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Complete system overhaul- please review design! :)

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Tolian, May 23, 2013.

  1. May 23, 2013 at 3:39 PM
    #1
    Tolian

    Tolian [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2013
    Member:
    #103428
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    18
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    Male
    NorCal
    Vehicle:
    '13 Sport Dbl Long
    So I’m replacing the entire stock system in my new truck (2013 DC, non-JBL), and I am doing it myself as opposed to having a shop do it and charge me an exorbitant amount of money for the install. I’ve installed systems in previous vehicles so I’m not too worried/intimidated by the project, but this will be my first multi-amp install so I wanted to get a second opinion from some of our audio/electronics experts.

    I’ve purchased the following items to install:
    Kenwood Excelon X597, with a Scoche dash kit
    Alpine SPS-610C 6 ½” Components for the front doors
    Alpine SPS-610 6 ½” Coaxials for the read doors
    Alpine MRP-F300 4x50 @ 4 ohms (installed behind rear driver’s side seat)
    TBD Subwoofer amp to be purchased at a later date (will not exceed 500-750 watts power though)
    Rockford Fosgate RFD4 - 1/0 in 4/8 AWG out distribution block (installed next to amp)

    My plan is to install the wiring as shown below (sorry for the poor handwriting lol, it’s a failing of mine):
    [​IMG]
    (Side note- I purchased my wiring from KnuKoncepts after looking around a little and reading some user reviews on Amazon/etc. May or may not be the best stuff out there, and I’m sure everyone has a personal favorite, but this is the brand I ended up going with. I also ended up going deliberately overboard on the wire gauges for safety.)

    To run from the battery to the distribution block I’m planning on using 1/0 gauge power wire, with an in-line 150A fuse installed within about a foot or less of the battery. From there I plan on running a 4 AWG power wire to the amp, with another in-line fuse installed just after the block, this one an 80A. Coming out of the amp is another 4 AWG wire, going to ground on the chassis. My first idea is where the bottom driver side rear-passenger shoulder harness is attached to the chassis, as it looks to be a nice clean connection there.

    Eventually I will purchase the second amp and sub(s) and run another 4 AWG power wire out of the distribution block to it, which is why I'm currently installing such a heavy wire from the battery so I don't have to re-wire later. I’m considering buying a second block at that point and running the two 4 AWG grounds to it and outputting a single 1/0 ground to chassis wire, but that’s down the road some.

    Edit- Finally found the info on the current capacity for my power wires on the12volt.com, and they far exceed the fuses I've chosen so there should be little to no chance of the wires getting to the point where they overheat and/or catch fire. We'll see how the install goes! Will post pics.

    Thanks for taking the time to read, and for any input! J

    Tolian
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  2. May 27, 2013 at 8:40 PM
    #2
    Riverdog

    Riverdog Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Collin
    Portland, OR
    Vehicle:
    '05 Double Cab PreRunner
    I think it looks good. The only thing I would have done differently is to use a fused distribution block rather than a distribution block and an in-line fuse. That's just my preference though. Either way will work the same. And adding another distribution block later on for the ground wires will make it look nice and clean. You might consider running the audio cables for the second amp now, even though you don't have that amp yet. It will save you lots of time in the future. ;) Good luck with the install!
     
  3. May 28, 2013 at 12:32 PM
    #3
    Operator313

    Operator313 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Dave
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    12 TSS Prerunner SR5
    Maxtrac Spindles 2 inch blocks on 1.5 AAl's (You jelly?) Kicker L78 Kicker 300.1 BLHM Color scratched grill
    Knukoncepts puts out a good product I have used them in a few of my vehicles. I would only add to use plenty of sound deadening, newer Tacos seem to rattle really bad at around 90-100hz
     
  4. May 29, 2013 at 12:42 AM
    #4
    Tolian

    Tolian [OP] Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2013
    Member:
    #103428
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    NorCal
    Vehicle:
    '13 Sport Dbl Long
    Sound deadening is definitely in the cards at a future date. Have heard too many people espouse it to have any doubts about getting it. But... I may have also bought a full sub setup since my first post and not told the wifey about it (yet!) so spending another $1-200 on deadening is gonna have to wait lol.

    Picked up an IDQ10 v3 that I am putting in a Mr Marv box, with an Alpine MRV-M500 to push it. Should sound pretty good from what I've read. Curious if it'll hit harder than the Jl 12w3 I have in a sealed box in my IS, since that only gets 300 watts.
     
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