestone RideRite airbags.
    Only mod that I have is the Wheelers progressive AAL, minus the factory Overload. So it should be close to what it is factory.
     
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  7. Dec 12, 2016 at 11:27 AM
    #1247
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
     
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  8. Dec 12, 2016 at 11:38 AM
    #1248
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Carrier bearing, given that your u joints are in good shape.
     
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  9. Dec 12, 2016 at 11:50 AM
    #1249
    RCOTaco

    RCOTaco Long Time Lurker

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    Hamlet, NC
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    Bilstein 5100s on Stock Coils, Light Racing UCA's, Pro Comp Wheels, 265/75 Baja MTZ's, Cobra 18 WXST, 4' Firestik, UWS Toolbox
    I got mine installed, and it went well for the most part. Threw the retaining nut in the milling machine and knocked the shoulder off of it since I didn't want that much of it hanging in limbo. I then put red Loctite on it upon reassembly.

    Couple Observations for those doing this in the future:
    - If the yoke doesn't seem like it wants to come off, keep trying. I had to work with it for about 3 hours, afraid that I was gonna crack it. I tried heat, penetrating oil, etc. and all it needed was just a bit more force. Wound up getting it off with the impact wrench and a 2/3 jaw gear puller from Oreilly's.
    - I didn't put either of the dust shields back on, hopefully that won't bite me in the rear at the price of bearing longevity.
    - I used the original u-joint that was there, but wound up messing up one of the nylon washers that sit in the bottom of the bearing cap by mashing the needle bearings into the material when they fell down in the cap unexpectedly. IF THE U-JOINT DOESN'T GO TOGETHER RELATIVELY EASY, PULL IT APART AND DOUBLE CHECK THE NEEDLES POSITION. I'll be replacing all 3 u-joints shortly since one of the seals is cracked on the forward-most joint and I messed up that washer in the middle joint.
    - Upon reassembly, I had vibrations at nearly every speed. I pulled the middle overload out of my dakars, as well as the 3 degree shims and things are MUCH better. I'm gonna sit down and right up a MatLab program to try to determine what height the bearing needs to be at for angular acceleration cancellation.
    - I installed my bearing opposite of OP. When you look at how the bearing is designed, the most material is along the flat side, which is where the constant weight of the DS would be located in the Ford application. I wanted to keep it that way when I installed it.
    - Just a word of wisdom. Mystik High Temp #2 grease is what Spicer has tested and approved for u-joints. It's cheap and available at Oreilly's. Looking at the specs it has great sling-out resistance and a high load rating. That said, clean grease is more important than type of grease, so ymmv.

    I still have a vibration at 18 mph and a minor high-speed vibration. I'll replace the u-joints before I mess with the height of the bearing.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2016
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  10. Dec 12, 2016 at 12:31 PM
    #1250
    MilesToEmpty

    MilesToEmpty Well-Known Member

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    Wheelers Progressive AAL, Firestone RideRite airbags.
    Is it normal to have to replace the carrier bearing at 30k miles?
     
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  11. Dec 12, 2016 at 12:59 PM
    #1251
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The OE one? Yes. It's garbage.
     
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  12. Dec 12, 2016 at 2:38 PM
    #1252
    MilesToEmpty

    MilesToEmpty Well-Known Member

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    This a direct fit for DCSB? I know napa is fussing it wont fit lol.

    I cant figure how to order the iedls one... link doesnt seem to work.
     
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  13. Dec 12, 2016 at 4:43 PM
    #1253
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    No, just a reman'd. Had some noises I didnt like and I think it was the Torrington bearing in the TC going out. New one solved that.
     
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  14. Dec 12, 2016 at 4:51 PM
    #1254
    GDT

    GDT Well-Known Member

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    I called and asked about the group buy pricing / discount code. The guy said they aren't doing it anymore and that if we want to do a group buy order it'll be a minimum of 40 people. Dang
     
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  15. Dec 12, 2016 at 5:13 PM
    #1255
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Boosted
    Good to know. I'll update the title again. I like how they just do it without announcing it or letting me know at least.
     
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  16. Dec 14, 2016 at 7:17 AM
    #1256
    jesseunvoas

    jesseunvoas Well-Known Member

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    I know the double cab long box will work can't answer if it will fit your truck
     
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  17. Jan 6, 2017 at 5:48 PM
    #1257
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Well I finally got around to taking the driveshaft out again to replace my other 2 u joints and rotate the front section of the rear driveshaft 180* to make the driveshaft back to how it was supposed to be/balanced.

    Now have way less vibes using some I think 2.75 or 3" spacers in order to make the shaft pretty close to a stright line. Not perfect or ideal, but it's good enough for now. Happy until I can get a one piece or some other option.
     
  18. Feb 5, 2017 at 8:28 PM
    #1258
    YotaDriver631

    YotaDriver631 Well-Known Member

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    Will this group buy open again?
     
  19. Feb 26, 2017 at 11:50 AM
    #1259
    stevotivo12

    stevotivo12 Well-Known Member

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    x2^ Would love to get one of these for my DCSB '16 TRD sport if possible.
     
  20. Mar 6, 2017 at 8:50 PM
    #1260
    Rakso

    Rakso CeRaTi

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    How much is this regular price?
     
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