Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

i'm about to replace my carrier bearing. anyone have a part number on this or they yellow one? will either of these be better than the original spicer/dana bearing?

 

The part # is in post #1

 

Kinda late but.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/211590-1X/10002/-1

 

Does the yellow one raise the shaft joint at all? In other words I have an issue where I think the CB needs to be a smidge higher. The angles are almost perfect but not quite. I have slight take off shudder and that’s it.

 

Have you tried just changing you current carrier bearing? That's the only shuddering that I had and its gone after replacing the CB.

 

If you have only slight shudder I wouldn’t do this mod. The poly is better than the factory rubber, but you will have major driveline angle reengineering that you’ll have to do with this bearing (unless you have like a 6” lift). I agree, just replace the factory bearing if you only have slight shudder. I wish Inland Empire would make a Tacoma specific poly bearing

 

Is it easy to change the factory CB? I’m shade tree at best.

 

Yes it is easy, but you will need a puller to remove the yoke and bearing (Harbor Freight). Use a marker or paint pen to mark every thing before you remove it so to maintain the balance of the shaft. Also consider having replacement u-joints on hand as you may find the old ones worn out when you pull it apart. I had luck removing the center u-joint with a big c-clamp and the appropriate sized socket. Red loctite the nut back on that holds the center yoke on reassembly. Use blue loctite on the bolts that hold the shaft onto the truck. Oh, and grease the u-joints when your done.

 

hmm

 

To add to this, the ujoints are fairly cheap anyways so I just replaced mine while I had it out. The puller for the CB can be renting as well as a ujoint removal tool or if you have a large vice the socket method works too. At least with the rental tools you aren't out of any money. The only thing I will say though about the process is getting the correct torque on the yoke bolt is a pita so I viced the yoke itself NOT the driveshaft. That's a big no no.

 

Someone else said to flip the CB over 180 degrees. Is it safe to do that?

 

Yes. I flipped mine and added a 1/4" washer and cured my trucks' vibes. When it wears out I'll likely replace with with the iedls poly bearing and take careful measurements to get it where it sits now.

 

Yes it is. The way the factory bearing is made it can go either way, but will provide a slightly different angle. So break out the angle gauge, look up the many threads on this subject and position it as needed

 

I took the 1/4” washer out bc it had made mine worse. I only have a 1” lift front and back.

 

It's not a great idea to flip the factory CB because the drain holes are only on the factory bottom end of it. I understand the idea behind it but if it's to the point where this would "solve" your vibes then you should consider just replacing it.

 

Interesting. I installed an aftermarket OEM style on mine (as I was getting a lot of movement in the rubber), and it had identical drain holes on both sides.

 

@inesshell

 

@desertjunkie760

 

Ok from what I gather after reading pages and pages on this thread. Is that for a DCSB you have to set up the CB “flipped” , make spacers , fab a top plate and use longer bolts correct ? I have the newer Dakar leaf springs (96R) that give 2.75” of lift. Or should I just go ahead and install the “regular” way with just the top retaining plate ?
Also from the looks of the spicer CB above in the pic (black rubber ) it might be a happy medium between the slop ass factory one and the poly one (yellow) not to mention it’s only $27 vs. $125 might be worth a shot. TIA

 

I ordered the new spicer ( black rubber ) ford CB. Install still follows same as the poly one correct on a DCSB ?