Comprehensive 5-lug 2nd gen lowering info.

Hi All,

I recently installed a 3rd gen tacoma 4 pack leaf spring onto my 5 lug x runner. Unfortunately, the drop wasn't that significant.
Before:
Driver rear- 31-3/8"
Passenger rear- 31-1/8"

After:
Before:
Driver rear- 31-3/16"
Passenger rear- 31-1/16"

The drop was about an eighth of a inch. There was quite a difference in the 3 pack and 4 pack leafs visually when put side by side but didn't achieve the drop I was hoping for. Other factors that I thought that might affect the drop was the traction bar needed to be adjusted or sway bars having it the stiffest setting. Not entirely sure.
Does anyone have recommendations on other options to lower the rear of the truck? Has anyone done a shackle flip or arching of leafs? I am considering 1" blocks since I have a traction bar to combat axle wrap.
Let me know your thoughts.

 

The 3rd gen suspension is actually commonly used for a mild lift on 2nd gen 4x4s so I suspect that's why you didn't get much drop for the leaf springs. You want 2nd gen leaves.

 

Appreciate the feedback. I'll look into some 2nd gen leafs but didn't hurt to try when the 3rd gens were only $80. Looking to get 2 inch drop in the rear without going blocks even though I haven't had much experience with them. Worried if blocks hurt handling performance when driving up the canyons.

 

The 4x4 leafs are used for dropping 2wd because we're axle over spring instead of axle under. The extra thickness acts as a drop spacer.

That being said, they do have more arch from what I've seen so it would make sense that they don't provide as much "drop" overall.

The big difference here between you and the rest of the trucks in this thread is that you've got an x-runner. It had lower rear suspension from factory so you will see limited results from this swap.

 

Hmmm…
You just confirmed what I heard about X-runner, Pre-runner and 4x4 springs. Just curious what ones/springs are the stiffest in your opinion. Also the 1 or 1.5” blocks are a good choice. I used extruded aluminum blocks for the weight then had them powder coated for corrosion. Purchased plated U-bolts for corrosion also.

@BananaMan Sir
Is there any chance you can take photos/pictures showing straight down the side/s of your truck and pull a wheel to look for an offset? Also how did you roll the bedside with the two braces and the plastic liner?
I started to but I figured pretty quickly that I would have to make new braces! Or the bedside would flop all over the place. Might need a bit more bite with the LS Swap. Was thinking 18x9.5 w/ 45et & 275/45 rubber.

Thanks in advance for your time and trouble…

 

Blocks won't hurt performance. You will need a block to get 2 inches of drop.

 

@hayrider2.0
I can get you the pictures of the leaf springs I installed with the model number but will have to be when I get to a computer. The 3rd gen leaf springs are about 30-40% stiffer but not anything extreme. I honestly was surprised on how well it soaked up dips in the road.


@BananaMan any recommendations for loweing blocks and do you think it will be fine to run with sways/traction bar?

 

I can't speak to the traction bar, as I don't run one on my truck currently. Sway bar *should* be fine, but as with everything in the automotive world your experience may vary. I'm running 4 leaf pack in my truck currently, along with 3 in steel straight blocks (no taper to them) I actually purchased the blocks from @hayrider2.0 years ago, so I don't know if he remembers where they're from. I've definitely put them through their paces!

 

Both of my bed sides are pretty ugly from the previous owner going too aggressive with the initial drop/stance on the truck. Inner fender lining is gone, both rear braces are removed. When I'm racing they just kinda flop, and the axle shifting side to side keeps me from rubbing sidewall when the body rolls. I know the wheels are 18x10.5 with +35mm, and my 295/40's are all this truck can fit without some more fender mods.

 

Hmmm…
Purchased them for the shipping cost and they were definitely heavy duty DJM welded steel blocks or definitely over built. Otherwise they been going for scrap metal. lol…
These fairly light weight trucks don’t need that much over built blocks. I’m sure DJM uses the same blocks for a Toyota or a 1 Ton Ford, Dodge or Chevy…
I used extruded aluminum blocks for the little bit of weight savings. Excuse the anti-seize on the exhaust, that stuff gets everywhere…I was coating the stainless V-ban clamps.

 

Hmmm…
I found some drag wheels that were 17x10 with a 50et. But I definitely don’t want to run a drag tire as I’m sure I’ll be breaking something in the 3.31 8.4 differential.

My apologies I didn’t see this before…
I *believe* my 6 lug rear springs are from a 2nd. Gen. And truthfully I understand that the rear 2nd & 3rd gen. rear springs were the same after the recall of the second gen. springs. Best bet is look up the updated part numbers for a 2015 & a later model 6 lug. As long as they have the same package. Only the part number would tell you that.

 

@BananaMan & @hayrider2.0
Appreciate the info. You guys run alum or steel blocks? I might just bite the bullet and order the 2" blocks. However, I don't know where to source from like DJM or Belltech. Lastly, what shocks are you guys running? My understanding is that a lot of us lowered tacos either run Qa1s or Vikings?

@hayrider2.0
I see that you fabricated your own coilovers. How do you like them and what kind of driving do you do. Im located in southern cali so I do take the truck to Angeles crest and it handles great but want better.

@hayrider2.0
My bad, I see you answered someone already on your experience with the coilovers. Any recommendations on lowering the fronts? I someday plan to put an l92 with t56 or ls3 with tr6060 if I come across a deal. But until then, will settle with the 4.0.

 

@Slowtaco97 ,
Well being you have a X-runner with the stiffer front OE springs and if you go to a aluminum LS the aluminum LS is probably almost as light as the 4.0L 1GR but I really don’t know. But what I do know is I tried a set of factory X-runner springs with the kit that SOS sells and I’m still using the bottom mounts / spring perch’s. They coil-bind the bottom of the spring or shorten the spring to make the spring stiffer! I had them in a 15 SR-5 Access Cab with a iron block 2TR with a POS Rotrex supercharger and a steel tool box at the front of the bed.
And out of all the vehicles I have ever owned this was the stiffest ride I have ever owned. So my advice is if you know a welder that can fabricate some upper shock mount go for a 2.5” x 12” coil-over setup or do what I now have. I can PM you my number and I can explain better. Before I was hayrider2.0 I was on here as Hayrider and somewhere I explained more detail about the front and rear shocks.
Be careful on the rear shocks you purchase because bottoming out a shock will kill it! I like the Viking’s because they have more lengths to pick from. It’s kind of a pain to adjust but they go from the shock is blown out / not working to who welded in a steel poll to the shock mounts!
I would be happy to help with what little I know from trial and error mostly errors!!!


Also for the front if you only want to go about an 1” to 2” lower than you are now you can get away with just the upper DJM mounts. But do yourself a favor if you buy the DJM mounts contact Kathy at DJM and either buy their upper ball joints or have Amazon deliver ball joints to them. Take my advice because I have taken their upper arms to shops to have ball joints pressed in and have wasted 3 ball joints. The holes can be not so round and DJM can clean up the holes before pressing them in. I’ve purchased 3 sets of upper control arms from DJM. Just be nice to Kathy and she will press them in for NC. She really is nice if you start off on the right side of her.

 

What bump stops are you using up front? I had a pair of the energy suspension ones but the thread pitch didn’t match.

 

@hayrider2.0
Appreciate the insight. Can you share the viking shocks you're running and your settings? I'm looking at 2.5" pro comp tapered blocks that I saw some x runner have on at XRunderground.
As for fronts, worried on going to low and going out of spec for alignment. Want to follow the coilover setup but unfortunately we don't have much support for our trucks.

 

Look at the picture of the kit. The stops with the hole in the center. I had a part number now I can’t find it. The funny thing is that they say don’t use it as a bump stop. The hard part was finding the flat allen head bolt it’s either a 8mm or 10mm I need to mic the bolt.

https://sosperformance.com/products/tr1520-15-front-2-rear-lowering-kit-fits-xrunner-2005-2014

I would consider the U-bolts and blocks in the above link. Some and some don’t have drive line vibrations with tapered blocks. There’s all kinds of blocks on FleBay and Amazon. I need to know more about the suspension before I can recommend the shocks and lengths!

Also so good information on coil-overs here!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5lug-coilovers.541417/

And one last thing I’m using Viking C208 front shocks. If you use the standard coil-over 2.5” springs I would use the 12” springs but I really doesn’t matter because this photo below is with 10” springs.

 

@hayrider2.0
Currently stock height for my x runner. Only changed the 3 pack leaf springs so not much of a drop. I also have the Xii sways and urd traction bar. Will for sure be purchasing lowering blocks that are either 2" or 2.5". Want to get the shocks ready so won't have a harsh ride.

 

When you install the blocks are you going to have notches?
The sway bar makes absolutely no difference in ride height IDK about the traction bar!

 

Will not be going for notches. Traction bar would just have to be adjusted in regards to its tension.

 

Then stay with the shortest block possible‼️ I don’t care what anyone says when you lose travel you must really increase the spring rate/s.
It’s like a T-shirt I saw. ( It’s not the fall that hurts, it’s the sudden Stop! ) then under that was a picture of a parachute…