Commercial shells, especially on DCSB?

Thought I would share some photos of my shell build. Primary reason for build is for solar and 12V DC electronics. (Fridge, LED Light, Fantastic Fan and USB ports and monitoring panel) I will still be building a smaller width box for the left side and a sliding platform between the two boxes for sleeping if needed.

Start of the build. Using 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" aluminum angle (1/8" thickness) to support the side of the bench or box on the sides.



Base to support the batteries. Also added end brackets to tie the batteries down securely but not shown in picture. Also shown is aluminum angle riveted to the side of the bed for supporting the storage box




Sorry another repeat picture of the box with the fridge DC port installed. Below is also the Blue Sea Fuse Block and Battery Disconnect Switch shown.



Using Home Depot indoor/outdoor carpeting. Gluing and stapling to the plywood.



Gluing the carpet. Batteries are just being used as a weight to help adhere the carpeting. Blue Sea Fuse Block and Battery Disconnect Switch also shown. Round vent holes are for venting the battery area. Even though these are AGM batteries, the mfg. still recommends venting. I also drilled a 3" hole in the truck bed with a hole saw for a round vent. The vent also has a screen on it and allows air to the outside of the truck.



Almost finished storage box with the exception of still needing to carpet the top lid that will fill in the opening shown on top.


Another view


Strange shot looking down through the top opening to the twin AGM batteries



Built a frame to hold the flexible solar panel using the same aluminum angle. This will mount to the roof rack of the shell. Two 100 watt panels

 

Wow...This is a great job...really looking forward for advancement moving forward...How are you fastening the aluminum angles?

 

I used metal rivets. Just drilled a small hole in the aluminum in the center length of the angle and then riveted to the bed wall. I then placed my level on the angle and added the rest of the rivets. Went really fast. The rivets seem to hold well in the T acoma bed.

 

I'm particularly interested in your build as its the closest as mine will be...ARE commercial wedge with barn doors...sleeping bunk on one side, counter on the other, with sink, burner top, with the isle in the center. Solar, fridge, fan, power ports, TV. Having a 4 cyl A/T weight will be the primary build factor, using as much aluminum as possible, and wood sparingly. Prior, I will lift the bed from the frame & spray foam insulation on the outside of the composite bed...There is nothing more miserable than being cold in your space...Yet to figure out heating...diesel heater seems to be an overkill in such a confined space, but propane heaters aren't ideal either ....Lots to consider in 24 sq.ft. & keeping it all under 1000 lbs.......

 

Did a couple trips to Death Valley and the surrounding areas recently...

 

Yes, the hard part is fitting everything together within 24 Sq. ft. Where will you be camping? We usually camp down to about 30 degree's but not lower so we have got by with just very warm sleeping bags. Keep us posted on your build too!

 

My goal....My trip will start at Times Square in NYC, starting point of the Lincoln Highway, through the Lincoln Tunnel, into NJ, PA following the Lincoln Highway route to Ill. I have yet to decide to continue on the Lincoln Highway or Rt.66. Ending up in CA & taking the southern route back. At some point Alaska is another goal, with the Arctic Circle,& maybe beyond..
Can't leave anything to chance, thus insulating the composite bed is a must, & this has to be done before the cap/topper goes on, so the bed can be lifted off the chassis. I'm going with an ARE commercial wedge top, with barn doors with an aluminum rack, which will extend partially above the cab. I'm leaning towards the fabric option for the interior of the cap, with the addition of my own insulation. I can't overstress the point of comfort either in sleeping, or time spent inside due to inclimate weather...thus my heating source can be modest, but there has to be some sort of heat.....Cooling is an entirely another issue...My travels will take me to more cold area's than hot...The truck itself, no major mods other than heavier springs in the rear, an Aluminess rear bumper to mount Rotopax's, outdoor shower,(on rack) rear awning, perhaps a standup tent. Another must, have are security camera's (4 on the rack) to see what's going on outside from with-in...with a motion detector light for the rear.... Some nights will be in Wal-Mart parking lots, others in the wilderness....Security, protection & comfort is on top of the list... Will start posting pics once project begins......

 

Looking forward to seeing the progress, will have a similar build going on starting a couple weeks.

 

The pics are from last week. The Kodiak Canvas Tent does well in winds. Lots of videos on YT about four season canvas tents.

In the first two photos I was at the Eureka Dunes Dry Camp. It is one of several no-fee to camp areas within the park. The other two photos are at different locations near Eureka and Deep Springs Valleys.

 

95% completed. It was fun building it.

LED lighting in the shell and also in the toolbox area accessed from the exterior. Monitor panel that shows battery voltage and percentage along with USB ports and a 12 Cigarette port. Renogy Solar panels (2 X 100 watt), Renogy MPPT Controller with 2 105ah batteries. Battery Disconnect Switch, Blue Sea Fuse Block for 12V accessories, 12V DC fridge port and a battery charger anderson connector port. Reflectix panel is for rear window when needed.

 

What are you guys using for the insulation? Is it styrofoam?

 

Yup, just 1” styrofoam.

 

Did you ever cover yours with carpet?

 

Shower board from Home Depot.

 

Got a pic? I didnt see any in your posts.

 

I don't have any at the moment but it looks similar to this picture.

 

Some updates to the rig! Solar, toytec lift, regear, roof rack, etc...

 

I'm new to TW so I'm not sure the etiquette on cold threads but hope to get some help.
I'm ordering an ARE DUC canopy for my 2017 and thinking the 23 inch but it will stick up above the cab a little plus the ladder rack. I'm curious if anyone has experience with the impact it might have on fuel economy?
Maybe the 20" option being flush with the cab would be better...
Currently using a fiberglass canopy that's cab height and the weight hasn't hurt my mileage. The aluminum ones weighs less but will give more drag. Highway speeds for road trips is a concern but when camping (etc) likely the benefits are worth the cost but I do a lot of long distance driving just in general.
thanks gang

 

Many factors to consider regarding wind drag/fuel economy...23"vs 20"....However the disadvantage of fiberglass vs aluminum is the weight factor which I feel is more of an issue than the 3 extra inches....A fiberglass cap is the weight in itself, I have driven full size pickups with 8 cylinders, that had an 8ft. fiberglass cap and felt the weight factor which was considerable.....On my Taco I went with the 23" DCU & could not calculate the fuel economy loss, as the weight of the aluminum cap also has to be considered, along with wind drag...My decision to go with the 23" was based on my 'living requirements' while inside the cap...I certainly would not be happy with the 20" as even the 23" leaves a bit to be desired....Everything is a compromise..