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Cold, won't shift

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by betardfoosier, Nov 4, 2010.

  1. Feb 9, 2011 at 4:16 PM
    #21
    Hoyal

    Hoyal Whiskey bent and hell bound.

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    Big tires, big lift, Lots of stuff's.
    But at 40 degrees? Never heard of such a thing. It can drop to 40 in the summer time. Seems like something else going on to me.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2011 at 4:10 PM
    #22
    TuffTruck

    TuffTruck Member

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    Hey guys a big thumbs up to those that recommended switching over to Redline MT90 for the manual transmission fluid!

    I bought my truck a couple days ago as I mentioned and little did I know it would only shift easily when it was hot. I found out this the next morning when it was about 30 outside . Well yesterday it stopped going into gear altogether unless you rev'd it above 3k and man handled the shifter!

    Last night I drained the old transmission fluid and transfer case. I filled them up with Redline MT90 which is synthetic too I might add. I also flushed my clutch master cylinder because that brake fluid was black! And a buddy suggested changing it.

    No test drive over night I let it get nice and cold in the 20's over night. This morning I warmed the truck up to operating temp and drove off. It went into every gear slick as snot! I drove the truck to a few stops I had to make some city some highway. I shifted great all day, warm, cold, and hot.

    Thanks!
     
    750ml likes this.
  3. Feb 23, 2011 at 9:49 AM
    #23
    maconhurler

    maconhurler Well-Known Member

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    It made a huge difference for me.
     
  4. Feb 23, 2011 at 10:08 AM
    #24
    vantaco

    vantaco Well-Known Member

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    always drive/shift slower to start out with when it's cold out

    also don't shifter higher than like 2500/3000 rmp for the first while

    much easier on the tranny with the thicker oil
     
  5. Mar 7, 2017 at 4:56 PM
    #25
    Trask97140

    Trask97140 New Member

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    Im still having the problem in the mornings. I changed fluid out to Redline MT90. Almost seems worse than before. First and second gear are very hard to get into. Once it warms up(few miles down road) shifts flawlessly. Could it be a fluid level problem? I put the recommended in...

    Thanks,
    Trask

    wow this is an old post! haha. REVIVE.
     
  6. Mar 7, 2017 at 8:52 PM
    #26
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Usually when it's cold I let it "fall" into the gear when shifting, basically equivalent to rev matching. As the RPMs drop between shifts, just give it a little pressure and it'll drop into place when the tranny and engine speed sync up. Plus it's easier on the synchros
     
    Das it mang and cruiserguy like this.
  7. Mar 7, 2017 at 10:47 PM
    #27
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    If your clutch master cylinder as well as slave cylinder fluid is black , its a sign of the internal seals wearing . Brake fluid in the clutch master also oxidizes over time .
    Hows that shifter bushing ? A very common problem is the shifter bushing .
    Marlin Crawler . Guys are saying this bushing is much stronger than the factory bushing . Also stands to reason that if your changing the bushing , you might as well change the transmission fluid and transfer case if 4X4 . It,s so much easier filling the transmission through the shifter hole and it only uses 2.3 quarts . This is going to save you from trying to use a flimsy pump underneath the truck .
    https://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-sockets
     
    750ml likes this.
  8. Mar 9, 2017 at 8:30 AM
    #28
    Trask97140

    Trask97140 New Member

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    Thanks, Appreciated. Everything seems clear and in good shape. Ill just make a few slow and easy shifts in the mornings.
     
  9. Mar 9, 2017 at 8:35 AM
    #29
    robupstateny

    robupstateny Well-Known Member

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    Do you let the truck warm up at all? or just jump in and go? I found letting it warm up for a few mins on a cold morning helps a great deal. Also just changed to the MT-90, first trip out WHAT a difference already. Going to try to change the front diff today, only thing left on fluids.
     
  10. Mar 9, 2017 at 10:52 AM
    #30
    Taco_4x4_Guy_

    Taco_4x4_Guy_ Member

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    It is always a good idea to let your truck warm up in the morning regardless. I start mine up about 5 minutes before I leave every morning (or any time I start it after it has been sitting for a long period of time).
     
  11. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:27 AM
    #31
    Trask97140

    Trask97140 New Member

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    Yea ive never given myself that time in the morning unless my windows are frozen over. Ill have to make a mental note to give it 5-10 in the winter months
     
  12. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM
    #32
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    I dunno, there's a lot of info from the experts online saying anymore than 30 seconds is a waste. The old days, yeah carbs needed a few minutes to warm up. But with these modern engines it's just not necessary. At least for the longevity or benefit of the engine, the data just doesn't support the 'warming up for a few minutes' argument. Now, if you like your car toasty, more power to you. Go for it. Just isn't necessary for your engine well being. It'll warm up quicker and more efficiently just letting engine warm up as you drive 'mindfully' until operating temp is reached.
     
    750ml likes this.
  13. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:31 AM
    #33
    robupstateny

    robupstateny Well-Known Member

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    It isn't to warm the interior up, It's to let the fluids in the transmission and such get a chance to get moving and warm up.
     
  14. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:33 AM
    #34
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    In that case, anything more than 30 seconds is unnecessary.
     
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  15. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:37 AM
    #35
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure if the tranny will warm up if it's just sitting. I always thought you had to get moving to get the gears moving and warm. Unless we are talking about residual heat from the engine or something
     
  16. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:43 AM
    #36
    cruiserguy

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    It does need to be moving to warm up the transmission fluid. It won't pump unless moving, if automatic, or won't splash unless moving, if manual.
     
  17. Mar 9, 2017 at 11:59 AM
    #37
    robupstateny

    robupstateny Well-Known Member

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    OK seems I know nothing about the subject so I'll leave you all to argue this amongst yourselves
     
  18. Oct 31, 2020 at 1:10 PM
    #38
    Dufus

    Dufus Well-Known Member

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    Old post, but at least I'm searching for answers right? Anyway, I am having the same trouble trying to shift into gears on cold days with my truck. Takes a lot of warming up for it to start shifting normally. Going to try and replace the transmission fluid (with synthetic), differentials and transfer case as I suspect it probably has never been done before on this truck. Crossing fingers and hoping it helps. I will update with results. Happy Halloween!
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  19. Nov 1, 2020 at 4:04 AM
    #39
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    This is a strange problem I have ever yet to see even using 85/140 for years in my W-56 transmissions and transfer cases at such warm temperatures when I gets down to zero F for a few days things were a little stiff.

    Then my clutch hydraulics and gear oil was fresh and shifter bushings done.

    Might be a combination of all 3 making the cool weather shifting harder then normal.

    Over the years I have seen a few times so much moisture in gear boxes they froze talk about hard shifting .
     
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  20. Nov 1, 2020 at 5:15 AM
    #40
    hogeyphenogey

    hogeyphenogey Back in a Tacoma

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    I bought my truck recently and on the first cold morning it wouldn’t shift either. I finally got it to go and went to work. The guy in my shop changed out my transmission fluid and clutch fluid with regular OEM fluids. Works perfectly now. There’s still some black sediment in my clutch fluid so I plan on using a turkey baster to suck it out from the top where it’s floating around and not let it get so low that it needs to be bled. But otherwise it’s a 1000% difference than initial driving
     
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