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Completely eliminate JBL system

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by 81jimenez, Nov 29, 2018.

  1. Nov 29, 2018 at 4:42 AM
    #1
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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    Help needed. I want to completely eliminate my Jbl system? (amp, head unit) from my 2014 Tacoma. What is needed to make this happen? Which wire harness is needed, other adapters? Would I loose any other functionality that is not directly related to my audio system (door chime,alarm)by eliminating the Jbl amp. ( I want to install a Alpine ILX-107)
     
  2. Nov 29, 2018 at 9:42 AM
    #2
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    Audio: Focal PC165, Focal KX2, JL VX800/8i, Pioneer AVIC-8200.
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2018
  3. Nov 29, 2018 at 10:34 AM
    #3
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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    Great thread. Thank you. So the Maestro TO1 harness will connect directly to the stock wiring harness - head unit harness, which will allow me to completely eliminate my JBL factory amp/HU and run my system off of the aftermarket HU?
     
  4. Nov 29, 2018 at 10:53 AM
    #4
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    The Maestro will integrate the steering controls, idatalink, factory AUX. The T01 harness has a few different configurations you can use if you want to keep stock head unit or stock amp, but it also supports replacement. If you do what I did you'll need to run RCA's from head unit to amp and speaker wires from amp to speakers unless you don't want to hack up the JBL amp harness in the back of the cab.
     
  5. Nov 29, 2018 at 12:28 PM
    #5
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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    I was planning on running new speaker wire and RCA cables to my after market amps so the T01 looks like it’s going to be a perfect fit in my system. Do you have any suggestions on what I should use to retain my factory backup camera?
     
  6. Nov 29, 2018 at 12:43 PM
    #6
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma 1 Bar Club

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    Everything needs to go. The sub is an optional keep if you get the right amp for it as previously mentioned. The OE wiring can be retained but you will most likely have to cut plugs, and either butt connect or solder the new wiring that is required to run the amp in its place.

    Don't try to shortcut this, the amp controls the volume on the OE headunit so if you just try ditching the amp and keeping the OE headunit you will be stuck with a permanent volume, not even the knob on the headunit will be able to move it up and down. You will at which point be forced to convert everything anyways, so make sure when you are ready to convert that you have the funds and the means of doing so, because the way this stereo is designed one piece of hardware supplements the other.

    Here is a quick and dirty list of items requiring replacement
    - headunit
    - Steering wheel control module is recommended to retain steering wheel controls
    - Amplifier of your choice, 4 channel minimum (4 channel is what I run)
    - All speakers and both tweeters in the front (rear door speakers optional as they are electrically spliced into the subwoofer channel and will not sound very good even after replacement)
    - All required JBL integration modules that will go behind the radio cavity In the dash
    - And finally subwoofer (optional) if wanting to switch to SVC which I advise, as DVC overcomplicated things and also narrows your amplifier choices as well as makes the purchase of a new sub more expensive then it has to be.

    I hope this helps.
     
  7. Nov 29, 2018 at 1:30 PM
    #7
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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    My JBl amp and HU are the last items to go from my JBL set up. I am currently running new speakers, amps and a sub. I’m tapped into the rear jbl signal for my speakers/aftermarket amp and the JBL sub signal for my Sub/aftermarket amp. The only reason that I left the JBL amp/HU in place was because I didn’t know how to eliminate it from my system. Now I do. Thanks alot for your help!
     
    xxTacocaTxx likes this.
  8. Nov 29, 2018 at 1:54 PM
    #8
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    Audio: Focal PC165, Focal KX2, JL VX800/8i, Pioneer AVIC-8200.
    I didn't integrate the factory camera at all. I was having issues fitting everything into the dash so I bought a new 12v camera which allowed me to pick up some extra space behind the head unit. Problem I had with harness to integrate the factory camera was that it was bulky and the RCA was too short for my limited patience.

    I believe the factory camera uses 6 volts so you'll need some kind of step down regulator to give the camera the proper power if you decide to keep the OEM camera.

    I would power the camera with accessory power so you can get an anytime cam.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2018
  9. Nov 29, 2018 at 3:10 PM
    #9
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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    Thanks. I like the anytime camera idea. I’m going to give that a shot.
     
  10. Nov 29, 2018 at 3:29 PM
    #10
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    Make sure you step down the voltage using a regulator. Somebody sells one specifically for the OEM camera integration which is what I would go for.
     
  11. Nov 29, 2018 at 6:02 PM
    #11
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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  12. Nov 30, 2018 at 4:48 AM
    #12
    81jimenez

    81jimenez [OP] Member

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    Which dash install kit are you using? Have you had any issues with it? I’ve read that people have had issues with the Metra 95-8235b popping out from up top. I’m looking at the Metra 95-8235b and the Scosche TA2111B. What are you thoughts?
     
  13. Dec 1, 2018 at 1:19 AM
    #13
    lightning78

    lightning78 Active Member

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    I was able to completely eliminate my jbl amp by replacing my headunit and connecting my door speakers to the head unit speaker outputs which will also give you the freedom to run an aftermarket amp to your 8" sub and at that time years ago (my system has vastly evolved lol) i replaced the stock 8" sub with a pioneer ts shallow 8" sub and mounted it in the oem box stuffed with poly fill.

    I did replace ALL of my OEM door speakers with MUCH better ones and ran all new wire to them connected to my ppi a1000.4 4 chammel amp i mounted inside my center console on the back wall and heat has not been an issue what so ever. I just went around the harness and connected the speaker wires directly to the deck and now that im thinking about it, I dont know if this info will help but i hope it does because getting rid of that JBL amp was the BEST thing I ever did to my system....

    Speaking of which I have an OEM Jbl amp for sale out of a 2007 Tacoma Double cab as well as a 6 disc changer OEM head unit that probably needs to go with it. The 8" box and sub were sold years ago and I have a PAC integration box for those wanting to keep their jbl amp and install an aftermarket head unit.

    Here is a pic of my ppi amp mounted to the back wall of my center console if anyone is thinking about it bec its a great spot for a 4 channel amp to power your door speakers all wires fit amd were ran under the center area by the shifter and there are lots of good grounding locations.

    Good luck getting rid of the JBL amp youll be glad you did i just did it my way bec i didnt want to use that 17 foot long amp isolation harness sold by metra.

    20181201_011635.jpg
     
    TacoTuesday!! and 81jimenez [OP] like this.

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