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Clutch Issue?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Madjik_Man, May 15, 2013.

  1. May 18, 2013 at 2:14 PM
    #41
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    I have done all the hi-pro mods for a life time, since I got this truck at a great price, I will be happy with showroom new.
    ++++++ on what blackdawg said on bleeding the system, I had a friend help me and I think I spent 20 or 25 mins to make sure all the air was out. I know it might feel right fast, but after you keep pushing the clutch in, you can still get a few air bubbles out, it takes a little work to get all the air out of the system, it surprised me.
     
  2. May 18, 2013 at 2:20 PM
    #42
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    GOOD luck! Read the update
     
  3. May 18, 2013 at 2:37 PM
    #43
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    Another easy check-push the clutch pedal in SLOWLY--see if the slave reacts. If nothing moves--hydrolics are not functioning.
     
  4. May 18, 2013 at 2:40 PM
    #44
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    The rod was pushing out and pulling back in much nicer than the old slave.
     
  5. May 18, 2013 at 2:47 PM
    #45
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    Was the rod moving when the issue returned?
     
  6. May 18, 2013 at 2:57 PM
    #46
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yes. But I couldn't tell you, accurately, if it was the same as when the issue was temporarily gone.
     
  7. May 18, 2013 at 3:02 PM
    #47
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    Added note--IF IF IF you are giong to pull the tranny-replace the clutch and associated components.(plate bearing ect.)
    As long as you have it apart- change components.
    Only because it is a big job and you do not want to do it again.
    If pulling the trany is easy and you have access -you can always do it in the future.
    I replaced my tranny w/a rebuilt one-(in my driveway-by myself)
    IT WAS BITCH-Did the cluch when it was apart.
    (The trany syncros were worn out).
    Just my two cents.
     
  8. May 18, 2013 at 3:08 PM
    #48
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    If the slave IS MOVING (when you push the pedal slowly)
    about 3/4 to 1"-there might be an issue inside the tranny.
    If it is just moving a LITTLE--Hydrolic problem.
     
  9. May 18, 2013 at 3:11 PM
    #49
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I don't even want to think about that yet.

    Hoping the master cylinder takes care of the issue.
     
  10. May 18, 2013 at 3:33 PM
    #50
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    MEE TOOOO.
    Keep it simple-first thing first.
     
  11. May 19, 2013 at 4:46 PM
    #51
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    The new master cylinder fixed the issue. The only issue was I didnt exactly measure how far the old clevis was up the shaft/rod before putting the new one in. So it seems that the engaged point is way up on the pedal motion.

    My friend checked it out and said that there is enough play at the top before the pressure plate engages so he's fine with it.

    It just feels really different to me. I might bring it into his shop and have them adjust it for $15
     
  12. May 20, 2013 at 6:11 AM
    #52
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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  13. May 20, 2013 at 6:43 AM
    #53
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    lol "distractions" by girlfriend always take precedent :eek:

    Good write up... could have used this knowledge: "When replacing the master cylinder with a new unit, align the two on a bench and roughly adjust the free play length to approximately equal length. This will make the final adjustment easier."

    I honestly might take the new one out and do just this... at my friend's shop, then have them bench bleed it. He said he'd only charge $20 or $30 to do so.
     
  14. May 20, 2013 at 12:30 PM
    #54
    newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    2" lift AAL and Bilstiens-front-rear,front diff drop. main drive drop
    Now both the master and slave are replaced-Good job!
    It might need a little adjustment after you break it in.
    Should be simple. Now you have spares--when you think the new ones are getting ready to wear out--get the rebuild kit-and repair the old ones.
    Last look --both rebuild kits are less than 50.
    They are very easy to fix. All you need is a "C" clip removal tool.
    Nice to see you had an easy repair-and NOT a tranny problem.
    Now you are an EXPERT and can help another TW member.
     
  15. May 20, 2013 at 1:02 PM
    #55
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Yeah, it truly is great how easy these types of repairs are. Once I got that facking clevis through the firewall, it was easy-peasy.

    I am going to take a part the old master and slave just to see what the seals looked like, etc...
     
  16. May 22, 2013 at 5:42 PM
    #56
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Well now when I start it first thing, after the truck sits over night, the clutch pedal feels normal and the "catch point" is in the middle of the release. They way it's always been.

    But after 3 or 4 miles the pedal goes back to feeling super hard to press in (as well as tons of pressure pushing back on my foot) and the "catch point" is all the way at the top of the pedal.

    I also checked the reservoir on my master cylinder and the fluid level has dropped.

    FML
     
  17. May 28, 2013 at 10:29 AM
    #57
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man [OP] The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Adjusted the clevis on the master cylinder rod.

    Feels much better now. A little "squishy" but far better than what it was. And it's engaging in gear at a normal position, IMO... not a cm or two from the top.

    Spoke to the owner of the shop and he says I should leave it overnight with them so they can feel how soft the pedal is in the morning. We're baffled by why there is a difference between "pressure" in the pedal in the morning vs warmed up after about 3 or 5 miles.

    As of now it looks like a full clutch job is not imminent which is good news.
     

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