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Clutch self-engages at stop sign

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Okay, Jul 5, 2015.

  1. Jul 5, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #1
    Okay

    Okay [OP] Member

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    Jun 15, 2015
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    #157480
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    Hi,

    I'm having a clutch problem and am looking for a bit of diagnostic help.

    I think most clutch problems are beyond my ability, but I would like
    to know what to expect if I take it in for service.

    This started happening in the last week or so.

    I come to a stop sign. I push the clutch in all the way and hold it while I brake
    to a stop. When I proceed to let the clutch out, engagement appears to be at the "bottom"
    of the foot travel instead of in the middle where it normally is. If I continue on, I shift through the gears and things feel fine with engagement at the normal position.

    In some cases, I have had the peddle to the floor and the clutch has self-engaged
    and the engine dies.

    It seems to be dependent on how long I hold the peddle down. I can still drive OK
    if I change my stopping procedure to: shift to neutral, brake to stop, clutch in and go.

    It does seem to help if I "pump" the peddle, maybe.

    I have replaced the clutch hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) and that did not fix the problem.
     
  2. Jul 5, 2015 at 4:27 PM
    #2
    Okay

    Okay [OP] Member

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    I crawled under the truck and put a measuring tape on the distance from a fixed point to the position of the moving bit while my lovely assistant pushed down on the clutch peddle. About 20% of the time the thing would go to full length and then fall back about halfway to resting. I think that means either my master cylinder or slave cylinder are leaking internally and unable to hold pressure against the spring.

    That happens to be something I think I can fix. Now to order new ones and get them installed.
     
  3. Jul 5, 2015 at 5:01 PM
    #3
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    That's what it sounds like. Keep in mind that a slave will leak only to the outside world and be visible while the master can leak internally and not "show".
     
  4. Jul 5, 2015 at 7:42 PM
    #4
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    Sounds like you did a good job diagnosing. I would put money on the slave cylinder because it is more exposed to the elements, but you can at least check if the master cylinder had a major failure by looking around where the pedal connects to it, is it greasy or have pooled oil.
     
  5. Jul 5, 2015 at 9:05 PM
    #5
    trx125

    trx125 Well-Known Member

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    I would just replace both and be done. They aren't that expensive to replace.
     

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