COMAtized's Tacoma- 2uz v8 swap

Shew.... First, are you capable of reading and fully understanding wiring diagrams? 1100$ seems a bit high. Have you looked on car-part. Com?

 

I have 2 electricians ready to help so I think reading a diagram shouldn't be an issue between the 3 of us. And no I haven't looked at car-part.com I will have to check that out

 

It's a fair amount of work, but do able. Full disclosure, the 2uz is not really a huge power house, and very limited aftermarket support for more HP. The only real real HP upgrade is the SC, but then you run into short block reliability issues. However, 240hp and 310ft lbs is fun in a light duty truck. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask.

 

Thanks man. I'm going to pull out my 4 cylinder and find out if I can rebuild it. If not I will be getting back to you

 

Your truck is badass. Ive been lurking for a while before i joined. Been following your build.
How did you mate the multimode transfer case to the transmission? Ive been contemplating doing a 1uz vvti swap into my 99 tacoma, and i also wanted to use the multi mode case. But ive seen that the tail housing on the A650e wont work with it because it has some additional parts in the tail housing. Did you run into anything similar with the A750?

 

Currently I am still running the 5 speed and its Tcase.






In one of my previous posts you can see that 3 of the bolts don't line up. One will likely work with maybe 5 minutes worth of file work. The other two will need more attention. I had planned to weld a plate into the tail housing of the a750, and using one of the bolt holes. The other is needs to be threaded into the transfer case. This will not be possible since the tail housing will be in the way. I had planned to see how it looked and felt with out the use of one bolt. If I felt the need for the bolt, then I was going to fab up some sort of brace that used the rubber mount thingy's holes on the rear of the tcase.

Also, the input coupler on the older tcase is a bit thinner walled than the newer a750 tcase. You have two options. 1, find a a750 tcase coupler and swap it onto the multi mode case. Or replace the bearing in the a750 tail housing with one from an a340. You will also need the a340 oil seal too.

I recently swapped in a lower mileage motor and a new clutch disc. The new engine idles way smoother, runs a bit cooler, and has yet to stall when I push the clutch in at speeds. The new dual friction clutch disc is holding up great. I am really starting to like the 5 speed now.

For now I am putting the auto transmission on the back burner. My next round of mods will be Chevy 63 rear leafs, and an ASIC intake from a vvt-i 4.0.



BTW, if you do go with a 4.0, get the vvti. You will thank me later.

 

Definitely gonna get the vvti. Plus i dont have much of a choice, i live in Cali, so the engine has to be same year or newer. Guess ill just have to get some kind of adapter built. How is the multimode treating you? Is it better than a regular transfer case? Have you run into any situation where the AWD mode was usefull enough to make it worth the hassle of putting it in?

 

My bad, just read your reply again and realized you arent using the multimode yet. Had seen the video again and got me excited. Cant wait ro see what you do with it.

 

I really want to put it in, but I will have to rework my exhaust, and have my driveshaft reworked also. I planning to switch to a single piece shaft, vs the two I currently have. I'm trying to decide if I really want the auto, or not. And since the r150 is shorter than the a750 id have to redo the exhaust and drive shaft twice if i did the tcase and trans seperate....I'm torn 50/50. City driving and just everyday motoring would be much nicer with the auto. On the flip side, the 5 speed is great off-road, and not to mention gear jamming a 5 speed, v8 Tacoma is great too!. One down side is the fact I have lost cruise control since the ECU never sees "drive". Also, since the auto is longer than the manual, I am a bit worried that the transfer case shift will be too far back and not come through the current hole in my floor.

 

Ive seen similar issues on the forums when poeple do a 5speed swap on the 1uz vvti. Some have gotten around it by pulling out the solenoids and leaving them connected, then put a switch to change from park to drive to trick the ecu and be able to start the car and then drive it. Maybe there is a similar solution for you?
By the way, what did you do with your automatic transmission?

 

I've got it wired up so I don't get any codes. Wiring it in Drive would cause more checks and that would result in codes.

I sold the a340 that came in my truck years ago. The a750 is sitting in my shed with the multi mode case.

 

Made a trip to Harlan KY and did I bit of wheeling. I managed to mangle my transmission cross member, and break the top and bottom wraps off my left coilover spring.

I've had the left side cranked up pretty good trying to make up for the famous "Taco lean" and the extra weight of the v8. I'm guessing that, not having a swaybar, and really bouncing around finally took its toll.

Anywho, the spring was completely captured into the coilover assembly, and I didn't have a spare... So, we got the spring to sit back up straight, and drove it the 6 1/2 hrs home.

Kinda hard to believe, but you could not tell the coil was broken. The ducktape was pretty much just for fun. "If you can duck it, Fack it."

 

How I missed this build I don't know, well done..





Do you think the added weight fatigued the coil ??

 

I think wheeling was 90% of the cause.

 

Well, I have been making headway on my truck. I'm currently working on a few different things all at once. To name a few, replacing my DPDT relay that runs my elocker with the OEM ECU, finally wiring up my power mirrors, replacing my broken coil spring with newer, heavier weight springs. I'm probably going to reboot my CVs, and change my LCA bushings wile it's all apart too. Along with that I dentes my gas tank and my fuel gauge was reading full all the time, so I'll swap out the level sensor.

So, here are some pictures.

Broken 600# coil, next to 650# coil





I picked up a used sending unit off eBay for 50$. It came out of a 99 Tacoma also. You can see that my sending unit is bent from the tank being mashed in. I decided to bend my sender back into place because I didn't want to modify the new one for the V8 pump, and relocated fuel filter... You can also see that the new unit has the low fuel light sensor. I swapped that onto my old sender.








Here you can see how.shallow my tank had become.



High dollar tank deepener tool 3000...



Tank back to normal.



And my fuel filter relocation. Sine I had a 4cyl before, the filter was on the block. I was going to mount it under the cab like the v6 Tacomas, but there is a Cat in the way now.. This was the easiest way I could find. This has worked well for a few years now..

 

Did your tank have the OEM "skid" on it?

 

Yea, I'm still running the OEM rock alarm haha. I got high centered and was drug across it...

 

I am thinking of plating mine and welding it to the stock skid. I figure it should at least keep it from bending in on sharper rocks.

 

I had thought about it, and I might go on and do it now. Haha.

 

I removed the bushings with the bolt stuck in it. The rubber was already torn completely, so all I had to do was push the inner sleeve out. I used a vice, a bolt, and a socket.





Next, I used a sawsal to cut the out sleeve. I cut the sleeve by the thickest part, right under the shock body. Once the cut was made, the out sleeve fell right out.



You can see that I did cut the edges of the eye a little, but I doubt it will ever be an issue.





Hopefully Brown Santa will bring the new bushings tomorrow or the next day and I can use my vice to press the new bushings in.


Also, I got both new coils installed. I'll turn the adjusters to halfway as my starting point.